- Thread starter Gun guru
- Start date
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
I'm not an expert by any means but - At the least you must wait until all pressures are up. all engines act a little different in the cold. My Kubota will go to work as soon as it's running but the Cat loader takes 10 to 15 mins. before it's ready to work.
It is good practive to allow any engine to warm up a few minutes before loading it, especially in cold weather.
I feel comfortable driving out of the barn after a couple of minutes but will not load heavily until the oil and coolant are fully up to temperature.
Hydrostatic transmissions are less forgiving than engines in this regard.
Dean
I feel comfortable driving out of the barn after a couple of minutes but will not load heavily until the oil and coolant are fully up to temperature.
Hydrostatic transmissions are less forgiving than engines in this regard.
Dean
On my Kubota M6800, which is what I most often use in the winter, the operators manual calls for a 20 minute warm up period in temps below 5F (I think) to get the hydraulic fluid warmed up. I always use the mfg block heater to warm up the engine real good and then I use a starter/charger to boost the electrical system. The engine starts like it's summertime that way. But if I push the warm up time on the hydraulics sometimes they'll be a little sluggish until about 20 min goes by. I'm talking 10 below zero or so. That's just the way it is in spite of that Super UDT fluid being almost as thin as water. You should consult the operators manual to see what the mfg has to say about engine/hyd warmup procedures. For example, the smaller JD tractors are supposed to be run at a mnimum of 1200 rpm for warm up times taking more that just a few minutes to insure proper engine lubrication.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
Our JD4600 has a block heater and I put a magnetic heater on the oil pan if it is very cold,but last week I used it without plugging it in, +25F and it started just fine. If it is below 0F I would rather not start it without preheat. It always starts first revolution, I have never really heard it crank without starting, then I leave it warm up for 5-10 minutes, to answer the original question!
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
A diesel can barely warm it's self up just by idling.
Most of that cold outside air drawn into the engine doesn't participate in combustion. The extra air just absorbs the little bit of heat from the tiny amount of fuel a diesel injects at idle. And the extra air just carries the heat up the exhaust stack.
The engine metal has very little heat remaining to absorb warmth from.
Pre-heat the coolant and oil with electrics.When the engine starts the temp gauge will likely read somewhere above the bottom indication.
Once the engine starts and has oil pressure for a minute. Begin using the engine at 1/2 load until warmed up.
Most of that cold outside air drawn into the engine doesn't participate in combustion. The extra air just absorbs the little bit of heat from the tiny amount of fuel a diesel injects at idle. And the extra air just carries the heat up the exhaust stack.
The engine metal has very little heat remaining to absorb warmth from.
Pre-heat the coolant and oil with electrics.When the engine starts the temp gauge will likely read somewhere above the bottom indication.
Once the engine starts and has oil pressure for a minute. Begin using the engine at 1/2 load until warmed up.
axlehandle
Member
when i was driveing truck i would let it warm up about 20 to 30 mintes on a fast idle then i woul baby it for 10 to 15 miles to let every thing to warm up
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Watch the oil pressure gauge too. High oil pressure indicates "cold" engine oil. Oil that is not completely warmed up is thick and does not circulate and/or lubricate properly, especially to the turbo bearings. Don't "rev" the engine until proper operating temp range and proper oil pressure is obtained.
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
Written on the post on the cab of the JD 4960
In cold weather let it warm up for 2 minutes before
using In really cold weather let it warm up for 4
minutes before using. Just read it yesterday as
I was trying to make the radio work. That said,
I usually start the 4960 then drive a mile to the
pit and start the pump tractor, go back and get the
4960 and get to work. Both probably run about 15
minutes before we go to work.But neither is
putting out any heat thru the heater until they
really start work.
In cold weather let it warm up for 2 minutes before
using In really cold weather let it warm up for 4
minutes before using. Just read it yesterday as
I was trying to make the radio work. That said,
I usually start the 4960 then drive a mile to the
pit and start the pump tractor, go back and get the
4960 and get to work. Both probably run about 15
minutes before we go to work.But neither is
putting out any heat thru the heater until they
really start work.
Diesels don"t warm well by letting them idle. Thats" because unlike a spark ignition engine which has realively contant max gas teperature ,the diesel has a varable gas temperature.
Let it idle for few minutes and slowly place it under load and increase the rpm. The gas temperaure will increase and the engine will soon warm up. Avoid placing it under high load until the temperture is near the normal operating temperature
Let it idle for few minutes and slowly place it under load and increase the rpm. The gas temperaure will increase and the engine will soon warm up. Avoid placing it under high load until the temperture is near the normal operating temperature
guido
Well-known Member
Hello Gun guru,
At idle a diesel is overcooled because of the size of the cooling system.
1 minute is more then adequate, just drive it without putting it under full load until is at least 140 Degrees F. Anytime it sits idle, its not only wasting fuel, but not burning very efficiently.
Guido.
At idle a diesel is overcooled because of the size of the cooling system.
1 minute is more then adequate, just drive it without putting it under full load until is at least 140 Degrees F. Anytime it sits idle, its not only wasting fuel, but not burning very efficiently.
Guido.
The owners manual for my Agrofarm 100 explains the warm up in detail. Start the engine and run for 2-3 minutes, then throttle up to 11-1200 rpm and wait until temp. goes up about half way to normal operating temp. It says never run the engine over 1,600 rpms until it's fully up to temp. So I work it in the cold at around 1400 until it's at normal operating temp.
cadet trooper
Well-known Member
I'm old school on tractors I usually use my ears to listen to the hydraulic pump whine because they really scream when cold even my Cadet super tractor before I push snow. I startem then have a cup of coffee. On the farm the IH 86 series tractors screamed like a wounded banshie for some time until warm then went to normal scream as always :->
My VW TDi (I know not a tractor but still a diesel) manual says not to let idle to warm up.
If I do let it idle for a while it take a LONG time for the temp needle to start to move.
They suggest starting, letting sit for a few seconds so the oil pressure can build up then just take it easy until it warms up. That's generally what I do, although if it's on the chilly side (say around 0F or colder) I do give it a few minutes, the engine seems much happier that way.
200k, it's worked so far.
K
If I do let it idle for a while it take a LONG time for the temp needle to start to move.
They suggest starting, letting sit for a few seconds so the oil pressure can build up then just take it easy until it warms up. That's generally what I do, although if it's on the chilly side (say around 0F or colder) I do give it a few minutes, the engine seems much happier that way.
200k, it's worked so far.
K
Lee in Iowa
Member
According to what I have read an engine wears the worst when its cold and they warm up the slowest when they are idling. So I only let them idle long enough to get good oil pressure and then try to work it easy (no high rpm and no lugging) until the temp gauge starts to move. And make sure you have got a good thermostat so it will warm up to operating temp. And I still believe (contrary to what some say) that your hydraulics will better faster if you tie a lever back and pump oil thru a hyd hose with a male coupler on each end hooked to one of your remotes, even on an open center system.
Guido,
How do you you figure the size of the cooling system has anything to do with it as long as the thermostat is closed?
Buick nailed it. As the typical diesel is NOT throttled to limit to the enigne, at idle there's LOTS of cold air passing through the engine for a tiny amount of fuel.
How do you you figure the size of the cooling system has anything to do with it as long as the thermostat is closed?
Buick nailed it. As the typical diesel is NOT throttled to limit to the enigne, at idle there's LOTS of cold air passing through the engine for a tiny amount of fuel.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known Member
I usually let mine idle long enough for oil pressure to build and then pull them out of the shop. Then just be easy on them until they fully warm up. That usually happens fast as I plug them in for a while before I start them.
I plug mine in for 3-7 hours, depends how fast I get back to the farm. After I start it I let it run at about 1000 rpm for 10 minutes or so. After I clean the barn, I leave it outside for another 20-30 minutes ideling at 600 to 800 rpms while I do other things in the barn. This way all the fluides can get a little warm, than ist off to the field to spread $!*^. Havent had any problems in 20 years doing this.
Old Case 2090 I had said to let warm up for 10 mins at 1400 RPM. The Fords I've got now have cab post stickers which say to not exceed 1400 RPM for 10 min to let the oil warm up.
With that said I usually dont exceed 1400 RPM for 10 mins but I start and use immediately. The skidloader I let warm up at an engine speed just below where the hydraulic oil filter light stays on.
With that said I usually dont exceed 1400 RPM for 10 mins but I start and use immediately. The skidloader I let warm up at an engine speed just below where the hydraulic oil filter light stays on.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy