Think this thing is tough enough to work a little??

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
6ft and advertises for up to 40 hp tractor. Blade is 5mm thick with another 5mm replaceable reinforcement. Hardest work would be smoothing out ruts after things dry out in summer. Price is reasonable for here and has me a little suspicious, but the store is pretty upstanding.

Dave

a8780.jpg
 
It looks a little lite for my use,a good used blade goes for $100,$150 around here,and their 1/4 inch thick,not 3/16.Just my 2 cents
 
With no braces on the back of the blade it won't last 5 minutes on hard soil 10 minutes on soft soil.
Maybe 30 minutes moving sawdust around in the horse barn.
Walt
 
run do not walk away from that flimisly excuse of a blade . I have a farm pride or something like that in a 5' blade and the tractor will break in half before the blade will
 

Not what I wanted to hear, but what I needed to. I'll keep looking for something used, there's one a couple hundred yards from the house, just gotta catch the guy at the right time and convince him he don't need it anymore.

Dave
 
Moldboard on my Allis blade is somewhere between 3/4" and 7/8" thick. It has lasted over 50 years. Wanna take bets on how long that little shaving of metal will last?
 
Dave...trick is to get a blade that will be as wide as your tractors foot print when its angled...i use a 7 footer on a Ford 2000 thats 5' wide and it barely covers tracks.
i agree on blade in picture being pretty much useless...3 point and top frame look ok,but blade will fold up first time you hit anything harder than feathers.
 
With those small blades ,its best to see if it can be turned around when mounted on the tractor. Some time ago we sold a brand that the 6 footer would not clear the rear tires. The 5 footer would.
 
There must have been a typo. That blade might be OK on a garden tractor but not much else. 40 HP would probably turn it into a V plow. Dave
 
Don't you have maybe a used tractor and or implement boneyard place near by you? What you said about finding a used one is probably the best bet. This time of year though, might be harder to come by, maybe not. They get used all year round. Thing is, a good old used one can fetch nearly the cost of a new one, but is more often better and proven quality and performance. Get yourself a used one that you can rustolium, or in my case, not. Course though, takin some of that rust off would make it easier to pivot. One of these days I'm going to break my boot, then my foot. Then again, as they say, if it aint broke don't fix it...until next year, and next year, and...its still rusty, and works very well I might add.

Good luck.

Mark
 
A 24 hp would bend that up real quick. Believe me, I have done it with a blade that looked much stonger than that. Paul
 
If it is priced reasonable, you could weld a 2" or 3", 1/4" thick anlgle iron right at that angle towards the bottom on the back side of the blade across the full length. Weld the angle iron on so the open ends of the angle iron are welded to the blade and the closed end of the angle is pointing back. This would strengthen it up good enough for what you want to use it for. Just a thought.
 
Glad the bite is heal'n.

Speaking of bites, I would not take too big a bite of dirt or gravel with that thing. Might be ok for the drive way, smooth'n up some ruts and such. (Don't try to knock out any stumps with it.)

Dave
 
Looks like a Chessy Tractor supply grader blade, I have a Frontier blade that cost me $430 and is medium duty.
 
It seems that most of the things for sale at the new tractor places, are designed for the newly rich, local "Gentleman Farmer." Those folks have no common sense about adaptability to hard heavy work to be done with their machines. That one with the fancy paint job probably attracts more looks than one with an ordinary appearance.
It is called "Marketing". Bright colors, fancy looks, etc., all sell. Mundane things languish on the store floor and shelves! Any way to direct your gaze to those things is now the norm.
 

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