Disking with the C

Lanse

Well-known Member
Well guys, they picked up the kubota the other day.

Last night i cranked up the C and got a little disking in.

Theres some govenor issue with the tractor. When its not running, you can move the throttle lever back and forth while watching the lever on the barb go back and fourth just fine. With the tractor running, you can move the throttle lever and watch the rod move the thing that goes into the govenor housing, but it has no effect, the crossover arm doesnt move. Any ideas??

And theres some clutch issue with this one to. When you push the clutch all the way in theres some grinding noise, sounds like somethings binding in there.

Enjoy the video!!
Allis C Video
 
Lance,
I enjoyed watching your C at work. Years ago we had a '46 WC, thus I have a soft spot for AC.

A couple thoughts/words of caution regarding your C:
1) Until you get your governor/linkage problem solved, I'd take it pretty easy. It sounded to me like your engine was revving pretty high....Old engines sometimes like to fly apart.

2) Regarding the clutch drag problem. Again, I'd be careful. That clutch and linkage is very simple. Until you are able to determine just what's wrong, again I'd be very careful operating the little tractor. You don't want to damage your gears attempting to shift with a dragging clutch. That clutch and linkage is very simple. Perhaps you could disconnect the linkage and determine if the problem is with the linkage or the clutch itself. Is there an inspection hole you can look in and see what's going on? Listen very carefully around the bell housing area while engaging/disengagung the clutch (rear wheels blocked up or engine not running), you should be able to determine the problem quite easily.

In the case of the governor and clutch, I'd be looking very closely at both systems as both are likely to get worse and cause damage.

3) Coolant leak. You said you were having to add watter every couple rounds. I would not operate the tractor, even a little bit, till that problem is solved. It is SO easy to accidently let the coolant level drop too low and do permanent damage. There is no faster way to destroy an engine than to overheat it or run it low on oil.

I am not trying to insult or "mother" you, but mechanical lessons learned the hard way are usually pretty expensive.


Glenn F.
 
Well ChuckE2009. looks like you have done it again...You should be aware that others judge you by your actions and you are crazy enough to document your actions and display them on You Tube.
Guess I did some stupid things when i was a kid to.... Thank gawd they didn't have video then. Just a few pictures!!
 
Well, it sure held good oil pressure in it. I was really careful to keep adding water at intervals. I kept an eye on everything, and never saw the water temperature climb out of the white area on the gauge.

It sounded to me like it was running the same speed it was when it was at full throttle back when the throttle worked....

But hey, flame away, im more then willing to learn
 
Word of caution Lance you must have never hit a rock or a hard chunk of ground with a row crop. Be very careful one handed driving without using the steering knob ALL the time that sucker hurts when it slaps your wrist. Hard to fix anything with a broken wrist too.
 
I wonder what you are accomplishing by pulling that disc around set at 0 degrees. I see that it isn't knocking down the weeds a lick. It's just riding right around them.
You are just wasting fuel towing that thing around.You would be better off pulling a spike tooth harrow to break up the mess you made with the plow.
If you are goint to try to grow something there you better invest in a sprayer. Your tillage equipment aint going to cut it.
 
Fix your throttle and then the clutch. In all fairness the tractor is not ready to go to the field. The clutch will be much eaiser to adjust when the engine will idle at low speed.
Frank
 
Lanse,
Any time you are running a tractor low on water you are risking harm, adding water to a hot engine is a SURE way to crack the head, BTDT. With all your swapping manifold & carbs are you positive that none of your linkages are binding ? Seems like in the other vid the C idled, can you pull it down to idle at the carb ? Take that chain off the disc and hook to the drawbar, and angle the disc to cut, otherwise you are just wasting time and fuel.
 
Is that disc set up with a snap coupler hitch? If so you are going have to replace it with a disc that has a hitch to hook to the drawbar on the back of the tractor as I think the first allis to have a snap coupler hitch was the WD. The farther away the implement is from the tractor the harder it is for the tractor to pull the implement. Also as others have said you need to adjust the angle on the disc so it is doing some cutting. Also you need to put the proper cover on that air intake stack to keep out water and other FM out of the oil bath air cleaner can. You do have oil in the bottom of that air cleaner can don't you? At the very least cover that air intake stack with a can whenever the tractor is not beining use same as you would the muffler whitch you should do even tho you have a rain cap because those caps do not always seal tight during a bad storm. Also don't make tighr turns as implements have been known to ride up on the rear tires and that would not be good!! If you have any questions please ask. Armand
 
Lanse, I think you will find that the carb you have is opening the butterfly rather than closing it with the governor. When the engine is running at a high speed the governor is always pushing the butterfly closed. Sounds like yours is pushing it open. Take the carb off and while holding it next to the linkage while moving the butterfly open and closed. If that is the case you can change it by removing the butterfly and flip the lever over. Dont drop the little screws or at leas put a bucket under where you are working so they can be found.
 

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