Geo th jube

I think the cure for the Jube with sticking valves would be instead of starting it up often for a few minutes is to let it run twenty minutes or more when it is started. If run to operating temp plus several minutes more whenever it is started the condensation problem will go away. Make sure the thermostat is good and it gets to at least 160. How long have you been letting it run when you start it? If just a couple minutes that will cause more condensation than not starting it at all. I would start it 3 or 4 times a year and let it run about 30 minutes each time. My two cents worth.

How come no one does what youre supposed to do when parking stuff and letting it sit. Remove the spark plugs and squirt oil into each cylinder and crank it over. Or remove the intake hose from carb and fog it with oil on shut down. Plus u could crank it over every couple months.

A agree with rustred, oil down the cylinders and give her a well deserved rest, even if it is 6 months. Others in his first post on this and the one since made the recommendation of not starting it every couple weeks or once a month, those short runs are a killer on an engine. I take it as he cannot help it though, I think he sees it as a fidget-spinner. ; > )

I think George's septuagenarian tractor would appreciate one of these:
Warmer upper

You should start your tractor and idle engine at least 1/2 hour, getting it up to hot operating temps, at least every 30 days, every 2 weeks even better, if you don't use it for working. Invest in a good float charger like the DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER to keep a full charge on the battery when tractor is in the barn/shed so it is ready to go when you are. Note a standard garage trickle charger is not the same and will do nothing if you think you can just connect it whenever you need to use tractor or detect a low or dead battery. Keep fuel fresh and tank topped off. Keep oil clean and full. Should have a Preventative Maintenance Schedule plan/checklist to verify critical features are at optimum performance before starting the tractor every time. Fluid levels, loose nuts and bolts, and tire pressure are some standar items. Get in the habit of cleaning out radiator fins and any chaf/debris that may have collected from a days use. Always use a Thermostat. Always turn Sediment Bulb Valve to the OFF position at shut down. Monitor oil pressure. At idle, normal is 27 PSI at start up on an N. As engine gets hot PSI may decrease some but if a drastic fall like 15-10 or less means engine is worn out and a rebuild is in order.

Tim Daley (MI)

I changed the oil and filter yesterday. The oil only had 30 hours on it. That convinced me I have a bigger problem than just a stuck valve. The oil looked like brown rust.

My solution is to start the Jubilee when I mow my lawn. Let it run at 1500 rpms. It takes me 25 minutes to mow with the Kubota and 10 minutes to do the trim work with my Husqvarna.

Before I put the valve cover back on I'm going to spray the valve stems with seafoam fogging spray.

Before I put the valve cover back on, I'm going to show my son what I did to free up the exhaust valve.

I'm closing off the valve cover vent and installing a PVC valve so no condensation can get in through the valve cover.
There is a vent in the oil fill cap..
If that's not enough vent, I make the vent hole bigger.

Time will tell if it works..

My problem is definitely condensation, not antifreeze.

I wish there was more oil on the valve train, so I'm going to use 5w30 full synthetic instead of 10w40.

I hate Indiana's condensation problem.
About every 2 to 3 years condensation under my delco distributor cap on my 2007 GMC truck shorts out the spark and AAA gives my truck a ride home.

I don't see how fogging will prevent the exhaust valve from sticking and prevent condensation under the valve cover.. The top part of the exhaust valve stem was rusty causing it to stick.

Do you see the condensation on the valve cover and the water I dumped on the concert?

I start it often to prevent pistons from sticking.

I was told once if a distributor has condensation in it to spray it with WD-40, wait a couple of minutes, and wipe it out an reinstall. WD-40 is a water displacer and it will chase the water out of the cracks that are causing the short circuits.

WD40 was invented for that purpose during WW2.

Getting to the the distributor cap on my GMC is a battle. It's not as easy as getting to the distributor on tractors.

No way will I risk not putting a new distributor on. I hate calling AAA and waiting hours for them to show up.

I'm cheap, but not that cheap.

Fogging any engine works because much of the oil passes through the combustion chamber unburned. When you have heavy oil smoke, shut it off and all that oil stays in there and wicks up the valve stems . Wisconsin motor corp. was very big on this in all their instruction manuals.

I just bought (this fall) a pto powered log splitter. Bought it specifically for a job for the 9N I bought on a whim and got running. Well my 9N has the wrong pto on it! I know I have an adaptor somewhere. Anyway, back to the topic on hand George, bring that tractor back to your home county, will give it a job on the log splitter this fall and winter. Condensation problem solved!!

I don't think I would go with the synthetic oil. Pretty thin and I myself am not a true believer in it, with the two trucks I tried it in, to much tappet noise at start up so went back to 10w30.

This post was edited by JWinIndiana on 09/26/2023 at 07:24 am.

ya i know what that is,... your problem is you are starting it. dont start it. running it for 1/2 hr does nothing and is creating the water. only turn it over with the starter every so often once you have the cylinders oiled. thats been the recommendation in many tractor manuals to oil the cylinders when in storage. and yes fogging it will get the oil on the valve stems. dont worry about the top.

The rust is on the top not the bottom of the valve.
You may do as you like.
In going to do what I think works best for me.
Thanks.

Why would the pistons stick? Back to what rustred said squirt some oil in the cylinders and do not start it unless you need to USE it. Before you shut it off, shut off the gas and run the carb dry. Pull the coil wire and then every couple of weeks hit the starter and crank it over a few turns. Maybe run it like you say every 6 months.

..You should start your tractor and idle engine at least 1/2 hour, getting it up to hot operating temps, at least every 30 days, every 2 weeks even better..??
Is this in one of Henrys biblical writings? Henry Ford was a businessman, part of his business was selling engine parts. If you do not think he would steer you wrong to make more profit you better reconsider. I will give him this pass. If that was in one of his manuals, that was likely written before every farmer had a battery charger or even jumper cables. So this would probably keep the tractor starting reliably all through the down season. Did the engine suffer additional wear due to this? YES!

The solution to condensation involves removing the moisture and preventing it from entering. IMHO, what will work best is a working PCV system. When it's running it is removing blowby which includes water vapor. Otherwise that vapor and the acids from combustion remain in the engine, creating that brown stuff you've seen. When it isn't running it is sealed to outside air and prevents atmospheric water vapor from entering.

Couple that with good oil and a good fogging just before shutdown and you've done all you can do.

bring that tractor back to your home county, will
give it a job on the log splitter this fall and
winter.

That won't do any good, I don't burn wood.

It was retired 4 years ago.

I wonder how many other show tractors face the
same condensation problem I have?
Or is the real problem Indiana weather?

I went with synthetic oil because it's 5w30.
My thinking is the oil is thinner and slicker.
Hopefully more oil will get to the valves.
My thinking might be flawed. I'll have to wait
and see.

I think the best thing is to show my son how to
fix the problem if the valves stick again.

My BIL in Leesburg Fl has a climate controlled
24/7/365 man cave where he stores his tools.

His tools will rust if it isn't climate
controlled.

No way am I going to climate control the Jub
retirement home.

almost as bad as granpa L. give him good proper advise , and he does as he pleases anyhow, so ok why ask us then when u already have your mind made up???

If you pour WD40 over the OUTSIDE of the distributor it will draw out moisture to. I thought a guy was joking when he said to do it and watched as an old 1974 F250 (360 V6) fired to life 20 seconds when before it refused to even fire.

My plan to remove condensation is adding a PVC valve and preventing condensation from entering the vent hole in the valve cover.
There is a vent in the oil fill cap.

Hopefully oil splashing will put that condensation in the bottom of the crankcase.