Farmall 300 6v generator, with a 12v system and battery

Hey people I am working on a farmall 300 and I want to keep the 6v generator because it runs the powersteering from a chrysler generator, but want to run a 12 volt battery , how so I wire it from the regulator 12v to the switch amp Guage lights .

6 volts will not charge a 12 volt battery

You will have to have the generator rebuilt for 12 volts.

I red that you can as long you change the regulator to a 12 volt ?

Without a regulator, just a cut out, it will charge at 1/2 the rate but it does
charge. I have done it.

What is a cut out , and how do the wires go to the switch amp gauge starter battery , sorry wiring is not my strong point .

It's a powersteering setup from an old chrysler car , run off of the generator, or should I delete the powersteering pump and generator and go with an alternator.

It is a switch that closes when the generator voltage is higher than the battery so it
can charge. It opens the circuit when the generator stops so it will not discharge the
battery through the generator.

I (past used tractor dealer and farmer) have SUCCESSFULLY used several 6 volt gennys
on a 12 Volt conversions and NEVER had any problems.

NOTE 1) I used a 12 Volt Voltage Regulator
NOTE 2) Im NOT saying they charged at any super high rate ONLY they did charge no
problems.


FYI A genny doesn't necessarily exactly know its precise output, a gennys power
increases as 1) It spins faster or 2) The magnetic field strength in which the
armature rotates is stronger WHICH HAPPENS IF THE FIELD CURRENT IS INCREASED.

NOTE 3) A job of the Voltage Regulator is to control, limit and regulate FIELD
CURRENT and as its increased the genny produces more power (or it spins faster).

NOTE 4) HOWEVER a risk of damage is if field current increases THEY could overheat
and 6 volt generator fields and 12 volt generator fields can be different.

NOTE 5) FOR THE RECORD I recommend to use a 6 volt genny at 12 volts Field Coils
should be swapped out for 12 Volt coils and similar the armatures swapped out...
HOWEVER I havent done EITHER yet never had a problem thats ALL Im saying...

Finally Im NOT saying its the way to go Im ONLY saying I did it several times, they
charged and never caused a problem. HOWEVER if used hard n heavy for long periods at
high charge currents (maybe battery is bad or theres a heavy current load??) there
could be damage maybe because the field coils overheated ??????

There ya go, do as YOU please this is ONLY my experience and NO WARRANTY it might
work for you TO MANY VARIABLES AND LOADS AND BATTEREIS all of which matters

John T

I red that you can as long you change the regulator to a 12 volt ?

See my post above

John T

but it does charge. I have done it

So have I Teddy, see my post above

John T

Why not go to an alternator with a double sheav pulley and run the power steering off the other sheave while runnning the first for the alternator. Would be the same as the generator if the steering pump is run off a belt. Solves both problems.

I learned that very lesson with my 1964 F250. The generator on it quit and I replaced it with what I thought was a 12 volt generator (no markings and wired up and fit perfectly) - it was actually a 6 volt Ford generator from the 1950s. Worked fine for 3-4 years before I sold the pickup. Only knew it when a shop working on it looked the part number up.

Years ago when I had a 10 hp cub cadet, I could increase the generator voltage by bending the metal tab and increasing the tension on a spring inside the voltage regulator.

I did the same when I was helping a friend work on his MF50. I fine tuned the generator's output by increasing spring tension on one voltage regulator's relay.

I could increase the generator voltage by bending the metal tab and increasing the tension on a spring inside the voltage regulator.

Been there done that and indeed it can work, but its hard to tell someone over the net what and where to bend and how much lol and NOT something I try to tell others. If there and armed with the types of meters you and I have its different. I may have some old Delco Remy data that describes it but Im not going there...

John T

I guess I don't understand the power steering part of this whole conversation. Is it just a belt driven unit, or is there some 6 volt electrical component to it? If it's just belt driven, there should be a way to drive it regardless of the battery voltage. If it's a 6 volt electrical unit, can't you put in some kind of resistor to reduce the voltage to it, and convert the rest of the tractor to 12 volt?

Tell me what I'm missing here.

I have (momentarily) gotten 17 volts out of a 6 volt generator, but those poor old field coils were surely suffering with twice design current & more like3X at 17 V!

The 6V generator will probably make 12V . use a 12V regulator . I agree that a diode is better than a mechanical cutout .

(quoted from post at 04:51:48 08/09/23) Why not go to an alternator with a double sheav pulley and run the power steering off the other sheave while runnning the first for the alternator. Would be the same as the generator if the steering pump is run off a belt. Solves both problems.

Click to expand...

Ya if I do it that way I can't get the hood back on