Thoughts on Ballast Block/Barrel for Three Point?

Clarkbug

Member
Hi all.

Question on what folks think about a ballast block or barrel that gets mounted to the three point hitch. Any issues with it causing problems in the long run? I would assume you need to get it hitched up and then lower the arms as much as possible so the tractor isnt trying to lift it up constantly....

I currently have a MF20 thats a bit to light in the rear for doing much of any loader work, and havent had much luck trying to find any wheel weights local to me. Ill probably put some rimguard in when its time for tires (one is in good shape, one is not great, but new rubber isnt in the budget right now), but would like to have a more near-term solution.

Would using something like a set of stay-bars that go from the lower links to the top link on the 3 PH help distribute that a bit better? I dont even know that they would fit around a block or barrel to be honest.

Im just trying to spitball some ideas before spring, so appreciate any thoughts.
 
Some pieces of equipment utilize bars going up to the center link mounting bracket, so you're not way off on that idea. I've also
seen weights made so that they can hitch to the drawbar as well as the three point hitch. With that you would want to do some
careful measuring, so that the three point is all the way up when you hitch to the drawbar, so that you aren't trying to lift up on
the drawbar accidently!
 
A 55 gallon steel barrel converted to a 3 point counterweight works great. When fabricating prior to filling with concrete, run the 'drawbar' for the lower links
through the front third of the barrel, not the center. This allows for the tractor's drawbar to remain in the correct fore and aft position for proper PTO work.
A modest additional benefit is that your weight is slightly farther away from the tractor for more effective counterweight. Measure the distance from the lower
link to the ground when in the lowest position and cut the holes in the steel barrel accordingly. Mine was used on two different tractors with different lower
link pins to ground measurements. I ended up modifying my barrels' lower links as well as constructing a wooden platform for the counterweight barrel storage.In
the fabrication I added some arms to allow for mounting of more suitcase weights, if and when needed. Also add a hitch out the back of the barrel for pulling
wagons, etc. without removing the barrel from the 3 point hitch. Leave the concrete in the barrel down several inches from the top so that chains, hitch pins,
etc. have a place to ride.
cvphoto146063.jpg
 
Got one on my Ford. 1100 lbs. No issues
after 8 years. I just don't raise it all
the way. When you make it, put the part
where the top link hooks close to the rim
of the drum. If you don't, you'll be
buying a new top link.
 
I have no idea what lift capacity on your tractor is but on
my to acording to tractordata my lift capacity is only 800
pounds so do not over weight it. And plan to have a different
tractor avaible for drawbar work. Trying to hitch something
under a load like that is a place I would not ever want to
be. If something would go wrong then I would be crushed under
the weight.
 
If I were to do that, I would raise the weight and chain it at the desired height so the hydraulics were not constantly holding it.

Might also want to fill the barrel with lose rocks or whatever for weight so it could be adjusted for the optimal weight.
 
I made one similar to WES, only used a plastic barrel, but that was a bad idea. It sits out in the sun most of the time, and the sun is destroying the plastic. It's still functional, as it's poured full of concrete, a half barrel. I didn't put the top link bracket far enough forward, but it was easy enough to weld on extensions. I did put a hitch on the back so I can still pull trailers etc. I would recommend using a steel barrel, a little more than half the height, and roll the top over so it's not sharp. Then build the framework inside it, but don't fill it full of concrete, leave it down about 3 inches, so you can store chains etc. in the top. Drill holes just above the concrete so it doesn't retain rainwater. I wish I could build another one and do it right! I seldom use mine as I found some wheel weights that are about 175 lb. each, they help a lot, and most of the summer I have the brush cutter on the back.
 
Recommend you check the lift capacity of your tractor before pouring concrete. 55 gallon barrel full of concrete will weigh in at about 1000 lbs +/-. Or, 30 pounds per
inch.
 
The current Winter issue of ''N_News'' has an article on a really nice home-made rear weight. The guy built a three point frame with an integral 2 Reese hitch,
then built a wooden form around it (with a cut-out for the hitch), laid a re-bar cage within it and filled it with concrete. At the top of the frame he left some
bolts sticking up out of the cement and to them he bolted a carryall basket on top of the 36 x 24 x 16'' x 1000 lbs. weight to hold chains and tools.

He also made some slick adjustable stabilizer bars to keep that weight from sloshing around back there.
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:12 01/28/23) A 55 gallon steel barrel converted to a 3 point counterweight works great. When fabricating prior to filling with concrete, run the 'drawbar' for the lower links
through the front third of the barrel, not the center. This allows for the tractor's drawbar to remain in the correct fore and aft position for proper PTO work.
A modest additional benefit is that your weight is slightly farther away from the tractor for more effective counterweight. Measure the distance from the lower
link to the ground when in the lowest position and cut the holes in the steel barrel accordingly. Mine was used on two different tractors with different lower
link pins to ground measurements. I ended up modifying my barrels' lower links as well as constructing a wooden platform for the counterweight barrel storage.In
the fabrication I added some arms to allow for mounting of more suitcase weights, if and when needed. Also add a hitch out the back of the barrel for pulling
wagons, etc. without removing the barrel from the 3 point hitch. Leave the concrete in the barrel down several inches from the top so that chains, hitch pins,
etc. have a place to ride.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto146063.jpg>

Unfortunately I have no welder or a ton of fab tools. Angle grinder and drill are at my disposal. So looking to use off the shelf stuff and found bits. I see there are some prefab boxes for ballast out there, and some weight racks, but I am also lacking the suitcase weights.

A local shop near me has a bunch of drop in weights that they aren't sure what they are for. They are selling a dozen of them at 75 pounds each for $200 for the lot. I was tempted to see if I could get those and run a three point drawbar through them, and just use that stack as my ballast. But that might not be secure enough.

I do appreciate all the ideas here everyone. Good input! I also don't do a lot of drawbar work currently, but having a point to hook to for pulling is a definite plus. I'll have to keep that in mind.
 
adding wt to the rear means you will be lifting more then loader breaks or front has problems just stay within what you now
have and be careful
 
I took and made me a box on the ground about 16 inch by 34. about 16 tall. drop the 3 point and see how close to the ground the pine hole is.
8-10 inches I would guess. take a rod 40 inch long the size of the hole in the three point. drill hole through the ends of box at 12 inches
from the bottom dead center. shove the rod through the hole and center it.fill with concrete and if you think it needs mesh wrap some chicken
wire around it and to the bottom. vibrate it let cure and remove the box. Don't forget to drill the holes at the end of rod for pins to keep
the 3 point arms on before you pour concrete. you can drop it and pull the pins anywhere and because it is square it stays put. Figure out
the size and width according to how much weight you need. Don't get to heavy. no need for top link. if you extend the hitch you can rest it
on the hitch if you are concerned about the 3 point holding it but I wouldn't.
 

Good point Gene. Right now my biggest thing is moving loads of mulch and wood chips around the yard, and maybe someday pushing some snow. With a load of chips the back end is pretty light and it's hard to get a decent dig on the pile. Having some rear ballast I think will keep me more stable. The nice thing is that the MF20 is the solid axle, so built a little better for handling loader work.
 
For little money I bought a pump for on a drill. Connector for the valve stem and filled my tires with windshield washer fluid. Does not freeze and can be
reused. Got mile cheap when Rural King had a sale. You could also use used anti freeze. When you want to change the tire pump it out and put it in the
new tire. I also bulit a weight rack for mine but rarely use it now.
 

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