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Securing Tractor to Trailer

NoBite

NoBite

Member
I've got a compact Kubota tractor, L2501, and a 16' flatbed trailer I primarily use for hay hauling. I need to get the tractor in to the shop, about 25 miles away. I am curious about the best method of securing the tractor to the trailer. I have a multitude of straps and ratchets, but no chains with come-alongs. Any tips?
 
The best tip I can give is to buy chains & binders. The chains will not only make you legal When properly used but safe for all on the road.
 
Buy chains.Minimum 3. one for ech end,one over the bucket.Better still,5. 2 each end,crossed,one over the bucket. The cops like the latter best.For a small tractor.5/16 trucker grade will be suffiencient. Check load rateing,and state and local laws.
 
I fully agree -- buy chains.

Some people will swear that straps will work, AND THEY MIGHT, provided all goes as planned. Depends on the strength of your straps.

The thing to consider here is, what happens to the tractor if you are in an accident? What happens if your trailer flips over? What happens of someone sideswipes you/your trailer?

When hauling anything heavy (such as a tractor), you NEED to secure the load as if planning for worst-case-scenario, which you ARE planning for. To plan for anything less would be negligence on your part should the worst-case-scenario happen.
 
Let me add that it's perfectly acceptable to use a combination of chains and straps, but your load needs to rely on the chains for keeping the tractor and trailer together in an accident.

When a load overturns and meets pavement, chains will ALWAYS outlast straps or rope against asphalt. Later I will post (in this thread) what happened in my experience. I still have a chain that held, where every strap failed -- even straps meant for far greater loads than my use.

Trust me on this -- I've been there. Lost my little Pasquali tractor in the process. When everything stopped, my load was still basically intact where it was secured, but ALL methods that were not chain were destroyed! Only chain survived, but skinned through about halfway on several links. Waiting on a call now, but will take pics shortly.
 
I like chains. The general opinion is they are the only legal method. I also like independent chains, one for each corner. I use two for the rear, drive into them til
tight, shut off tractor. Two on the front with binders. The ones with binders I like to loop around and hook on themselves so if the binder failed the chain would stillbe
there and even though somewhat loose still holding the tractor more or less in position. With a loader or implement that would need additional chains.
 
I will play devils advocate here. If you have good size straps it will be no problem.

one at each corner in the back. Use the hooks to hook to the tractor hitch and to the trailer. Do not twist or wrap strap around anything.

in the middle do the same thing again to the loader mount.

I believe that tractor has a nice place in the front corner to do the same. Then 1 over the bucket.

That is not a big or heavy tractor and is almost the same as my dads and we have been doing that since he bought it 10-15 years ago. we use 2 inch heavy straps I believe 3-5000 lbs not your little 500-1000 lbs straps.
We have run that trailer and tractor through ditches and the like with no movement. You must keep the straps as strait and tight as possible.

If you don't have the heavy straps, get 2 chains and 2 binders. 3/8 transport, 1 in front 1 in back and it will go nowhere. I know in the USA I have been told the DOT is crazy. Here in manitoba we have very little trouble with them and I have been stopped with a 100 hp tractor with 2 chains and binders and the dot tried to hassle me for the loader not being tide separate. Told him give me a ticket and i'll see you in court. I know the law and he didn't have a leg to stand on. never got a ticket in my life yet except I don't run log books and they gave me $150 for that once.
 
OK, here's the chain. It's a 5/16 Grade 70. I remembered it being more road-burned than it was. I also had several 1 1/2" straps and a 4" tow strap that ALL got destroyed. They never stood a chance against the asphalt.

For those saying that straps work, they do.....provided the straps don't ever have to come in contact with the road surface -- or another vehicle -- or come loose during transport and rub partly through.

Again, I still use straps as additional support, but will ONLY entrust the primary load-holding to my chains!

mvphoto56892.jpg


mvphoto56893.jpg


mvphoto56894.jpg


It would seem one of the pics is posted twice. Anyway, let me say again, my little Pasquali was only a 1,500 pound tractor. I had other things on the load as well which weighed less. Reports from people behind us said the trailer rolled over at least two times before ending up right-side-up. EVERY SINGLE STRAP ON THE LOAD FAILED, but all chains survived. This one chain had to be replaced. The straps did their job for that use, but straps lose some of their strength over time. Every time they get stressed, they lose a little. Chains take a lot more abuse.

Ask any trucker how well straps hold up to wind compared to chains. That's just wind!!

Straps are good (even great in some uses), but chain is reliable.
 
Here's a pic I took after getting home with my Gehl skidloader. It shows how I typically secure my load binders to prevent them accidentally coming loose.

Some of my binders have a hole in the handle. For those, I put twine or wire through the hole and around chain and binder body. For the binders without a hole, I wrap twine or wire around the binder handle and body, and the chain. When I have excess chain, it also gets wrapped around the handle.

I did also use straps on this load, but only for secondary uses. I will only rely on chain in the event of an accident. In the instance of our accident, it wasn't the fault of my driving, but of the person who nearly clipped our bumper. With that I must add that I, too, was at fault. We'd driven over 1,000 miles and I was very tired. Was actually looking for a place to pull off and rest when that happened.

Some will make it through life without ever experiencing an accident of this type. To believe it cannot happen to you is asinine! It's not just you on the roadways, and the others on the road aren't looking out for YOUR best interest. BE PREPARED!
 
KCM why did you not just cut the bad spots out of the chain and add a hook on the ends of the pieces over 8 feet long? Can then use them instead of long chains for the drawbar to trailer positions with out having all that chain to use up. By Dot Requirement straps going over sharp edges need to be padded. Chains can be also used as short ones by hooking the ends to the trailer and drop the middle through a shackle then tie each side to the ends. Not much loose chain to deal with and still makes 4 chains. Tie iron with iron. Sraps on drywall and lumber the cheap freight.
 
Multiple spots on the chain were damaged, towards each end. I "could" have shortened the chain, but use it (sometimes) for light-duty work pulling brush, etc.

I had that much excess chain that time simply because that's how things worked out.

Yes, can pad for straps, but padding doesn't help much if the straps rub on pavement.
 

If chains make you feel good then go ahead and buy them. If your concern is being compliant with the law there is only ONE class of freight that FMCSA requires securement with chains. That is rock blocks or huge boulders as in granite. There is no way that a chain rated for 2,000 lbs WLL will hold your tractor as securely as a strap rated for 5,000 lbs. WLL. The chain will break. A chain is certainly less prone to abrasion than a strap and if you are caught with ragged straps you will be written up. You simply get the abrasion covers for them. There is nothing in the regs about withstanding sliding on pavement.
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:08 06/17/20)
There is no way that a chain rated for 2,000 lbs WLL will hold your tractor as securely as a strap rated for 5,000 lbs. WLL.
Click to expand...

Using an inadequate chain is no less wrong than using an inadequate strap. It's simple common sense.

You can also say that there is no way a 5000lb strap will hold the load as securely as a 11,300lb WLL chain will. If all you're doing is securing a 4000lb tractor, either is overkill. Two 2000lb chains for the tractor itself is adequate. Common sense.

You need enough chains or straps for the weight you're hauling, and each individual piece needs its own chains or straps. The chains holding the tractor won't do jack to hold the mower on the 3pt should it come loose from the tractor for example, so tie it down with its own chains or straps. Common sense.
 
If I’m hauling on of my 8N’s I use this trailer with 5/16” Gr.70 transport
chain with pull over binders. If I’m hauling the J/D 5203 I use 3/8”
Gr.70 transport chain with ratchet binders. Sorry about the sideways
photo, picked the wrong one. Straps only when I haul my little J/D
Lawn tractor.
cvphoto47642.jpg


cvphoto47643.jpg


cvphoto47644.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:08 06/17/20)
You simply get the abrasion covers for them.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. However, I haven't happened to have seen them before -- which is why I'm more partial to chains for some things.

Thanks for the tip.
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:32 06/17/20) So if the tractor was destroyed what did you gain by the or
lose because of the straps ?
Click to expand...
Sounds like the tractor stayed semi-attached to the trailer and no one was killed.
 
(quoted from post at 13:32:35 06/17/20)
(quoted from post at 13:48:32 06/17/20) So if the tractor was destroyed what did you gain by the or
lose because of the straps ?
Click to expand...
Sounds like the tractor stayed semi-attached to the trailer and no one was killed.
Click to expand...

OK, I worded that poorly. The tractor was not "destroyed", but it certainly did damage to the sheet metal and the steering wheel. Oh, and a flattened seat.

As we were 1,200 miles from home, ended up having to leave the tractor there. Lost the trailer in the accident as well. Twisted the tongue right off the thing.
 
I would use the straps and call it good.
Don't drive like a maniac and your not
likely to roll it down the highway. If
you do and the straps break the ticket
will be the least of your problems.

People keep mentioning weight to figure
what you need. That's pointless. It
isn't what the tractor weighs if you're
in an accident it's that weight X the
force applied with the sudden stop.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:07 06/17/20)
(quoted from post at 10:50:08 06/17/20)
There is no way that a chain rated for 2,000 lbs WLL will hold your tractor as securely as a strap rated for 5,000 lbs. WLL.
Click to expand...

Using an inadequate chain is no less wrong than using an inadequate strap. It's simple common sense.

You can also say that there is no way a 5000lb strap will hold the load as securely as a 11,300lb WLL chain will. If all you're doing is securing a 4000lb tractor, either is overkill. Two 2000lb chains for the tractor itself is adequate. Common sense.

You need enough chains or straps for the weight you're hauling, and each individual piece needs its own chains or straps. The chains holding the tractor won't do jack to hold the mower on the 3pt should it come loose from the tractor for example, so tie it down with its own chains or straps. Common sense.
Click to expand...


Barnyard, glad to see you understand my point .
 
The way people drive today I wouldn't haul a tractor unless it is tied down with chains. You don't want to get run over by the tractor if you hit someone. The only other issue is be sure the tractor is far
enough forward there is sufficient tongue weight. If you center the weight of the tractor over the axles you might experience trailer sway. That means the trailer will violently swing side to side and could
cause you to loose control.
 
Put some chains and binders on it. So, what is so wrong with a little overkill and have all your bases
covered? What could go wrong? Anything can happen, and will, you won't see things coming until it's to
late. I was working on the I 35 bridge in Minneapolis MN, one week later it collapsed and was in the
Mississippi River, never seen that one coming. Be prepared and take care.
 
If using chain and lever type binders it is really good practice to tie the lever down when hauling something with pneumatic tires. I've seen a lever binder pop open when hauling a big forklift and hitting a bump that causes the machine to "bounce" and slack the chain for a split second. Personally, I prefer ratchet screw binders for this type of load.
 
Where is anybody getting the 2000 pound chain must be using swing set chain. 5/16th's G70 chain is around 5400 and 3/8th's g70 chain is 6600. 1/2 is 9200 2 inch straps are around 3300 4inch are around 5000 Been a while since I looked at the tags on straps. And of course weakest point is the one that counts. And if the trailer hooking point is only 1000 all the chain in the world will not make a difference.
 
(quoted from post at 03:37:27 06/18/20) Where is anybody getting the 2000 pound chain must be using swing set chain. 5/16th's G70 chain is around 5400 and 3/8th's g70 chain is 6600. 1/2 is 9200 2 inch straps are around 3300 4inch are around 5000 Been a while since I looked at the tags on straps. And of course weakest point is the one that counts. And if the trailer hooking point is only 1000 all the chain in the world will not make a difference.
Click to expand...


Caterpillarguy, Barnyard got my point, apparently you did not. My point is that most YTers believe that chains are the answer. Never straps. To most YTers the rating never even comes into the picture. According to law it makes not a particle of difference. Either is equally good provided it is done right. If you are on the road you know that straps are in use far, far more use than chains for big heavy loads, simply because it is easier than sliding protectors over straps. I use chains primarily, but there is no way I am throwing a chain over my loader arms. It is not good to tell someone simply to use chains and they will be good, and leave them clueless about load limit ratings.
 
By the way, "come-alongs" are NOT a valid way to secure a load, at least not as a primary securement.

I would have no qualms about leaving a come-along that I just ABused to winch something up on a trailer, in place as a little extra insurance, but I would still use enough straps and/or chains and binders to secure the load as I normally would.

Mostly because I'm wore out from yanking on that d*mn come-along and too tired to bother taking it off and putting it away... LOL
 
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