04 GMC 1500

rick n ohio · Jun 25, 2019

The battery goes dead over a week if not started the battery is new the fellow I got it from said it has been draining the battery for about a year where would you start digging at to find the problem thanks

JDEM · Jun 25, 2019

You start by measuring what the actual battery drain is in milliamps. Easy to do with a $3 meter from Harbor Freight. Just about all vehicles built in the past 10 years will kill a battery in one month if not driven and that is normal. You say your's goes dead in 1 week? So that would be 4 times more drain then ought to be there. 1/10th of an amp is normal (100 milliamps). More then that and you have a problem. Like an added car sound system or alarm? Hidden light on all the time inside the glove-box or under the hood? Average car/truck battery can handle a 1/10th constant drain for 700 hours, AKA 29 days.

Janicholson · Jun 25, 2019

I will add to JDEMs fine comments. .Once you find out it has the excess drain by using a cheap amp meter, or a plain old test light will also work pretty well, between the Positive post and the terminal clamp that you disconnected, if the draw shows a very dim glow that is not visible in daylight, or less than 100ma, it might be OK. If it shows more, or lights brightly, there is a heavy draw (the meter should be set to at least 10 amps to begin with, then reduced in setting till it indicates well) leave the meter or test light connected, and begin by looking for lights left on. If none, start pulling fuses (there may be more than one location for them both under the hood, and under the dash) and watching the meter/light. Reinstall fuses each time to avoid mismatching amp ratings! When fuse pulling is finished, and no joy, Disconnect the alternator plug from the side of the alternator. If still no joy, disconnect the main (big) wire at the alternator. If it goes out with the alternator out of the circuit. Replace it. Jim

Determined · Jun 25, 2019

Common places to start looking on that truck;

CD stuck in radio player trying repeatedly to eject the disc even with the truck shut off.

Forward backward slider switch for drivers side power seat sticking.

Anything aftermarket installed?

Stereo
Brake controller
Command start
Relay and wiring for trailer plug power and or battery isolator if equipped with a second battery.
Dash cams...

I think your truck is set up to kill power to all lights etc 10 minutes after the key is shut off regardless of doors or glove box being left open so if none of the above apply I would move on to the alternator.

Oliver 500 Wa · Jun 25, 2019

......Anything aftermarket installed?

Stereo
Brake controller
Command start
Relay and wiring for trailer plug power and or battery isolator if equipped with a second battery.
Dash cams...

All of this is why I check out a used vehicle very closely if it has any aftermarket electrical equipment. Most of the time it is incorrectly wired. No fuses, not connected to switched power, etc.

Last time I was looking for a used truck I ended up walking away from one that would have been nice except for too many things jury-rigged onto the electrical system.

steve_in_mo · Jun 25, 2019

Some GM vehicles even have a fuse block under the back seat.
I don't know about Ford of Chrysler.

Steve@Advance · Jun 25, 2019

Like others said, use an amp meter.

The amp meter MUST be connected in series with one battery cable and the battery post.

NEVER across the battery!!! Doing that will instantly destroy the meter or blow a fuse in the meter.

Be sure the ignition is off, all accessories are off, doors closed, hood light removed if equipped.

The reading may start out high and slowly diminish as things charge up and time out. That is normal. The amp meter leads need to be firmly attached, not hand held. Any loose or intermittent connection will start the time out over again, giving a false reading.

Once the reading is stable, start pulling fuses, one at a time until the reading drops to an acceptable level.

With each fuse pulled, when it is put back, the draw may temporarily go back up, then diminish, that is normal.

Which ever fuse drops the draw dramatically is the circuit that is causing the problem. From there explore whatever is on that circuit. Remember, you can't open any door while testing.

Sprint 6 · Jun 25, 2019

Instrument Panel Cluster, about the only thing I see drain the battery on those trucks. Unplug the IPC and drive it with a dash GPS for a week. Bet the battery stays up. The printed circuit in the IPC on those trucks is starting to get corrosion between the layers. I have replaced 10-15 IPCs for battery drains. It is an easy first test.

Liquid_wrench · Jun 25, 2019

Rick,

My 2005 Silverado was also draining the battery when sitting for a few days. I found that the dash lights and radio were not turning off when I removed the key and opened the door.I would open the rear door to make them go out. Now I check every time I get out...I either have to open and close the drivers door a few times and watch the dash lights or open the rear door.....It doesn't seem to do it when I drive it every day.

omahagreg · Jun 25, 2019

I have an '05 Silverado that is our spare vehicle now. Had a less than a year old battery that failed. Load tested it, battery was fine. I left the battery on my workbench for a week and it dropped 1 volt! Has an internal drain. A $20 battery tender keeps it ready to go!

JD Dave · Jun 26, 2019

You can also check your alternator for an internal short. I had one draw current with the engine off and the alternator felt warm to touch.

04 GMC 1500

rick n ohio

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JDEM

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Janicholson

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Determined

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Oliver 500 Wa

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steve_in_mo

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Steve@Advance

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Sprint 6

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Liquid_wrench

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omahagreg

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JD Dave

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