Totally unrelated problems

rrlund

Well-known Member
The park indicator light in the dash of my White 2-105 hasn't worked since I had the engine out of it a few weeks ago. I took the dash all apart Saturday thinking I might have a broken or loose wire after jacking up the cab to get the fuel tank and engine out. I had the wife get in and watch the light while I messed with the switch under the cab and couldn't get it to come on at all.

This morning I replaced that weeping oil cooler hose. When I started it up to check for leaks,the park light was on. I released the brake and it wouldn't go off. The wife wasn't here,so I had to keep walking around and climbing up the steps to check it. I kept bending the tab on the switch trying to get it to work right. It finally went off,but then it wouldn't come back on again.

I started the tractor at about 2:45 to hook on to the baler and it was working. I checked it several time through the afternoon and it's still working. I know there's no way in the world they're related,but it's sure a mystery why fixing one fixed the other. I guess it just healed. lol
 
The mystery is man you are just a GOOD mechanic , o I guess you know that by now.. Have a great day. Don,t know too much about the three day bike ride, think coming to Tennessee would be better LOL.
 
I just strike fear in the heart of anything I walk by. It knew it'd BETTER start working.

Hay Hay Hay wants us to come to Ky for the last race at Keeneland too,but he says I'll have to buy a new pair of pants. What are these "khakis" of which he speaks? LOL
 
Well,he said no bibs,so I guess they'd turn me away at the gate even if they were Khaki. I wonder about those silk ones with the mink straps and the Beat Yale buttons that Oliver Wendel Douglas had?
 
well like I said any trip beats the byke ride..but seems you are up to it so as long as the bike is green you probably would be O K.
 
Hi Randy, when electrical circuits act intermittently it usually is a problem with the GROUND. If the switch that senses the ON/OFF of the Park brake or Lock only has one wire on it then there is almost 100% chance that the switch supplies the GROUND to turn the light ON in the dash. If the switch has two wires then there is a 50/50% chance that one of the wires goes to a GROUND point on the frame somewhere. Make sure that when you did the other repairs that you didn't break or forget to connect a GROUND wire somewhere.

Good luck
JimB
 
It dawned on me today that the switch might complete the ground since it only has one wire and wouldn't light up a test light. If it acts up again,I'll take the screws out and clean up the connections. I guess all the wiggling I did on it Saturday must have helped some connection somewhere.
 
After realizing how that switch works and Jim confirming it,I think if it happens again it can be fixed by just cleaning those wire connections. I'm reasonably sure it's not a problem with the wiring under the dash anyway.
As much rain as I've had on the hay,a little bit on my parade won't be that big a deal. LOL
 
Remember that the "silver" anti-seize is and insulator as it is nickle based. You need to use the "gold" copper based which will conduct.
 
I had one just as confusing a few weeks ago. SMTA would not start, I replaced the push/pull kill switch and it started. Then it didn't and when I turned the lights on it started. Talk about confusing, turning the lights off and on would start and kill the tractor. I finally found a loose wire at the voltage regulator. It has mowed about 20 acres now without a hitch. Ellis
 
Always got to love that and it always seems to show up after you just fixed something else . Your switch may be going bad sometimes they get an intermittent bad spot in em after 30 years
 

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