rrlund

Well-known Member
I thought I'd post this just FYI. I'd been having fits with two different carbs on my Yamaha 225 Moto 4,so I finally threw in the towel this spring and bought a new carb off Amazon. That one was no better. The float was sticking right out of the box and I'd have to shut off the gas as soon as I shut off the engine. It ran rough as a cob too. I took it apart and blew everything out. That fixed the flooding problem,but it still didn't have any power. I couldn't run it more than half throttle or it would cut out,backfire,spit and sputter. Going uphill I'd be right down in first gear nursing it along.

I noticed that on rough ground it would do it even at low RPMs. It started to dawn on me that maybe the float wasn't dropping low enough and was hitting the bottom of the bowl before it even let much gas in. I just took the bowl off,took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent the floats up just ever so slight. I put it back together,rode it out to tag a calf and down to see if some corn had sprouted. It runs perfect. Apparently it just wasn't getting enough gas in the bowl.
 
Good thinking Randy! That is why I liked the old holleys. The sight plug on the side of the bowl allowed you to get the float adjustment correct fairly easily.
 
I have seen that on a little Chinese generator I bought years ago. If it wasn't sitting on dead level ground it would fuss around. Found out it has some sort of rough service carb or maybe it was purposly built that it had to run dead level. Took of the carb and then the bowl. The float had to almost hit the bottom of the bowl before it would let in fuel. It had a tiny coiled spring as part of the needle valve float linkage. Cut maybe 1/4 of the little spring off and then the float sat almost level. Works perfectly now. Maybe it was earthquake proof?
 
I don't remember if I heard it on Car Talk on the radio or where it was,somebody was having trouble with a car cutting out when they'd turn in one particular direction. That one was sloshing the gas in the bowl so the float was closing so it was near empty when it leveled back out coming out of the turn. They can be touchy little buggers.
 
Is that a slide type carb?

I bought one for a quad. Don't remember what brand, been a while.

Put it on and it would barely run, too lean. Pulled the slide and the needle was all the way down. Moved the snap ring to raise it up to the mid top position, ran great.

I think the carbs are set up to fit many applications, they probably have them jetted for the smallest engine so they don't run too rich and exceed emissions.
 
I have a similar problem on my 1990 Honda 300. Carb that was on it would leak gas when engine turned off. Float was not adjustable so I got a new carb from Amazon. You can adjust the float on it but even though I have it set higher than specs it will still leak fuel, usually after I have run it a bit. It generally doesn't leak when I first put it on. A friend suggested maybe fuel cap wasn't venting so I tried another cap also. I have had it off and on so many times I could do it in my sleep. The needle has a spring loaded pin that protrudes out the top, not sure what the purpose of that is. Any suggestions?
 
I have a Yamaha 250 that I put a new carb and the little short manifold connector on. Gas flows out the overflow to beat the band. I think the needle is either left out or the float is stuck on the bottom. And that carb is a giant PITA to r and r. I think they hung the carb in the air and built the four wheeler around it giggling all the while thinking how they have intercoursed anyone who dares to pull it. TDF
 
So, by raising the float level, you richened the mixture.

If it tends to stall when coming to a stop, as in flooding, or dripping fuel out the overflow tube, you might need to lower the float a little and raise the slide needle.

Raising and lowering the slide needle is how to correct the jetting, easy, just don't drop the snapring!
 

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