school me on boiling a carburetor

jCarroll

Well-known Member
Location
mid-Ohio
I'm attemping to revive a Wisconsin AGND engine which sat outside for ?years without the air cleaner assembly.
Rainwater entered the vertical intake stack and filled the carb.
The carb was filled with water, rust, and "crud".

I do not have a parts washer.

What exactly is boiling out a carburetor. Seems like I need a thorough cleaning before taking it apart.
 
Take the carb completely apart and remove all the internals. put it in a large pan and fill it with water at lest 3 inches over the carb. add vinegar to it and heat it up to a boil where the water is really turning over so as to get a good flow through your carb. after 10 minutes turn car over to change the direction of water flow. probably could use something besides vinegar but you might have to replace your pan if you do. good hot boiling churning water should clean it out. Once yo get it all cleaned you will most likely need a carb kit for it. hope this helps.
 
Yes, boiling is a proven method of cleaning out a carb.

I would disassemble it as far as possible without risking twisting off any screws or damaging any other parts.

For corrosion use something acidic like vinegar. Just put it in and let it boil.

It will clean it to bare metal, but not a substitute for poking, scraping, blowing and verifying every passage is clean. You can go into "images" on the search, find most carb fuel circuits, the internal passages and what they do. That will give a guide to help find all the passages and be sure they are clear. You may have to remove some pressed in plugs, but be careful and be sure you can get replacements.

But still, I would not get my hopes too high. A carb, especially an aluminum one, that has sat that long exposed may well be beyond repair. If the metal is corroded away there is likely no saving it.
 
If you're in an area that gets below freezing, having water in it, you better check it over for cracks.
 
you can also buy a gal can of carb cleaner at napa and soak it about 4 hrs stuff is pretty strong where gloves (its not the spray stuff)
 
One thing I do know and that is to AVOID (before boiling) removing any removable brass jets or seats that are stubborn unless you know what you are doing. There have been a lot of posts here on the forum regarding the use of heat and proper-sized and designed tools to coax these things out of their resting places. Many a carb has been ruined by not doing it properly.
 
Had a Marvel that sat untouched outside for 35+ documented years.
For all intentional purposes it should have gone on the scrap pile. (actually it was on a scrap pile when I got it)
Could not even get 1 screw to turn, broke 2 trying.

Put it in a big pot outside on a hotplate and cooked at a slow boil for an hour in a water and rad cleaning solution (oxalic acid)

Pulled it out and rinsed it in a baking soda and water bath to neutralize the acid then rinsed in clean water.

It cleaned up great, all the screws came out like they were put in yesterday.
The two I broke the heads off of unscrewed with a pair of pliers and no effort.

I was dealing with brass, steel and aluminum and contrary to what others say there was no problem with the solution eating anything away, granted this carb was built well to begin with.

Proceed at your own risk, just sharing what worked for me.
 
(quoted from post at 05:58:43 05/12/18) you can also buy a gal can of carb cleaner at napa and soak it about 4 hrs stuff is pretty strong where gloves (its not the spray stuff)
Is this the one with a basket in the top? Carb cleaner in the bottom and layer of oil on top to keep fumes in. I bought one in the late 70s and paid about 40 bucks, a lot of money then. I cant tell you how many carbs I have done. From quadrojets to lawn mowers. The can looked just like a paint can. I don't know what happened to it but I would love to have another one. I figured EPA did away with them cause they worked so well.
 

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