Any apple gurus here?

Dave H (MI) · Feb 4, 2018

Going to sell this house soon. My last field on this side of town is going to fall to the developers in the next few years and it makes sense to have all my stuff at the farm. I have an Empire apple here that is pretty old. Makes the best apple sauce, dumplings...etc. I have bought Empire apples from others and they do not taste the same to me. I did buy one at the nursery and planted it out to the farm but worried it may not be the same either. I think I want to graft this tree here and plant the results out there. I see videos on YouTube and it looks like I could do this. What do I use for root stock? Not like I have lots of little apple trees around!

Paul Janke · Feb 4, 2018

My wife is a horticulturist who worked at a nursery for about 12 years and I am going off of my poor memory, but I think she says apple trees use crab apple root stock. I can't ask her right now, but I will try to check with her to find out for sure. Paul

IanC · Feb 4, 2018

Call Joan Runkle, or corner her at either the Livingston Conservation District meeting on the 13th, or the Farm Bureau Education Day (good for a couple RUP credits) on the 20th. She's got the name of THE fruit tree guru from MSU extension. I'm going to talk to her too as I want to know if they are selling Runkle Apple trees or graft stock yet.

spitz · Feb 4, 2018

I use burnt ridge nursery or raintree nursery for my rootstocks. I am sure an internet search will give you more options. Had better luck with raintree.

Janicholson · Feb 4, 2018

You are correct. Disease resistant Crab apples are the option of choice. Grafting is pretty easy. Getting a crop might take 4 years. I would graft at about one inch to the stock diameter or a little less. Jim

JD Dave · Feb 4, 2018

You can grow your own seedling rootstocks by planting apple seeds or you can buy the rootstocks. Try Treco: http://www.treco.nu/
It is very true that given the name of the variety their characteristics vary from various sources and if you want what you have then graft them.

Dave H (MI) · Feb 4, 2018

Hey Ian, how you been? I will try to hunt her down and see can can I get connected to that person. I actually have a few contacts at MSU...maybe can find the right person anyway.

bcdave · Feb 5, 2018

I would get one year old dormant wood off your empire tree about the same size if possible as the tree you want to graft. If the tree is larger you can still graft or chip bud. Grafting is best done just when the sap starts to flow but chip budding can be done earlier. Last year I chip budded about 1500 Trees to Macintosh
Dave

IanC · Feb 5, 2018

As I recall he worked out of an office someplace in the thumb. Good days and bad days, mostly good lately. Had to get out from under my truck, so traded it and wifes Torrent in on a Jeep Compass at Dick Scott in Fowlerville. Treated real well, and she likes the vehicle. First time in 45 years I've been without access to a truck. Maybe I can con my brother into letting me plate the old farm flatbed he has stuck out behind the garage.

Traditional Farmer · Feb 5, 2018

Buy the root stock to graft your trees,I have a friend that has gathered up over 100 varieties of old apple trees and grafts and sells them he also will custom graft trees for you pretty reasonable especially if you give him some cuttings so he can graft some for himself

Traditional Farmer · Feb 5, 2018

His website is heirloomapple.com,located at Hood Virginia

WI Dan · Feb 5, 2018

...I'm watching this thread closely. My parents have a Macintosh tree that's over 40 years old and produces wonderfully. I'd love to have its children.

atlarge54 · Feb 5, 2018

Have I lost my mind? Seems like I read many years ago that most dwarf apple trees are grafted onto pear rootstock?

Could someone please chime in on this. Zone 5 here.

C.Amick · Feb 5, 2018

You can use most other common apple tree types for root stock, if you just want a standard size tree. I dig up volunteer trees that I find which came up from seed and use them. (You could put graphs on the tree you planted.) You have to do it after freezing weather and before the buds start to open. I like using cuttings about the diameter of a pencil or a little larger. What ever you are putting it on has to be the same diameter so the bark edges will line up. I cut mine at a pretty steep angle so there is a lot of contact area between the two pieces. The cuts need to match up well, flat against each other. I hold them together and wrap them very tightly with electrical tape. Wrap it several times so that you have a nice stiff joint. Late in the second year of growth, split the electrical tape vertically in a couple places to allow for expansion. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PEEL OFF THE ELECTRICAL TAPE. THE BARK WILL COME OFF WITH IT. The tape will eventually fall off on it's own.

WI Dan · Feb 5, 2018

Good tips c.amick.
Do you cut the host at a 45 degree angle across the whole width?

C. Amick · Feb 6, 2018

Yes, I cut it straight all the way across. However, 45 degree cut isn't enough contact area. The joint will want to move. You need a longer diagonal cut. Some people use a "V" notch cut, but I think the way I do it is easier. You will need either a really sharp pocket knife or a box cutter/utility knife. You have to keep shaving the faces of the cut until both halves fit together good and the bark edges line up all the way around.

WI Dan · Feb 6, 2018

Okay, so basically splicing wood of same diameter. I'm picturing something like slicing a pencil in half, long angle, then sticking it back together and aligning the flat sides...right?

Do you have to keep it wet or water it?
What time of year is good to do this?

C.Amick · Feb 6, 2018

Yes, you can use pieces a little larger in diameter, they are just harder to slice. No, you don't have to do anything to it. Just make sure you get it sealed up good with the
tape to keep water and air out. Do it in the spring after the freezing weather has ended and before the buds start to open. If it turns cold after you add your graft, wrapping it
with something might help. Oh, I only use a piece about 6 or 8 inches long with a few buds on it. If longer, trim the end off and seal the cut end with some caulk or something
similar, so that it doesn't dry out. A graft that is too long will put too much bending pressure on the joint, plus the extreme end probably won't bud out anyway due to lack of
sap.

WI Dan · Feb 6, 2018

'preciate the tips. I'll give it a try. Now I just gotta figure out rootstock...
There's a bunch of little shoots of random trees in the ditchline. Box elder, elm, poplar. Maybe I'll experiment with some of those.

C. Amick · Feb 7, 2018

Go to where there are some old apple trees and look for some young apple trees that have come up from seed and transplant them. Dig a large hole to give the roots plenty of room and mix the soil with some organic matter, lime, and fertilizer. I use cow poop for my organic matter. You may want to wait until the following year to do the grafting, after it has started growing again.

Any apple gurus here?

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