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Plumbing issue, drains

John M

John M

Well-known Member
Location
Nunyafn business
Ok, so I have this issue here with the drains in my house. Kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing machine and bathtub are on the same "main" line to the main stack going to septic tank. Bathroom sink goes to main stack separately. (note, main stack and bathroom sink were changed several years ago during a remodel. These have no issues.) Bathtub drains slow, very slow, washing machine and dishwasher drain, but washing machine will drain back into the tub. Kitchen sink seems to drain fine, as does dishwasher, but it hasn't been run since Monday, so it may go back to the tub. Ill know later. When sink drains, you can hear bubbling/gurgling in the drain for the washing machine. (I've lived here since I was 4, and its always done that once or twice a year, but its always been when the washing machine drained, so we never worried about it.) I thought that there were clean outs for this line, but these isn't, so I'm going to put some in where each drain goes into the line that goes to the main stack, as well as one on the secondary line to the stack this weekend when I have more time, but for now I need to get this stuff draining. Looking under the house, I have the sink on the right, then the dishwasher, then the washer, then the bathtub. I'm going to have to cut somewhere to get my snake in there to clean out what I feel is a clog. Where would you make that cut?
 
get as close to the main line as you can to put a clean out in. i would be willing to bet you have tree roots in the line. if you can find it, dig up the cap on the septic tank and see if its overfull. also, if you know the location of the distribution boxes for the field, dig the first one up nearest the tank and see if the field is taking water.
 
The VAST majority of the time when I ran across slow drainage problems, it was due to inadequate ventilation within the line(s). Other potential causes for slow drainage are full septic tank (needs pumped out), roots growing into drain lines, improper slope of drain lines, pipe not large enough to accommodate flow of multiple devices simultaneously, leech field problems, clogged drain line(s) (often, from buildup of kitchen grease), and a favorite for our area, the water table being too high and not allowing the system to drain.

Code varies from area to area, and I'm WAY out of date on building codes!! However, there "should" be a clean-out port on the line that runs into the septic tank. I think code in many places was updated years ago to include (if necessary) a clean-out going back towards the house lines as well, unless those lines are accessible from other clean-outs elsewhere in the system.

I know you're not going to like hearing this, but if your having problems with your drain lines, I would highly recommend hiring a plumber to come in and run a camera through your system. This would show all problem areas, would provide accurate location of any problems, and would help spot any potential future problems.

...Was just looking on Amazon and found out that there are endoscopes with up to 50' cable for VERY low cost! Here's one that's 49' long for under $30 Prime:
https://www.amazon.com/2Million-End...r=8-7&keywords=plumbing+inspection+camera
With one of these, you could run the camera down each drain and inspect the lines yourself. Have never used one, but if it was difficult to work through the lines, I could see taping the camera to your snake using several wraps of electrical tape.
 
That is one of those things you would have to be there to guess at where the blockage is. It sounds like when the remodel was done someone did something wrong somewhere. It may need to be corrected or at least a cleanout access installed. Bottom line is you need a plumber. It doesn't sound like a DIY project for long term solutions.
 
Whatever you do, put in a cleanout that points UPSTREAM even if it's not the "right" way to do it.

When my tub clogged, the only cleanouts were pointed downstream. One was past the clog, and useless. The other was in the brass "bulb" trap itself, and useless.

I finally gave up and put some liquid plumber down the drain. Cleaned it right out and it's been fine ever since.
 

It sounds like the problem is one that has been both long and short term. As kcm said, long term problems like you describe are usually vent related. Drains are supposed to be within four feet of a vent stack or a "back vent" run up above. These vent problems can often be resolved by the installation of a "vent-check" near the drain. You could put one under the kitchen sink. It sounds like you could also have a problem with the tank being blocked. Though unlikely it could be blocked by grease. You could also have a problem at the field that the tank drains into. To check this you need to remove the cover to the distribution box. Since the D-box cover may have never been removed, the better choice would be to uncover the tank clean-out to take a look, and check the level. ***!!!*** Check the level in your tank before cutting the pipe!!!!! or you may take a bath. Checking the level in the tank should be quicker and easier than installing clean-outs.
 
From what I can tell, the only thing different after the remodel is the main stack and main line was moved over about 12ft. While the areas with this issue were remodeled, the drains are still the same pipe that was put in when the house was built, just the secondary was cut shorter, with the exception of the dishwasher drain. I suppose there could be a problem where it was reconnected, but this is a sudden issue. I would think if the issue had always been there, it would have clogged by now. Weve been back in the house since 01.
 
Tries tha tat the sink last night, got to the bottom of that drain and it just stopped. Have to pull the washer and dryer (stacked unit in a tight spot) to get to that drain, and couldnt get it to go far in the bathtub.
 
Thats the plan, but cant do that until this weekend. I do plan to go ahead and put on in where I cut to clean out the clog. Wife
is going to run the Liquid Plumber down the drains this morning at some point.
 
A drain needs to have a minimum of 1/4" per foot slope to it. If they moved the plumbing over 12' without lowering the other end that could be 3" of slope the pipe needs to drain. If you can get to it put a level on it and if the level is 4' long the down side of the level should be an inch off the pipe at least when level.
 
I dont think its a tank issue, as I mentioned. Even with water in the tub, the commode will flush just fine, and the bathroom
sink, which is on a line of its own, will drain fine.
 
Now that I think about it, maybe they did do some re plumbing under the house, since the bathtub was moved as well. I would tend to think, that since the plumbing had to be inspected it was done right, or it wouldnt have passed inspection. The gurgling at the washing machine has done that since the house was built, but again, it happened so infrequently, we never worried about it. Im thinking there is a clog where the pipe goes into the main stack, the pipes are filling up with water blocking off the vent, which is near the kitchen sink. I have too much trouble posting pics any more, or I could show you all what the deal is with the pipes. Cant really afford a plumber right now.
 
Get a small snake in each one of the drains starting with the one closest to the stack. Keep working to the sink. When it is draining right run hot water while the snake is turning too. Opening a clean out just makes a mess.
 
Is the Septic tank equipped with a filter. Newer tanks are so equipped to keep solids from entering into the field lines. Clogged filters can also give the same symptoms.
 

You can rod through the washer standpipe and the tub overflow. Rodding through the overflow avoids the drum trap under the tub drain and you can generally get through the washer standpipe. My last choice would be to go under the house and cut pipe!
 
(quoted from post at 04:13:07 10/19/17) Ok, so I have this issue here with the drains in my house. Kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing machine and bathtub are on the same "main" line to the main stack going to septic tank. Bathroom sink goes to main stack separately. (note, main stack and bathroom sink were changed several years ago during a remodel. These have no issues.) Bathtub drains slow, very slow, washing machine and dishwasher drain, but washing machine will drain back into the tub. Kitchen sink seems to drain fine, as does dishwasher, but it hasn't been run since Monday, so it may go back to the tub. Ill know later. When sink drains, you can hear bubbling/gurgling in the drain for the washing machine. (I've lived here since I was 4, and its always done that once or twice a year, but its always been when the washing machine drained, so we never worried about it.) I thought that there were clean outs for this line, but these isn't, so I'm going to put some in where each drain goes into the line that goes to the main stack, as well as one on the secondary line to the stack this weekend when I have more time, but for now I need to get this stuff draining. Looking under the house, I have the sink on the right, then the dishwasher, then the washer, then the bathtub. I'm going to have to cut somewhere to get my snake in there to clean out what I feel is a clog. Where would you make that cut?
Click to expand...
4904.jpg
 
Are your drains plastic or cast iron? If plastic, you can go along tapping the pipe with a screw driver handle & listen for a hollow (empty) or solid (full) sound to try to track down the obstruction.

Gurgling in any drain is a sign of no venting.

Start from where you know it appears to be draining fine, and look upstream for:

1) Proper slope & no sags
2) Proper venting
3) A place where the pipe flows from a larger to a smaller pipe (obstruction starter).
4) Snake the thing out.

Just like sticking a straw in a Coke and capping the top with your thumb & pulling it out. The Coke comes up with the straw because there is no vent to allow air to back fill the volume of the straw when the liquid flows out.
 

If possible and practical. Running grey water to a dedicated drain system and only black water to a septic system will prevent many problems .
 
They are plastic. I do think part of the problem may be due to where I think this clog may be, not allowing things to vent right to help the water "clear" the clog.
 
Did that with the kitchen sink. Couldnt get snake in the tub drain I guess because of the little thing that closes off the tub to fill with water. Washing machine has to come out of a very tight space to get to it. Be easier to get to that under the house, and cut and patch the line. It would literally take me 3 hours to move the washer and dryer, stack unit, to get to the drain. Had to describe.
 
(quoted from post at 09:11:21 10/19/17) Tank was put in in 74, so... I dont think the problem is the tank.
Click to expand...

'74 could have been during the time that they were hanging the baffles in the tanks with steel rod that would rust away so that the baffles would be lying on the bottom.
 
Dealt with similar issue last night, hair /soap / grease blob from bath tub blocking the drain line. Took overflow cover off, 5 tries later finally got snake down into the trap. Filled up tub and worked away, let loose all of a sudden.

Sisters house has a line in the bathroom sink that is not sloped right, plugs up once a year at least.
 

I had a clog shortly after a bathroom complete remodel. Uh, oh, what did I do... but turned out to not be related. I went through all the same issues trying to rod out the drains from inside from a low crawl space. After no success even getting the clean out caps off the old pipe and not wanting to cut the cast iron, I borrowed a power auger (had to clean it up since it had been sitting outside for several years with motor covered, but that's another story) and went into the drain lines from the septic tank. It appeared the tank was not an issue but I pumped out the second side out onto a pasture field to be sure there was not issue there. The tank has two lines coming into it, one was clear the other had the clog about 35 feet from the tank, so had to add the other length of auger line, which put the clog close to the house. Once open it ran fine and has been good since. I suspect the old toilet wasn't flushing right to carry the waste out and it built up over time. The new one seem to work much better as it takes the waste down with a woosh, unlike the lazy flush of the old one.
 
If you are stumped and are short on time, it's time to call in a plumber. The cost may seem high at the time, but if they have the expertice to quickly pinpoint multiple problems and can fix them right on the first try, it can be more than worth the cost.
 
Plain and simple. Find a septic service that has the VIDEO Snake inspection device. The call out will cost ya around $150.oo but you can watch the laptop screen as they shove the video snake into your lines. You more than likely will find tree roots. You could have a collapsed line, ETC. Just do it for a very cheap piece of mind. Had a slow drain and they found a clump of tree root. Trick was, the Silver maple was like a GOOD 50 feet away.
 
Go buy an product called "Thrift" and use it first! Plumbing Supply house not Big Box stores will have it or a product similar...it will clean out the drain if it is stopped or clogged. Runs about $8 an pound. I use it when my drains get slow and it does not seem to affect my septic system!
 
I want to thank all of you for your suggestions. I got the issue fixed this evening. Just a simple clogged line, which is what I thought, and I got lucky and hit it just right. I cut the line, cleaned out the clog, and put in the first of 3 clean outs. Ill install those Saturday. Thanks again.
 
Don't ask for permission. I ran my washing machine drain up into my downspout piping, and it made a world of difference for the septic.
 
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