Stuck tractor engine.

Have an M that the engine is stuck in. Have been shooting PB Blaster in the cylinders and trying to rock it back and forth in 5th gear.
Would it be to my advantage to load it up and take it for a ride with the chains a little loose? Anyone done this before?
 
Jack it up on one wheel and shake it every time you walk by. But,I'll bet you end up pulling the head.Cause the rust is gonna ruin a cylinder wall. maybe a valve or two as well.
 
Go to the farmall IH forum. This was covered a couple of weeks ago. Go to page 7 and scroll down till you find " Stuck CUB ". I put on there about using an air hose. Give it a shot cause it really can work. Give it a try.
 
50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the miracle fix for stuck engines. I prefer a complete overhaul, but the guys who use the acetone/ATF mix swear by it.
AaronSEIA
 
I still free them my way with a hydraulic hose and another tractor. If that does not free it you will need a major overhaul or another engine.
 
Vibration seems to work well. Engine release has a guarantee for their product IF VIBRATED. Don't laugh too much. however I purchased an old fashion 120 volt vibrator basically shall we say not intended for engine use. On my F 20 and F30 with open hand holes fasten the unit to the crankshaft. works well for me. I do hide the thing when not in use in the shop.
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:37 09/23/17)
(quoted from post at 03:57:49 09/23/17) Load it on a trailer and go down the road with the tie down chains loose.

Never EVER haul a tractor with the tie downs loose. NEVER!!!!

I'm ASSUMING he is suggesting that as a method to create the aforementioned vibration. But you are absolutely correct. That is only asking for a much worse problem! I would NEVER attempt something like that!
 
well with your lack of information... first thing you must figure out why it is stuck. if the exhaust pipe has not been covered and has had rain leak in then just forget the soaking . it must come apart. if the pipe has been covered and it stuck from sitting due to condensation you can soak it and see if that works. no guarrantee it will though. even look at the plugs and cyl's with a light to see if rust is visible. best thing on those is to remove starter and use a 30 in. cat bar on flywheel teeth to try and get crank to move. i have done it this way once i have removed the head and cleaned out all rust from cyl's and honed rest of rust out and blew it all out and soaked for a week with dextron and mmo and even lit cyl's on fire for an hr. or 2 and still had to break top flange off sleeve to get crank to turn to get at rod bolts. then removed sleeve and piston as one stuck unit. that is why i say soaking does not eat rust. then there is the head and valves to deal with.
 
Over the years I have freed up a good many engines that had locked up. You first have to make sure the cylinders do not have any water in them or your wasting your time and $$. If the yare dry fill the cylinder's with ATF and also if it has a vertical exhaust pour ATF into the exhaust till it starts to leak out some place. Always put the plugs back in the keep dirt etc. out of the engine. Then after a week or so pull the plugs out and set a good 12 volt battery in it and use short fast taps on the starter button while watching he crank pulley for movement. I have freed up at least 30 tractors by doing that
 
Thank you for the responses. I'll just fill the cyl's with ATF and set it in the corner for about a year. I like the vibrator idea but don't want to open the engine up if I don't have to. If I open her up she will get a full rebuild. Thanks again Merle
 
(quoted from post at 10:27:32 09/23/17) I"m guessing an adapter screwed into the spark plug hole, and pumping hyd oil into it?

Won't work unless the valves are fully closed. Otherwise you just pump oil into either the exhaust, or the intake manifold.
 

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