So was going to replace the crankshaft sensor on a 2000 Oldsmobile intrigue, simple enough, looked on the net and it's located right behind the starter. Went to remove the starter bolts, and these bolts were tight tight, had to use a cheater, the long one came out, but I broke the short one, this is on an aluminum block. My question is, what are my best options to remove the bolt, is there something I can pour down the hole to eat away the corrosion, and help to ease the bolt out? Can you weld to it without making it worse in the aluminum? Or do I bit the bullet and start drilling? I do have access to muratic, and sulfuric acid.
- Thread starter jdv
- Start date
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
What do you have left of the bolt? If you have enough left to grab with a Vise-Grip, don't start drilling.
You need heat to loosen the bolt. It would have been easier to heat the head before you broke it off. Now you have to deal with what's left.
You need heat to loosen the bolt. It would have been easier to heat the head before you broke it off. Now you have to deal with what's left.
Brent Zappe
Member
Here is my two cents on this. I have been told some times I am wrong but if that was mine I would first try a left hand turn drill bit with a easy out on it. Left hand turning drill bits do wonders because they turn the right way to pull that bolt out. The bolt is harder metal that that block. Good Luck
I recently broke a metric bolt in an aluminum timing cover while changing the timing belt tensioner on a Mitsu engine in a Bobcat.
I got REAL lucky. I centerpunched it, then drilled it progressively larger 'till all that was left was the steel threads. I grabbed the end with a needle nose and pulled it out. Looked like a long stretched Helicoil.
Little, if any aluminum was removed.
I ran a tap in the hole and the threads looked perfect.
Just plain got darned lucky that I accurately centerpunch it and the bit went straight. I recommend sharp Cobalt bits, BTW.
I got REAL lucky. I centerpunched it, then drilled it progressively larger 'till all that was left was the steel threads. I grabbed the end with a needle nose and pulled it out. Looked like a long stretched Helicoil.
Little, if any aluminum was removed.
I ran a tap in the hole and the threads looked perfect.
Just plain got darned lucky that I accurately centerpunch it and the bit went straight. I recommend sharp Cobalt bits, BTW.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Depending on how much is still showing there can be a number of ways to remove it. I would if you can heat it up some and then pour ATF on it while still warm. If you can grab it with a pair of vise grips. If you cannot do that weld a washer on it and then a nut and while still hot pour some ATF on it. Or as said a left hand drill bit and a good easy out. Not a cheap hardware store easy out. I have a set of good easy outs but they cost me around $75 20 years ago and I have only broken one out of that set and it was one of the smallest ones in the set
teddy52food
Well-known Member
If you want a real headache, just drill it & use an easy out. Best weld a washer & nut . Good luck!
Ken Macfarlane
Well-known Member
Another vote for welder even though its recessed. Not many options. I've never had luck with drilling if there is any rust involved.
In a way having it 1/4" below the surface is good, you can put a transfer punch in the hole and get a center punch in the center. You might need to grind the tip of the broken off area flat with a Dremel tool so the center punch and drills will start good. Then drill it until you can just start to see the threads as a spiral in the hole. Then they probably will come out with some work with a pick and pliers. I know this might not work as it could be in a 8itch of a place. Good luck.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
If you have access to a drill press or mill, make a drill guide block.
Measure the center distance between the broken bolt and the good bolt hole. Be easier to measure the starter housing, you need a really good measurement, most likely be an on size metric dimension.
Get a piece of steel with a good flat bottom surface, probably about 2" tall. Drill a known straight hole on size to the bolt. Drill another hole smaller than the thread in the broken bolt. Bolt that block on with the small hole centered exactly over the broken bolt, use the guide to keep the drill straight. Keep enlarging the hole until only the thread is left. If you know the size of the bolt, look on a tap drill chart to see what the final size drill will be.
I know, this sounds like a lot of trouble, but if you drill off center, or drill crooked, (something extremely likely to happen trying to hand drill in an awkward position), your problems will quickly multiply!
Measure the center distance between the broken bolt and the good bolt hole. Be easier to measure the starter housing, you need a really good measurement, most likely be an on size metric dimension.
Get a piece of steel with a good flat bottom surface, probably about 2" tall. Drill a known straight hole on size to the bolt. Drill another hole smaller than the thread in the broken bolt. Bolt that block on with the small hole centered exactly over the broken bolt, use the guide to keep the drill straight. Keep enlarging the hole until only the thread is left. If you know the size of the bolt, look on a tap drill chart to see what the final size drill will be.
I know, this sounds like a lot of trouble, but if you drill off center, or drill crooked, (something extremely likely to happen trying to hand drill in an awkward position), your problems will quickly multiply!
john in la
Well-known Member
Could always try this. Have to heat the solution for a day or so with a small lightbulb. It does work though. Cousin broke one on an aluminum head and tried it. It did work. This guy is funny, but language is a little graphic sometimes. It did nothing to the aluminum.
Alum to eat bolt
Alum to eat bolt
Oh yeah, hthp is hot pink hockey tape. He has several good vids. And a bunch of not so good.
Another good one.
Another good one.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
If it is broken below the hole there is a Snap-On set that has guides to keep the drill centered and splined extractors you drive into the hole then a special nut goes onto that and you can wrench it out.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
Good video !
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