Ferguson TO-20 alternator

I have the alternator off, It is a Delco Remy; 8B28 12volt neg. also has 11C 2491 37A on it.
On the back end; 1 large terminal with nut. I would guess this where you would connect the live (hot) wire from the battery/Amp meter.
then there are 2 blade type connections on the rear side. looks like they have the numbers 1 (r) and 2 (f).
The guy I got this tractor from had wires from the battery side of the ignition switch to the large terminal and to #2 f. Both wires were live when the battery was connected but alternator did not work.
The alternator might be shot now. Let me know what you think.

I'm not getting those numbers to come up.

But from the description, the terminals marked R and F, leads me to think that is an older alternator than needs an external regulator.

If the terminals are side by side, like II, inside a square recess, it is external. If the terminals are end to end, like - -, then it is internal.

If it is the old external type, you would be better off to exchange it for a newer internal model.
Internal and External

This is an older style, externally regulated alternator. The large terminal goes direct to the battery +. It should be labeled "B+" near the terminal.

The F terminal is for the field. This wire generally goes through a switch on the ignition so the field is not energized all the time, and from there goes to the regulating relay. The R terminal goes to the R terminal of the external relay regulator.

The R wire senses the current amperage load on the alternator. There is another wire from the B+ near the battery that goes into the relay, to sense the voltage provided to the loads. The relay/regulator then adjusts the voltage of the field in the alternator to increase or decrease the output of the alternator to maintain battery voltage supplied.

The sensing of the battery current load will lower the voltage on the output of the alternator. The relay/regulator will compare the sensed voltage of the load, and the current output of the alternator, and depending on the comparison, the voltage in the field wire will increase to add amperage out, or it will decrease field voltage to limit the amperage supplied and thus maintain proper battery charge voltage of apprx 14.7 VDC.

If you are going to replace it, I would suggest you check the ext relay for operation, and take the alternator to a starter/alt specialty shop for testing. If you replace the alt and the relay is not working due to the contacts being shorted, or open, or damaged, you'll still have the same problem. You could also replace the alt with a similar case unit that is a one-wire which is internally regulated. The only wire it needs is the large B+ and maybe a ground to the engine.

8B28= Manufacturing date 196[b:ecb9b3ac14]8[/b:ecb9b3ac14] [b:ecb9b3ac14]B28[/b:ecb9b3ac14]=February 28th.
Could it be 1102491? That alternator was used on millions of Chevy's.
37A=37 amp capacity.
Have it checked at a shop to see if it has problems. It's easy to convert that series of alternator to a 1-wire setup.
BillL

Thanks Bill, Yes it could be 1102491. I'm told by others its an old 1980 Chevy PU series alternator.

Bill, I bought a new replacement alternator ( 3 wire) and a Ballast resister. It has the wiring instructions with it, But what size wires should I Use?
Main battery lead to big terminal ( 10 Ga.)? wire from terminal 1 to ignition switch thru resister? (12 or 16 Ga.)? Wire from Terminal 2 to the Bat.term on the Alternator (12 or 16 ga.) Or do I need to use a larger Gauge wire?
Kermit