Injection pump leak?

I have a John Deere 2510 with the big Rosa-master injection pump. It starts and works great but it seems like it is seeping fuel. Not enough to say there is the leak but the whole pump is always damp just enough that it is completely coated with dirt and dust. I use a premium diesel fuel from my local coop and none of the rest of my tractors have this issue.Does the pump just need to be resealed by a shop or are there other issues I need to check? I just hate the looks of it. Thanks Tom

Tom I would really look hard at the sealing washers on the injection lines. They can be a bear to get to seal correctly. I have had to double them up and use a new bolt to get some to stop leaking. Also the seals/orings around the throttle shaft can easily weep fuel.

With a book, an some common sense, they are not hard to take apart and reseal them. IF your not resetting the fuel delivery rate you do not need a test stand to work on these pumps. I have cleaned and replaced the governor dampener ring on hundreds of these pumps without any trouble. It takes about 3-4 hours to do it right and you just need to be clean.

I usually just do it on my work bench in the shop. Blow any an all dust/dirt/chips off the area and cover it with clean newspaper. You will need a vise to hold it as getting the head to pull out of the case can take some force but it is not hard to do. Just watch an get everything laid out in order. The easiest thing to mess up is the low pressure vane pump in the back of the pump. The outer ring can be install in either CCW or CC wise rotating. It is marked but it is easy to invert when you remove it and clean it. I take a picture with my phone anymore just to refresh my memory. LOL A seal kit is only around $25-30. If your replace the weight cage with a solid steel one that adds another $40 or so to the cost. So you can make pretty good wages doing it for yourself.

My IH 886 did that until it because a drip. It had a rotary style pump so it was a bit different than some newer Deeres. Dieseltech from this site did an awesome (and QUICK) rebuild of it last summer extremely reasonably. Less than half of anyone I had talked to. I got the pump back in the mail a week to the day after I sent it off. The tractor started right up using his installation directions and has run perfectly everyday. I'd highly recommend him. He'll be along sometime today I bet...

The fuel line seals are not that hard to change as JD pointed out. But sometimes they can make you talk funny getting them to seal. I would clean off the pump. See if you can find the leak. Before you start on it.

As others have mentioned thoroughly clean the area and keep blowing it dry with an air hose while it's running. Those line bolt banjo washers can be a challenge to seal as Stanadyne uses really hard washers. I prefer the Delphi/Lucas/CAV mild steel washers as they are a bit softer and crush slightly like copper washers do. There's also a chance one or more hydraulic head port has a chipped away hole right where the washer seals, when that happens then a larger OD washer is the only chance it will seal again. Also look where the hydraulic head enters the housing, that O ring can harden over time and leak like other O rings, have a JD 4320 pump on the stand now that leaked at the head O ring.

Lots of o-rings to get old and leak. Also the injection pumps are getting old and regardless if repaired or not, can have small scratches where the injector lines and banjo washers go. Using copper washers instead of steel often fixes the problem. Copper washer is Stanadyne # 11354.

You can buy a complete seal kit with all the new seals and washers for $15.

My guess would be the throttle shaft seal...

Is that a DBG or a JDB pump? Just one other thought. One many of these pumps - the internal housing pressure can get too high and they start to seep. Stanadyne uses a small housing-pressure-regulator on many. It has a small spring and ball and keeps internal pressure at around 4 PSI. When it starts to plug up, pressure inside gets much higher and leaks show up. If that IS the problem, often the cause of the regulator getting debris in it is from a failing pellathane weight-retainer ring.

my 2840 will do that, I now use outboard oil in my diesel and it stopped it...the dang road fuel is so crappy anymore...