Splitting stands

marcusoverholtzer · Dec 20, 2016

Need some insight on maybe welding up some jack stands for the rear axles when I pull the rims off for paint and for splitting at the clutch. Any ideas would be helpful thanks. Marcus

Janicholson · Dec 20, 2016

Wooden cribbing 2 and 4' 4X4s are really all that is needed in the rear. The front (depending on tractor is usually moved forward on roller equipped stands. Heavy iron casters on bearings using a welded frame to attach to the frame rails or bolster are needed. Google tractor splitting stands and you will see examples. Plans can be found in the same way. Jim

300jk · Dec 20, 2016

I have always used large blocks of wood for supporting axels. Like 12"x2' so they are sturdy. For frames I have made up supports from telspar which is basically sign post. Comes in two sizes so one can be slid into the other making it adjustable. Weld a large plate on bottom and drill whatever size hole you need. I also made a set out of pipe but instead of using a plate on the bottom I used scaffolding legs with the big wheels. That was nice for moving parts around the shop. Whatever you do make sure they are sturdy and can take the weight of the load you want to support.

Martin Reece · Dec 20, 2016

When I spit mine in three pieces ,I bolted legs with steel casters in the mounting holes for the loader. Make sure you drive a wedge between the front bolster to keep the front from pivoting side ways. The middle box I mounted on a hydraulic table. The rear I used a floor jack with jack stands. Also make sure you put a jack stand or cribbing under the hitch. The back end can flip over easily.
Cheers
Martin w

JMS/.MN · Dec 20, 2016

google Cofer Sales & Mfg.

showcrop · Dec 20, 2016

Like the others I would use wood cribbing under the axle when rears are off. When splitting at the center, the front is usually held stationary, so cribbing will work to hold a frame that bolts through or to holes in the frame. In order to make the rolling of the rear stable and safe, get a stout wheeled trailer jack and lean it against the side of the rear housing. Next find some holes on the side of the rear housing that you can bolt to. Then fabricate a bracket to attach the jack to the side of the rear housing using those holes and bolt it on. Insure that you have considerably more weight ahead of than behind the rear axle. Pushing on those big rear tires gives you good leverage making it easier than pushing the front. In addition the front is inherently more dangerous to move due to the front axle pivot.

Blackhole49 · Dec 21, 2016

A month ago you said you were putting that tractor away until next year, what changed? Second thought, I really don't care.

4wdtom · Dec 21, 2016

I prefer to block up and suspend the front end and make supports for the rear part that have a dolly under them and roll the back of the tractor back on it's rear wheels and the dolly. I think it is more difficult to make the front part stable for rolling than the rear, and being able to suspend the front is added insurance.

marcusoverholtzer · Dec 22, 2016

Still that way! Just planning and preparing. Go ahead and laugh thats ok.

Splitting stands

marcusoverholtzer

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Janicholson

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300jk

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Martin Reece

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JMS/.MN

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showcrop

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Blackhole49

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4wdtom

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marcusoverholtzer

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