Putting up a new fence to section off the property. It is not a boundary fence. I originally wanted to put up high tensile fence but after I cleared the path and strung a line, there is too many elevation changes. Obviously woven wire would be worst option for this fence because of the hills. I was thinking of going back to a barbed wire fence. 4-wire with the spacings being 16" from the ground followed by 10" spacings. The top and the second from the bottom would be hot or substituted with electric wire. Think it would be a good route to go? I would be used for cow/calf and for some brief periods steers that are calm and used to an electric fence.
- Thread starter Bkpigs
- Start date
Bradiniowa
Member
In my opinion the change in elevation should be a good reason to use high tensile. You can
tighten wire much easier as needed. As far as barb wire goes, we have put up a lot of it
with five wires, the middle one being electrified high tensile. It works well for our
cows/calves.
tighten wire much easier as needed. As far as barb wire goes, we have put up a lot of it
with five wires, the middle one being electrified high tensile. It works well for our
cows/calves.
redforlife
Well-known Member
From what I have been around high tensile, I wouldn't use it for anything. You can pull it
tight, but there is no stretch to it. Just pulls your corners out over time, and because of
no stretch, it doesn't stay tight. If it were me, I would do a 5 wire (regular barb wire)
fence. Not so high off the ground with bottom wire, and a closer spacing between wires.
Secrete to the up and down is to tighten the wire as you go when fastening the wire. Loosen
it up if nescisary when it gets to tight. Then tie it off to corner when done.
tight, but there is no stretch to it. Just pulls your corners out over time, and because of
no stretch, it doesn't stay tight. If it were me, I would do a 5 wire (regular barb wire)
fence. Not so high off the ground with bottom wire, and a closer spacing between wires.
Secrete to the up and down is to tighten the wire as you go when fastening the wire. Loosen
it up if nescisary when it gets to tight. Then tie it off to corner when done.
jicaseman89
Member
I don't know where you are but we started useing sucker rod panels and oil pipe for the posts never go back to anything esle put it up once and done. Little spendy but worth it.
Loren
Loren
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
I don't fence with anything but 16ft cattle panels anymore can buy them at TSC or Coop most of the time for $20 each and it takes 2 6ft Tee posts per panel once you get started.I usually can put them up for around $1.80 per foot, labor is cut way down,can take bolt cutters and shape to any contour or ditch crossing,will hold in goats,calves,hogs geese as well as cows.No stretching wire,braces,umrolling woven wire etc plus if a tree falls on the fence just take out a panel and replace it,most of the time I can bend the panel back enough to use it.Also if you have an existing fence just wire the panels up to it.Will never use wire fencing again.
jim buford
Member
That is what I have been doing for years. The newer panels are not as tough as the older ones but are still plenty strong.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
The ease of working with tensile vs barbed, and the
time saved, you won't go back to barbed.
You have to put H braces on your ends like barbed,
or it will pull them out, like barbed. You can go
around a 90 degree bend, or a few 45s, and still
tighten it with a spring and ratchet tensioner. Just
set a larger post as deep as you can for the corner.
You can vary the post spacing to properly follow the
terrain. Tamp the posts in well. At the bottom of a
canyon where the post is holding it down, you may
want to nail a board or something to the post to
help keep it in the ground. Or if you can bulldoze a
ramp, even better, whether barbed or tensile, being
able to drive along it makes building, checking, and
repair a lot easier.
Use a cordless impact driver and screws to put up
plastic pin-lock insulators. Use a color that stands
out against the post, it will save you time checking
fence later, I prefer white insulators.
Get the hottest fence charger you can find. Parmak
solar chargers are real good, if you don't have 110
available.
time saved, you won't go back to barbed.
You have to put H braces on your ends like barbed,
or it will pull them out, like barbed. You can go
around a 90 degree bend, or a few 45s, and still
tighten it with a spring and ratchet tensioner. Just
set a larger post as deep as you can for the corner.
You can vary the post spacing to properly follow the
terrain. Tamp the posts in well. At the bottom of a
canyon where the post is holding it down, you may
want to nail a board or something to the post to
help keep it in the ground. Or if you can bulldoze a
ramp, even better, whether barbed or tensile, being
able to drive along it makes building, checking, and
repair a lot easier.
Use a cordless impact driver and screws to put up
plastic pin-lock insulators. Use a color that stands
out against the post, it will save you time checking
fence later, I prefer white insulators.
Get the hottest fence charger you can find. Parmak
solar chargers are real good, if you don't have 110
available.
gene bender
Well-known Member
Hi -tensile will work sure have lots of it here in my area and we are not flat people with cow calf operations have used it for years aven back in the days when fences were hog-tight we did it on hills thats just the way it was done then and can work now just need to know how to make fence. So dont tell me you cant use woven wire either with steel posts or wooden ones. 42inch woven followed with three barbs and good anchor posts.
IHC pickups
Member
5 wire Red Brand barb wire with Pipe corners or if you have it or can get use Hedge. Other than fire will be there forever. Here in Eastern Kansas that is what is put in we keep the bottom wire 12 to 16" off the ground if not when burning season come it can get the bottom wire too hot if the grass is thick and tall. An old fence builder told me to space the brace post at least 10' from the corner post and keep just under where the top wire will be and you will not have to worry about pulling either out of the ground over time. Stretch it tight.
IHC pickups
Member
Forgot to say the brace pipe should be just under to top strand of bar wire.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
If you don't set a brace your barb wire fence will pull the end posts out, too, and use ratchets with springs, they'll keep it tight.
And don't use smooth wire, it stretches out something fierce. High tensile wire stretches but not much.
And don't use smooth wire, it stretches out something fierce. High tensile wire stretches but not much.
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