Allis chalmers WC rod and main bearings

Hi,
I'm working on rebuilding the engine of an old wc allis, this project was started 20 years ago by family member who didn't finish the job, anyway the reason I mention this is because the rod bearings were replaced at that time. Now I have restarted the job and I have found that I need to replace the main bearings, after some research ive found that the crank has been ground previously and has been stamped M 20 and R 20 with the letter R stamped underneath of those numbers. My measurments concur that the size is .020 smaller than original. my concern now is what bearings were put in for the connecting rods, my guess is that the original size bearings were installed meaning that these would be .020 too big. Can I verify this by putting the rod bearings in their holders and bolting them in without the crank being in the engine and then use a caliper to measure the I D of the bearing? see photo below
 
Look at the brngs it will say on them std or 10,20 or what ever on them that will tell you if they are for the ground crank
 
It just dawned on me that this is a perfect excuse to learn how to use plastigage!
I guess my photo was not attached!
 
Gene
I looked at the bearings and the only numbers I see on them are LM 12 53
but I put the bearing back and the bolts back in the rod and measured the ID of bearing at 2.34 and then went to crank and read same thing on the journals... I should be good eh?
I know a Gene Bender from Wisconsin are you from around that area?


thanks for the help!!
 
After 20 years i believe i would just start over. im sure everything needs cleaned back up again. If in any doubt i would pull the rod caps off and take the bearings out and check and see what size they are
 
no shim packs it turns out that the journals and the bearings mike up the same so I think I'm good. I just didn't give my brother credit for checking on that when I should have!!

thanks for responding!!
 
My understanding is All these engines came with a .010 shim pack under the MB caps. Unless the block and caps have been line bored to take care of this,you will need the shims.If you put the .020 mains in it and you tighten the caps and it locks the crank,you will need the shims.I'm working on a WD-45 right now,with the same set up.
 
hello welding man
you say your working on a WD which engine does it have? what year? thanks!
I know ive got more money into this tractor than it might be worth but there is more sentimental value than I can explain!
using this '39 WC to run a 100 year old sawmill that ive also rebuilt!
 

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