1962-1964 Ford 4000?

Hello all,
My name is Wewa and my Tractors name is George he is a 62-64 Ford 4000 blue & gray 2 wheel drive 4 cyl. Diesel, 2 speed clutch , 5 speed ,1 shift lever, and an oil bath breather filter.
So the clutch went out and I had it replaced. After it was back together it will not engage.
The flywheel turns with the engine on.
The tranny gears move when you roll the tires.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Has the linkage been adjusted after the clutch job?

Is there an inspection cover you can remove, take a look, see what's happening?

are you sure the clutch disc is not in backwards. also is the freeplay adjusted correctly? but you still would be able to shift
gears though. also what are meaning by not engage? trans wont wont go into gear?

(reply to post at 18:42:21 09/18/15)

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No adjustments have been made

You need to follow the instructions in the manual to
adjust the clutch. The new clutch will be much tighter
than the old one.

It could also be that the screws on the fingers were backed out a little. If this were the case they would have compressed the springs and disengaged the clutch as the transmission was bolted up to the motor.

OK, you have live PTO and a two-stage clutch. By "will not engage" I assume you mean the tractor doesn't move when it's in gear and you take your foot off the clutch. Does the PTO turn when it's in gear and the clutch pedal is up?

First thing, do you have any free play in the clutch pedal? You should have about an inch of pedal movement before you feel resistance. Lack of free play indicates that the clutch fingers are still depressed, which means something is not adjusted right. It is possible that the free play adjustment, which is a stop bolt, needs to be adjusted, but that doesn't make sense. A new clutch should have MORE free play, not less.

The two-stage clutch assembly needs to be adjusted by someone who knows what they're doing and who has the correct Ford adjustment fixture. Unfortunately, there are a lot of clutch rebuilders who don't have a clue how to adjust the two-stage clutch. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you can't get the tractor to work using the external clutch adjustments, you may need to split the tractor again, remove the clutch assembly and take it to your local CNH dealer who hopefully has a clutch adjustment fixture and knows how to use it.

That clutch needs to be adjusted on the bench using a special jig before you install it in the tractor.

If this was not done prior to you buying it or by you before installing it you need to take it back out and adjust it.

That clutch is changed as a unit. Rebuilder makes all adjustmemts at time of assembly at factory.

(reply to post at 11:02:56 09/19/15)

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Okay thanks all,
I will check the adjustment.
It has about 3-4 inches of free play.
It will be a couple weeks before I get back to Alabama to fool with it. But I am hopeful that things will be good after I adjust the linkage.

Clutch was 459.00
Labor was 450.00

You would think that the fella who came over to do the work would have tried adjusting the linkage. When he came over to tell me it needed a clutch, he actually removed the stopbolt while making his diagnosis..

Again thanks to all who responded,
Wewa (Tony)

(reply to post at 11:02:56 09/19/15)

Click to expand...

Okay thanks all,
I will check the adjustment.
It has about 3-4 inches of free play.
It will be a couple weeks before I get back to Alabama to fool with it. But I am hopeful that things will be good after I adjust the linkage.

Clutch was 459.00
Labor was 450.00

You would think that the fella who came over to do the work would have tried adjusting the linkage. When he came over to tell me it needed a clutch, he actually removed the stopbolt while making his diagnosis..

Again thanks to all who responded,
Wewa (Tony)

I am a HAPPY camper.....
It was the linkage, and it needed to be adjusted. That done, I'm finding out that after I put a new stop bolt in that I can really fine tune it. All the gears engage properly now and we are rolling along.

Also someone had switched him over to a 12 volt system. And we have had to change starters more than necessary.

George is running great after doing a few things. I've had him for about 15 years and I've always had to use starting fluid to get him to crank. And he would run all day as long as you didn't shut him off,,, but he would not crank back up if he was hot.
Well we took the tank off and cleaned it, and bought a starter that was for the 12 volt system and now he will start without ether and start after you shut him off and he is still warm.

Again THANKS TO ALL who shared your knowledge,
Wewa

I am a HAPPY camper.....
It was the linkage, and it needed to be adjusted. That done, I'm finding out that after I put a new stop bolt in that I can really fine tune it. All the gears engage properly now and we are rolling along.

Also someone had switched him over to a 12 volt system. And we have had to change starters more than necessary.

George is running great after doing a few things. I've had him for about 15 years and I've always had to use starting fluid to get him to crank. And he would run all day as long as you didn't shut him off,,, but he would not crank back up if he was hot.
Well we took the tank off and cleaned it, and bought a starter that was for the 12 volt system and now he will start without ether and start after you shut him off and he is still warm.

Again THANKS TO ALL who shared your knowledge,
Wewa