4010 turbo post

Donald Lehman

Well-known Member
In the 4010 turbo post below, I noticed no one but me mentioned overheating when turbo kitting 4010's and 4020's. Back in the day when it was the popular thing to do, around here the topic of how to keep the 4010-4020 kitted tractors from overheating was a common coffee shop subject. What are you guys doing now that we didn't know about back then? 150 hp? I never saw a 4010 pushed much over 120 that could keep a head gasket in it back in those days. Better head gaskets available now?
 
Better gaskets, and better head bolts,, larger fan, over-size radiator (extra row of cores), larger oil pan,, these things help with the over heating issues,,but it seemed that back then the radiators were not being blown out on a regular basis, if you have 1/4 or 1/3 of the radiator plugged with weed seeds and dust you are loosing a major part of your cooling capacity. I get a lot of them in here and I am amazed that they are so plugged up,,they just get over looked,,Darn it.. And of course ambient temperatures make a big difference too South Texas on a hot afternoon is way different than Fargo North Dakota on the same day..
 
Tim I am new to this deal and not sure just how to work all of it. I would like to talk to you about your turbo set ups if you don't mind.
Thanks
Bud
 
What type of improvement would you see if you left the pump at factory settings? Would it be more fuel efficient? Have you ever turboed a 3020?
 
(quoted from post at 09:20:57 07/11/15) Ever been to Fargo in mid August?

I was going to ask that. Yesterday, 90 miles south east of Fargo it was 85 and they expect somewhere in the 90's in the next day or to. Lake water temps were bumping 75 last weekend.

Rick
 
I have a 4020 with m&w turbo setup that has the fuel turned up 10%. The last owner installed the turbo for better fuel economy not to pull bigger loads it also makes the tractor more snappy to run. This tractor also has the seven blade fan and different fan shroud so running hot is not a problem. Increase the fuel and overheating could or would be a problem. The turbo also makes it quieter to operate.The only downside is that on hot days the tractor produces more engine heat than my nonturbo 4020 and that is only a problem for the one driving it. I would not turbo a 3020 as you can overheat them at normal fuel setting when working hard.I would buy a 4020 before I would turbo a 3020. Tom
 
Yes you will see some improvement, and maybe a bit more fuel economy,,and yes I have turbo-ed 3020's but it's a bit more difficult since there is not as much room under the hood...I have a 72 3020 here that I made a turbo kit for,that we use to run the feed grinder with, now it's only job is running a 250 side mount mower for trim mowing.
 
I have a friend that lives there and I know he talks about the nasty cold winters there,, I am in Central Ohio so that is about middle ground for weather, I was in South Dakota a couple weeks ago and needed a jacket..I was in South Texas 3 years ago in August and man o man it was hot there at that time..but a very hot day will make a difference on how cool an engine will run..
 
It is amazing how the turbo has evolved. When it was first used the idea was to maintain a given power at all altitudes, temperatures, barometric pressures etc. It used to be that the over road trucker would power out in the mountains and deserts etc. Now days, everyone wants to put in on to increase the horsepower of a tractor that the factory designed the entire tractor around the horses they put under the hood. I saw it all the time at work. Put on a turbo, just to clear up the smoke or maybe a couple more horse. Few weeks, can you turn it up a little bit. Later, could you give it just a little more. Talk about wild boost pressures and exhaust temperatures. The factories must have felt that since their customers were doing it they might as well do it also. Some of the specs you see for max exhaust temps are completely nuts. I compare it to riding a bicycle. It should move with minimum effort and when you have to push harder and harder on the pedals, that is the same thing that piston is doing on that crankshaft. Only one way to get more power out of an engine of a given size at a given rpm and that is to increase the pressure in the cylinder pushing that piston against the crankshaft. Looks like a waste of good iron to me like scrapping an old tractor that can still do some good work.
 
I'd say it is just less of an issue because of the tasks the tractors are used for. They are no longer the major tillage tractor. In a lot of cases they're the "hot rod" auger, rake and mower tractor. Not saying none are being used hard but I think you know what my point is. The coffee shop topic now is "how do you turn around your 48 row planter and re-engage the auto steer". Lol (that is in no way intended to lessen the importance of any farmers tasks and the difficulties they can face daily, just a light hearted poke)
 
It all depends on how they were run,but I know of 3 4010s turning 160-180 HP(M&W sleeves pistons) in early 60s on 3-4000 A farms(diff.people).Two of them never had any gasket or other major problems.6B plows 20Ft. disc.18.4 duals,one ran that way until the mid 80s and other then turbos not much was ever or even needed done.Wasn't many 3010s done,but what were done 95-110HP.Most 4010s-4020s were set at 120-140HP.So it could be done and was done with little problems.
 
The main reason that I see for turbocharging is this: Volumetric Efficiency.
Diesels in particular have a tendency to be sluggish and somewhat unresponsive when normally aspirated. Turbocharging brings them to life. And, since the air intake is un-throttled on a diesel, they are a natural for turbocharging.
Turbochargers basically DOUBLE the volumetric efficiency of an engine. That means that a 2-liter engine can perform the work of a 4-liter engine with a turbo. Fuel efficiency is an added bonus. The turbo only comes on when it is called for. That means that when you are using a 2-liter engine to work like a 4-liter engine, it only needs to be fed like a 4-liter engine WHEN IT IS WORKING!!!! When under light loads, boost is negligible, and so is fuel usage. There are also savings in weight. A turbo allows for a physically smaller engine that weighs less.
It isn't just all about racing, hot-rodding, or speed. Legitimate work comes into play as well.
 
what I was told by a good john deere mechanic, that knows his stuff, that the early 4020 had cooling problems in the back of the head, would not get good circulation , all we did was hang turbo on , did not turn up fuel
 
M@W made what they called a new life kit for the 4020 with turbo.Consisted of 5 row radiator with different top tank.seven blade fan with shroud then the high capacity aluminum oil pan .A another option was the pyro and a different type air cleaner.Our IH dealer loved the guys that did that they would come and buy a new 20 foot 480 tandem disk to pull with the hopped up 4020and allot of them went down like flies but my 806 just kept on going.
 
I understand volumetric efficiency quite well and know what a turbo does. My point is it allows you to over tax every component on the whole vehicle quite easily. If it was used just for what you indicated I would have no quarrel with them at all. It's just this constant, I want more, I want more. My tractor has x amount of horse power, what does yours have. Why does this thing always break down when I need it most.
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:12 07/11/15) M@W made what they called a new life kit for the 4020 with turbo.Consisted of 5 row radiator with different top tank.seven blade fan with shroud then the high capacity aluminum oil pan .A another option was the pyro and a different type air cleaner.Our IH dealer loved the guys that did that they would come and buy a new 20 foot 480 tandem disk to pull with the hopped up 4020and allot of them went down like flies but my 806 just kept on going.

My 4010 has some of those things. It has the m&w 5 Gallon oil pan along with the dry filter type air cleaner above the hood. It looks like the fan is a five blade (may be six, had to tell without moving things to get a closer look. I don't know about the radiator. It does have the pyrometer. It had M&W sleeves and pistons in it when I bought but one of them was damaged. I don't remember which one but it may have been #6. I put in a S&P kit from TISCO when I repaired it. I left the pump as it was and it dynoed out at 94HP.
 

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