8n conversion spin on oil filter

koenton

Member
Hello Everyone
Looking for a conversion spin on oil filter kit for a 1952 8n ford tractor. Can anyone give me the kit no and where to get it?
Thanks
 
I don't think any major filter manufacturer has a complete kit, although WIX (for one) sells a filter head and appropriate spin-on filters with a built-in flow restricter. You will need to fabricate mountings and round up the necessary fittings on your own.

Apparently, there's several independent machine shops that make them.

Ebay is one source.

Whatever way you decide to go, be SURE either the filter or the base has the appropriate flow restricter (as does the original canister filter) that is required to maintain oil pressure and only allow a small flow through the filter, or you will dump to much of the oil pump's flow, resulting in low oil pressure to the bearings.
 


Forgot to add that if you look on the 2n/9n/8n forum on here, you will find that most of the "experts" on these N's do not recommend this conversion for various reasons. If you do a search on this in the N forum, you will find lost of hostile posts toward this.
 
I have a Jubilee. It was converted to a spin on filter before I bought it. The engine was also totally rebuilt. Now some people say there is something wrong inside the engine, something not tight enough. Some people say it the filter's fault. The filter is horizontal. If tractor sits for a few day, more than half the oil in the filter will slowly drain back the crank case. So when you start up, it takes about 10 seconds to fill the filter, 10 seconds before oil pressure builds. I've tried every filter out there. Slowly the oil will drain back. You can see the extra oil on the dipstick. Start engine and then dipstick oil level will be correct. Keep in mind, I've tried every filter out there, same issue.

To cut down on the time it takes to fill the filter, I found the smallest filter, a delco filter. It too will drain back. Because it's smaller, it takes less time to fill up on start up. I had to remove the filter to put a new starter on. Took filter off, no oil leaked out of filter.

I'm not about to take engine apart. I'm not sure it the engine's fault. I would like to see if problem goes away, but I don't have what it takes to convert back to a can. So my solution is to use full synthetic oil. Hoping it gives better dry start up protection.

There will be some who say the filter I'm using is the problem. There is something loose inside the engine. I really don't care.

My two cents. Save your money, DON'T CONVERT TO A SPIN ON.
 
Your Jube is different than his N.
You have a full flow filter. His is a bypass filter.
Though I wouldn't convert either of them if I had one I would be even less inclined to convert an N.
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:54 03/01/15) I have a Jubilee. It was converted to a spin on filter before I bought it. The engine was also totally rebuilt. Now some people say there is something wrong inside the engine, something not tight enough. Some people say it the filter's fault. The filter is horizontal. If tractor sits for a few day, more than half the oil in the filter will slowly drain back the crank case. So when you start up, it takes about 10 seconds to fill the filter, 10 seconds before oil pressure builds. I've tried every filter out there. Slowly the oil will drain back. You can see the extra oil on the dipstick. Start engine and then dipstick oil level will be correct. Keep in mind, I've tried every filter out there, same issue.

To cut down on the time it takes to fill the filter, I found the smallest filter, a delco filter. It too will drain back. Because it's smaller, it takes less time to fill up on start up. I had to remove the filter to put a new starter on. Took filter off, no oil leaked out of filter.

I'm not about to take engine apart. I'm not sure it the engine's fault. I would like to see if problem goes away, but I don't have what it takes to convert back to a can. So my solution is to use full synthetic oil. Hoping it gives better dry start up protection.

There will be some who say the filter I'm using is the problem. There is something loose inside the engine. I really don't care.

My two cents. Save your money, DON'T CONVERT TO A SPIN ON.
"If tractor sits for a few day, more than half the oil in the filter will slowly drain back the crank case."
Doesn't matter George, whether factory can or spin on, they both use an 'anti-drain back' valve.....if you are generous in the use of the word "valve". Just a flimsy fiber/cardboard/maybe plasticized material inside the inlet of a spin-on and against the engine block behind filter mount with the factory can type. Oil pressure pushes it open & no pressure lets it relax to "seal" (again generous word usage) and prevent flow back out of the filter inlet into engine when stopped. Well, again being really generous, if that inlet check valve really functioned, you still end up with a half empty filter/can, because there is not a darn thing to prevent the filter contents from emptying out (down to half) via the filter outlet! Just the way it is & was designed. Life is tough!
 
I think I saw a relief valve at the end of the delco filter. Same filter used on today's cars. So wouldn't it have a pressure relief valve?

I'm just saying stay with the OEM can filter. I have no plans to do anything with the can on my farmall C. Some even say the spin on filter cost them an engine. Got a hole poked in the spin on filter when brush hogging and oil leaked out.

What is the big deal converting to a spin on filter? I like the can filter on Farmall. It gives me an opportunity to see what things look like, metal filings, dirt.
 
(quoted from post at 09:46:30 03/01/15) I think I saw a relief valve at the end of the delco filter. Same filter used on today's cars. So wouldn't it have a pressure relief valve?

I'm just saying stay with the OEM can filter. I have no plans to do anything with the can on my farmall C. Some even say the spin on filter cost them an engine. Got a hole poked in the spin on filter when brush hogging and oil leaked out.

What is the big deal converting to a spin on filter? I like the can filter on Farmall. It gives me an opportunity to see what things look like, metal filings, dirt.
on't know who you are directing that question to, George? If me, then I will say that pressure relief is not anti-drain back. Pressure relief is to allow a full flow type filter to be bypassed in the event the filter clogs enough to stop oil flow, the idea is that unfiltered flow is better than no flow.
Additionally, filters such as the FL-1A have many other filters that have matching threads and gasket size/position and they will install, BUT.....they are not all equivalent. Some will have anti-drain back, some will not. Some will have pressure relief bypass, some will not. Some will have neither & some will have both.
 
Thanks for all the info. Thank I will stay with what is on the 8n, didn't know they we having that kind of trouble. Thanks again for all the input.
 
If I'm not mistaken,the Jubilee came with a full flow spin on filter.The 8n's filter is a bypass type and there is a screen on the drain plug that goes around the sump and is considered a filter also.Mark
 
It almost seems like some of those guys just hate
for the sake of hating. They make some claims,
but data and specifics are spare, at least in the
thread's I've read.
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:58 03/01/15) If I'm not mistaken,the Jubilee came with a full flow spin on filter.The 8n's filter is a bypass type and there is a screen on the drain plug that goes around the sump and is considered a filter also.Mark
ull flow, but not spin-on.
 
Jessie, the delco filter I used was a sustitute
for the Napa gold filter I was using. It has both
anti drain and by pass. It will slowly drain
back, level with the hold that threads to the
tractor.

Reguardless, I may some day find the parts and
return my tractor to OEM filter to see what
happens. Bet anything I won't find extra oil on
the dipstick using OEM can filter.

Do you have instructions on how return it to the
can filter and what filter it would use?

I got to test the air intake heater on jubilee
today. 8 inches of snow. Tractor didn't skip a
heart beat under full load. Now I need to reset
the carb back to summer and return the plugs back
to white.
 
(quoted from post at 15:07:16 03/01/15) Jessie, the delco filter I used was a sustitute
for the Napa gold filter I was using. It has both
anti drain and by pass. It will slowly drain
back, level with the hold that threads to the
tractor.

Reguardless, I may some day find the parts and
return my tractor to OEM filter to see what
happens. Bet anything I won't find extra oil on
the dipstick using OEM can filter.

Do you have instructions on how return it to the
can filter and what filter it would use?

I got to test the air intake heater on jubilee
today. 8 inches of snow. Tractor didn't skip a
heart beat under full load. Now I need to reset
the carb back to summer and return the plugs back
to white.
have to disagree George, as anti-drain back affects only the inlet to filter & not the center tube outlet, so they will all drain back to half full on that basis alone. If anti-drain back isn't functioning it will drain down to less than one half. Look at the oil passages pictured. Parts you need are shown in other pictures.

on the right you see the anti-drain back fiber diaphragm & securing "nut" for lack of better term which accepts canister bolt.

 
Your comment about being sure you get the correct filter with built in restrictor, reminds me of a deal with cars back in the late 50's.

The little Rambler 196 inline 6 cyl, had a spin on BYPASS filter with built in restrictor.

Problem is, they had the same thread and gasket as the new (57) Ford, full flow spin on filter.

Big problems if you grabbed the wrong filter.
The full flow filter with no restrictor installed on the Rambler, drastically reduced it's oil pressure, as most of the oil dunped through the bypass filter system.
Even worse, getting the restricted Rambler bypass filter on the Fords full flow system, resulted in almost no oil to the Ford engine.
 
A lot of them just can't stand anything on or in an N that Henry Ford didn't personnaly put there.
But they have no qualms about using modern oils, modern rubber, modern metalurgy in the rings, etc and modern paint to make them sparkle like jewlery.
They especially love to paint the 9N/2Ns red and gray but those were all a smokey gray from the factory.
C'est la Vie
But the add on oil filter is kind of a waste of money IMO. A bypass filter only filters about 15% of the oil and the canister filter that came on them is plenty adequate for that.
 
Thanks to all who commented on my tractor 8n conversion kit, after all comments I think I better stay with what I have.Thanks again for ever ones input. Don't have any trouble with it now and don't want to have any. Restored it in 2010 and rewired it to 12v. Every thing works fine so better stay as is.
Thanks again
 

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