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Ford 9N won't start after sitting for the winter

S

SnohoFarmer

Member
We put our Ford 9N away last fall in running condition, but now it won"t start. We can turn it over freely but it won"t catch, even when spraying starter fluid directly into the carburetor. We know we"ve got the fuel line open because we have a very slow leak in the fuel line where it goes into the carb, and that drips like usual. So fuel is getting to the carb. We checked the lines to see if any mice had nested in there over the winter and chewed on the lines; nope. It was covered all winter so we know water didn"t get in anywhere. We then thought maybe we had old gas. We didn"t have much in the tank anymore anyway, so we drained off the gas and refilled with fresh. Still no luck. So the next thing we"re going to test is whether we"re getting 12 volts at the distributor terminal (yes, this is a 6V to 12V conversion). But we"re running out of ideas for why it won"t start. Anything else we can check?
 
Make sure you have good blue/white spark at the plugs.
If this was stored where it is cold, the metal sweats.
That creates moisture in the distributor.
You may have to take the distributor off and dry it out.
Clean and re-gap or replace the points while you have it off.
I like to use Blue Streak points from Standard.
They cost a little more, but they last longer.

Edit - BTW, you'll only read 12V at the coil while the points are open.
It will be closer to 6 volts or so when they're closed, that's normal.
 
More than likely just some corrosion on the points.
Put a test light on the distributor to coil lead. Crank. If it flashes it is not the problem. If no flash, points. Jim
 
I second what Royse said about the checking for spark. If your are not comfortable checking for spark with just a spark plug get an inline spark tester. It will tell you right away if you are dealing with a spark problem.

here is a link to one
Spark Checker
 
Lots Lots of experts over on the 9n, 2n, 8n forum.

But...pull the drain at the bottom of the carb and make sure you have good flow there. If it slow or trickles, check the three screens. One in the carb elbow, one in sediment bowl, and one in the tank on top of the bowl assembly.

Pull plugs and make sure you have good blue/white spark on each one.

With ignition off, crank engine with your thumb over spark plug hole feeling for compression at each cylinder.

Is battery fully charged? Checking for proper voltage at the coil is a good test to start.
 
I've always had luck having my son push the tractor, and I jump on and throw her in gear.
Try push starting the old girl
 
Bet you a case of beer the points are corroded so you have no spark. Most of the time when you shut an engine down the points are close so then it sits for days, week or month the points corrode so you in turn have no spark. ALWAY if you have a no start check spark blue/white and jumps a 1/4 inch gap at ALL 4 plug wires. Next pull the carb drain plug and check for a good steady flow of gas for a few minutes. Catch the gas to check for water/dirt etc. If I have posted this once I have posted this 1000 time
 
If he has a weak yellow/orange spark, we know it's not good.
If he has a good blue/white spark, chances are it will get him started.
I find it difficult to measure that gap on the N's without a helper since
the plugs are tucked up under the hood on top of the flat head.
Even more so on machines that are painted so there's no bare metal.
Bending a spark plug out that far tends to make them spark to the outside
edge which isn't a 1/4 inch either, so that didn't help me measure it.
Can you suggest a good way to measure that gap without an assistant?
I'm always willing to learn, so I certainly won't take offense to a new method.
 
I do not use a plug for the 1/4 inch gap I just hold the plug wire that far from the block and that way if you have a foul plug it does not make the test not work. I got jumped years ago about the blue white spark that if it did not jump far enough was still to weak so do not just say the color any more. I would say who jumped me but he and I do not agree on much
 
You dont need a test light.The ammeter will flick back and forth about 5 amps when cranking if the points are making contact.The ammeter is the best trouble shooting tool you have.
 
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