Axle/Hub Spline Repair ?

pburchett

Member
My Honda ATV has a splined rear axle and hub with the hub being held on by a castle nut. Someone at the factory 20 some years ago did not get the castle nut on exactly tight and has caused the splines (about 40 splines on a 2 inch axle) of both the axle and hub to wear about half away. I can get a new hub which will fix half of the problem but what can be done about the axle? I do not want to replace the axle or weld the old hub onto the axle. A guy at work said there was a repair plastic or epoxy that he has seen used on semi truck drive shafts but does not know anything more. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
Only thing that comes to my mind is JB Weld. Put it on the axle then put the hub on and let it harden,but the result is going to be about the same as if you had welded it on. You'll play heck ever getting it back off.
 
I welded one together 15 years ago and still going strong.

The axle and hub were shot already so I had nothing to loose.

Figured I would replace the parts when somthing else on the axle caused problems. That may never happen.

I would do it again if needed.

Gary
 
After 20 some years, I agree with IA Gary. If not,
go on ebay and get a used axle. One for my 97
Polaris (bent) only cost $75 including shipping.
 
Loctite make a product just for your problem. It will fill in the gaps and cure hard. You clean both mating parts. Then apply the Loctite on both and assemble. Wait 12 hours and it is as good as welded but if you ever want it back apart just heat it up to 250-300 degrees and it will come back apart.

I would use it over JB Weld. I am not a big fan of JB Weld. It is just a hard setting epoxy. Some guys think it is God's answer to everything and use it in places where it should NOT be used.

Here is some more info on the Loctite produce you need:
"Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds are single component adhesives. After assembly, Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds cure due to the absence of air and contact with metal to form a tough thermoset plastic. They completely fill all voids between mating surfaces. The good adhesion to metal surfaces and high cohesion of the adhesive layer provides high shear strength."

The Product you need is.

Loctite® 6300

Application Retaining
Strength High
Colour Green, fluorescent
Viscosity (Brookfield) 350 mPa·s
Thixotropic No
Tensile Shear Strength 20 N/mm²
Service Temperature Range Up to 175°C
Package Size 50 ml, 250 ml
 
I had one like that too. I bored out the hub, welded up the axle & turned it to fit the hub. Then cut and fitted a key. It lasted for the life of the wheeler.
 
I rebuilt the rear gearbox and brakes on our '93 Honda FourTrax last year (too many trips through the river), and in the process of driving the hub off the axle I mashed the end of the axle where the castle nut threads on. The rest of the axle was fine, and I thought about welding it up, but since I had the whole thing apart, I spent $110 on a new aftermarket axle. Now I have the peace of mind that it is correct, and if anyone buys if from us, they will be buying something that isn't going to fail as a result of me cutting corners. However, in your case, I can understand why you would not want to tear it all apart- it was a job that required a torch!
 
(quoted from post at 07:24:50 04/09/13) Loctite make a product just for your problem. It will fill in the gaps and cure hard. You clean both mating parts. Then apply the Loctite on both and assemble. Wait 12 hours and it is as good as welded but if you ever want it back apart just heat it up to 250-300 degrees and it will come back apart.

I would use it over JB Weld. I am not a big fan of JB Weld. It is just a hard setting epoxy. Some guys think it is God's answer to everything and use it in places where it should NOT be used.

Here is some more info on the Loctite produce you need:
"Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds are single component adhesives. After assembly, Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds cure due to the absence of air and contact with metal to form a tough thermoset plastic. They completely fill all voids between mating surfaces. The good adhesion to metal surfaces and high cohesion of the adhesive layer provides high shear strength."

The Product you need is.

Loctite® 6300

Application Retaining
Strength High
Colour Green, fluorescent
Viscosity (Brookfield) 350 mPa·s
Thixotropic No
Tensile Shear Strength 20 N/mm²
Service Temperature Range Up to 175°C
Package Size 50 ml, 250 ml

Locktite 6300 is an Europe only product but they suggested Locktite 660 QuickMetal
 
In Saugerties, N.Y. There is a company called
Nacs, They have an extensive ATV junkyard and
might quite possibly have the parts you need.
I don't know where you are located but it is
a possibility. Hope I can help.
 
I have used Lock tite #271 Stud n bearing mount a few times on stuff that was shot shot. It worked ,
Sounds like it might work for you too.
 
About 10 or 12 years ago the daughter of a classmate of my wife's was killed when an ATV wrecked when a wheel and axle separated. She said that was a VERY sad funeral.

I vote for a new axle and/or hub to fix it RIGHT.
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:58 04/09/13)
(quoted from post at 07:24:50 04/09/13) Loctite make a product just for your problem. It will fill in the gaps and cure hard. You clean both mating parts. Then apply the Loctite on both and assemble. Wait 12 hours and it is as good as welded but if you ever want it back apart just heat it up to 250-300 degrees and it will come back apart.

I would use it over JB Weld. I am not a big fan of JB Weld. It is just a hard setting epoxy. Some guys think it is God's answer to everything and use it in places where it should NOT be used.

Here is some more info on the Loctite produce you need:
"Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds are single component adhesives. After assembly, Loctite anaerobic Retaining Compounds cure due to the absence of air and contact with metal to form a tough thermoset plastic. They completely fill all voids between mating surfaces. The good adhesion to metal surfaces and high cohesion of the adhesive layer provides high shear strength."

The Product you need is.

Loctite® 6300

Application Retaining
Strength High
Colour Green, fluorescent
Viscosity (Brookfield) 350 mPa·s
Thixotropic No
Tensile Shear Strength 20 N/mm²
Service Temperature Range Up to 175°C
Package Size 50 ml, 250 ml

Locktite 6300 is an Europe only product but they suggested Locktite 660 QuickMetal

That is funny because I have a container of it in my cabinet that is only about three weeks old. I got it from a supplier in Cedar Rapids. It is just called Retaining compound. There was an older number that was three digits but I don't remember the number right now.
 

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