What a day!

JayinNY

Well-known Member
I can't believe the way things are made today! Im driving my 2000 f250 down the road, I push the overdrive button in, to take it out of overdrive, all the sudden my gauges all shut off and motor dident want to accelerate, what the heck, well I put a new fuse in and it blows right away, so my brother using his IPhone googles the problem, apparently the wires in the shift leaver go bad and short out. I can understand that, but why have it tied into the gauges and why would truck not accelerate?? Seem like a poor design to me. Well any way we called a ford dealer a few miles away and I had to replace the whole shift leaver, $75.00 bucks. Lucky I removed ignition, cover ect and unplugged the power going to the od on/off button, got home and slapped new shift lever in! Thank god for iPhones and google.! Lol
 
They do wire them up good!
But, it's 13 years old now, and you only had to spend $75, not too bad all in all.
 
No wasent bad at all! I just got scared pulling a trailer and
losing power on the busy rd we were on, lucky we pulled into
a grocery store parking lot!
 
I hear nothing but bad experiences with all these computerized vehicles. The speedometer quit on my '95 Ford F-150; causing the transmission to quit shifting and after hundreds and hundreds of dollars, much hate and discontent, it was the seat belt relay gone bad.
On my daughters '09 Cobalt, the battery went dead, and after hundreds and hundreds of dollars again, and much more hate and discontent, it turned out to be the transmission control module.
What I don't like is all of the integrated electronics. If one thing shorts out, why does it have to affect everything else on the vehicle? We need simplicity, not complicity.
 
It can go the other way, too- was looking at a '01 Buick Park Avenue, marked down from 4K to 3K, because radio and driver's power seat didn't work- they (a GM dealer, no less) figured it was "some kind of module", didn't want to mess with it. I got 'em down to 2500, looked under the back seat, and a fuse was blown. New fuse fixed it right up.

Great deal. But since then I've spent more than the value of the car- transmission, engine, intake manifold, starter, etc. But the computer is still running strong!
 
Neighbor got a zero turn mower that wouldn't start from a local dealer for $250 because the mechanics gave up on it. Turned out the interlock on the seat didn't work if the seat was pushed all the way back. After he slid it up a notch the mower works fine.
 
Back in 1990. I spent 8 weekends during the heat of the AZ summer to keep our 2 Fords and 1 Chevy running. In the fall, I bought a Toyota pickup; drove it 174K with no problems. Now drive a Tundra (115K) and a Camry (30K); don't do anything but change the oil and rotate the tires.

Nice to drive vehicles that don't give a lot of trouble.
 
I hear u, this truck has 180000 miles on it, pulls a trailer 5 days a week, this Is first electrical problem, other than that only needed a water pump and alternator. This is also a 7.3 powerstroke diesel. Iv had great luck with it.
 
That is why I have four first generation Dodge diesel pickup trucks. They are the old body style that has ZERO computers involved with the engine. All are manual transmissions too. There is one for the anti lock brakes. I usually just remove the fuse and take the control box out of the brake system. I don't like anti lock brakes on a truck that you are pulling a trailer with anyway.

I have had several newer cars and they have been nothing but head aches.
 
I am scared to get anything newer then I got. Brother has a new pickup and had to have a tire fixed. Throwed it in the back end. And the next morning it said only had 10 pounds in it laying in the back. Back to the shop to have it fixed again.
 
Most electrical cr@p is made in mexico now, so no wonder the quality sucks. How about my wife's Torrent/(same as a Equinox). The heater failed cold this winter. "blend" door broke. A very common issue-thousands of complaints, all the same. Price to fix...around 1,000$!
 

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