- Thread starter cooop
- Start date
Kow Farmer
Well-known Member
I can't back up a hayrack if my life depended on it. So I cheat and use my skidloader...much easier. LOL Good luck.
Kow Farmer
Kow Farmer
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
I put a hitch on the front of a tractor. Just turn around and push. Works for me.
I assume this is a 4-wheel trailer/wagon w/steerable front axle? Practice, practice! The closer to where you're going, the better. Lots of folks want to pull way out in front and be lined up with the opening; if you've got room, far better to pull up at right angles to the opening and back from there. With a little practice, you'll be good enough to do it with a pick-up, though you might have to pull up a time or two.
I will admit, you need lots of practice, or the right tractor (some have preferences). Neighboring farmer I helped with hay, his son preferred the ole JD 620 narrow front, and could stuff all their loaded wagons into the barns, I used to stage them, if he was baling, when done, I would help by signaling, blind spots etc., he was good at it, been doing it so long etc. His dad would laugh when I tried it with the JD 3150, sometimes I win, sometimes the wagon wins, its just that front turning axle, that makes usual trailer backing maneuvering look easy, as you have to think opposite from what you normally do.
I think the easiest way is a front hitch, or having a fork with a hole in it for a pin on your tractor, skidsteer or what have you. At our place, the hay is bought from the field, wagons dropped at our barns, I used the fork on the loader, but did not want to drill a hole in one, devalue it etc., most times I can keep enough pressure on the tongue without a pin and get it out of the barn to roll by hand. I had a photo of the JD 620 and several full wagons, darned phone got washed and so did the photos, took it a apart immediately, dried it down, placed in rice, no go.
I think the easiest way is a front hitch, or having a fork with a hole in it for a pin on your tractor, skidsteer or what have you. At our place, the hay is bought from the field, wagons dropped at our barns, I used the fork on the loader, but did not want to drill a hole in one, devalue it etc., most times I can keep enough pressure on the tongue without a pin and get it out of the barn to roll by hand. I had a photo of the JD 620 and several full wagons, darned phone got washed and so did the photos, took it a apart immediately, dried it down, placed in rice, no go.
The longer the tractor drawbar the better. Old tricycle style (narrow front wheels) work better than standard tread. Faster steering. Otherwise, go slow while learning and visualize yourself pushing the wagon back by hand. Make the wagon tongue go exactly where you'd put it if you were pushing it back by hand. Helps if you can see the back end of the wagon because that's really what you're interested in positioning. Practice, practice. The Tech Schools around here usually have a loaner tractor and both two wheel and four wheel wagons for students to practice with. In the old days, with rear end unloading wagons, we had to back as many wagon loads of silage as it took to fill 14x40 silos. Hundreds of loads had to be backed.
Go as slow as possible. I use a 1650 or 1850 Oliver and in R1 with the tractor engine at an idle I'll tilt the steering wheel up and sit on the fender so I can see where the back of the wagon is. This technique has taken some practice to perfect but I don't need to pull ahead very often.
old popper
Well-known Member
Yep, and some of us boys never grew up. LOL
Backing up a boat trailer with out the boat on it is always great fun.Cant see it because of the tool box so I clamp a bike flag on the back of the trailer so I can get some idea of where the trailer is.My brother in law was after me to put a hitch on the front of the truck.Waited too long he passed on last Friday.We had some good times fishing.
Dan in North Houston
Member
I once bought hay from a farm where they had a kind of upright brush guard mounted on the front of a Farmall M, faced with an upright 2x6 that stuck up about 6 inches above the top of the brush guard.
Each of their haywagons had a siminar 2x6 mounted upright in the center of the back of the hayrack, at the same height to match the tractor's upright. They also had a short loop of chain hanging around the board, with the loop just big enough to go over both boards when the tractor was pulled up against the wagon "board to board". When hitched up, they could then pull the wagon back out of the shed or push it into the shed while someone at the front picked up the tongue and "steered" it. The upright boards on the tractor and the wagon had enough free end sticking up so that they could move up or down relative to each other when moving over uneven ground - there would be enough board so that the chain would not slip off either of the boards. It was a slick way to move the wagons around. It only took a few seconds to hook up or unhook, since the driver just had to pull up until the boards touched and throw the chain over them. It did take two people for most applications, but if the tongue was set straight, you could pull them back out without a helper at the front.
Each of their haywagons had a siminar 2x6 mounted upright in the center of the back of the hayrack, at the same height to match the tractor's upright. They also had a short loop of chain hanging around the board, with the loop just big enough to go over both boards when the tractor was pulled up against the wagon "board to board". When hitched up, they could then pull the wagon back out of the shed or push it into the shed while someone at the front picked up the tongue and "steered" it. The upright boards on the tractor and the wagon had enough free end sticking up so that they could move up or down relative to each other when moving over uneven ground - there would be enough board so that the chain would not slip off either of the boards. It was a slick way to move the wagons around. It only took a few seconds to hook up or unhook, since the driver just had to pull up until the boards touched and throw the chain over them. It did take two people for most applications, but if the tongue was set straight, you could pull them back out without a helper at the front.
HA - just had this dilema two days ago - passed the barn, realized the tires needed some air - couldn't back up to the barn to fill them to save my life.
Too many cars and other stuff in the way to do a loop back.
Said to heck with it, I'll take my chances, brought the wagon to the field, loaded it with hay...
Lets just say thank god for portable compressors.
I then swore to myself I'd learn how to back one of those things up properly if it's the last thing I do.
Too many cars and other stuff in the way to do a loop back.
Said to heck with it, I'll take my chances, brought the wagon to the field, loaded it with hay...
Lets just say thank god for portable compressors.
I then swore to myself I'd learn how to back one of those things up properly if it's the last thing I do.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
It involves practice, practice, practice. Doesn't matter what you use for a tractor. Back an empty hay rack around in the yard while no one is watching until your neck is sore and your clutch leg aches just to get the feel of it. Some of those old running gears under hay racks are loose and slow and unresponsive and some are a breeze. If you start getting a little crooked, stop and pull ahead a bit and do it again. Don't wait until you're way jackknifed to stop. I used to be able to back a wagon or rack anywhere, but then I started driving a semi and got pretty good at backing a semi. Now I can't back a wagon worth a darned anymore. Jim
Adirondack case guy
Well-known Member
You mean something like this push guard on this Case 990. This tractor has pushed hay wagons up into our haymows for 20yrs. It replaced a Case SC that did the same thing for years. Notice also that it has a receiver hitch which we can hook onto tongues of imps. to back wagons into the storage shed quickley when a summer shower comes along unexpectidly. The vertical wood rails protect the wagon racks.
The front of this tractor was pretty beat because the old grill guard wasn't rugid enough. I repaired the damaged hood, welded up this guard, and repainted the whole tractor before the haying season began.
The front of this tractor was pretty beat because the old grill guard wasn't rugid enough. I repaired the damaged hood, welded up this guard, and repainted the whole tractor before the haying season began.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I personally can back a hayrack easier with a pickup than a tractor which isn't any problem either.
Nate V. IA
Member
Thurlow is right, it is much easier to back it on an arc. Backing up straight with my old sloppy equipment takes forever.
My grand father had me practicing backing a wagon in the wheat field while waiting on the combine bin to fill. We unloaded the wheat on a flat bed wagon into bags at that time. The advise my grand father gave me was to watch the pin where whe wagon attached to the drawbar and move the pin as I would my hand on my toy wagon. Seemed to work for me as I still watch where the drawbar pin or end of the tongue is to how much I want to turn the wagon
My all time favorite backing tractor was a Case 430 tricycle. Got to where I could put a four wheel wagon anywhere you wanted it. Most want to try to steer too much. Small steering inputs will go a long way at the back of the wagon. I found it best to go a little faster than a dead idle, seems like it helps keep from steering too much.
My all time favorite backing tractor was a Case 430 tricycle. Got to where I could put a four wheel wagon anywhere you wanted it. Most want to try to steer too much. Small steering inputs will go a long way at the back of the wagon. I found it best to go a little faster than a dead idle, seems like it helps keep from steering too much.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Didn't read all the responses and might be repeating some/all the recomendations. A narrow front end (tricycle)tractor is a great start. Don't use big steering inputs, they can quickly get you in trouble; try and align the wagon with the opening and use small steering inputs. A really great solution is to have a front end hitch thereby be able to easily see wagon motion. Worst configuration is a two cylinder tractor with standard rear hitch, hand clutch and the high speed reverse. I can get it done with a Waterloo two cylinder but it usually isn't pretty.
Roger in Iowa
Well-known Member
One trick to remember for 4 wheel wagons is turn the top of the steering wheel in the way you want the rear of the wagon to go.
For two wheel wagons, turn the bottom of the steering wheel in the driection you want the rear of the wagon to go.
Still takes practice, especially 4 wheel wagons!
For two wheel wagons, turn the bottom of the steering wheel in the driection you want the rear of the wagon to go.
Still takes practice, especially 4 wheel wagons!
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I agree with Ellsworth. Keep frt wagon wheels going as straight as one can. I back 4 wheel wagons with a pick-up or any tractor. My father started me backing wagons in the mid 50's when I was 12.
Bill in IL
Well-known Member
Always watch the tounge of the wagon. Make the tractor move the tounge just like you would if you were pushing it by hand. Try not to get the tounge too far left or right unless you can brake and follow it around with the tractor.
Its hard if you have a loose drawbar or loose tounge. Empty wagons are hard too cause the front will not react as well.
Pickup is hard too cause it doesn't turn near short enough so you have to be careful to not steer the wagon more than you can correct.
FWA tractors you can about forget it. They turn like a pickup.
Its hard if you have a loose drawbar or loose tounge. Empty wagons are hard too cause the front will not react as well.
Pickup is hard too cause it doesn't turn near short enough so you have to be careful to not steer the wagon more than you can correct.
FWA tractors you can about forget it. They turn like a pickup.
Dan in North Houston
Member
Similar to what you have, only his was much narrower.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy