ot Freezer update pics

Here are picsof what I have. checking for continuity and everything seems fine - I think. On the 4 post unit,I get continuity with all combinations. Little black box down in the corner has continuity. On the thermostat the green wire has continuity with a bare post behind it. The green wire does NOT have continuity with the black booted wire beside it. There is another black booted connection behind the first black boot - the two boots have continuity with each other - but only each other. When I tilted the freezer forward to inspect the bottom OIL RAN OUT!

Further inspection reveals a bowl like area under the large black cylnder and there is a puddle of oil in it.

it can only be a few things, on the thermostat, disregard the green as it is just a ground, jump out the 2 blacks, plug in and see what happens, if it comes on the t stat is bad, if it don't then the overload my be bad on the compressor, or the capacitor may be bad if thats what the oil is coming out. they make a real easy aftermarket start relay that you can find and it does away with all of it on the comprssor and if that doesn't do it, its time for another freezer as the compressor is bad.

(quoted from post at 20:37:40 11/07/11) Here are picsof what I have. checking for continuity and everything seems fine - I think. On the 4 post unit,I get continuity with all combinations. Little black box down in the corner has continuity. On the thermostat the green wire has continuity with a bare post behind it. The green wire does NOT have continuity with the black booted wire beside it. There is another black booted connection behind the first black boot - the two boots have continuity with each other - but only each other. When I tilted the freezer forward to inspect the bottom OIL RAN OUT!

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Should be no oil visible. It should be sealed up in the compressor , lines, cond, evap along with the freon. If oil got out, so did freon, so even if it runs, it won't cool. After the freon leaked out, the compressor probably tried to run (without usual return freon to cool it) and cooked itself to death....thus no run.

This is a googd example of no mader what it is someone on this sight knows something about the problem.Yea I know this is a tractor sight. Neighbor helping neighbor. Stan

Do you get any cold in the freezer at all now? From your other post, it sounded like it worked once in a while... or was that ONLY the light that worked once in a while but you didnt ever get cold now?

The reason I ask is, because your first picture shows the start switch, which does the same thing as a start capacitor. These go out very frequently, about 90% of the small fridges and freezers you see on the side of the road have one of these failed. Fix the switch and the fridge or freezer works fine.

The switch allows the compressor to start, when a switch dies, [i:cc779c9d69]sometimes[/i:cc779c9d69] the compressor will still start, sometimes it doesnt. Sometimes it fails and you can get the freezer/fridge to run by unpluging it and then plugging it in again. If your fridge/freezer starts and hummms but dont get cold, put your hand on the compressor. If its warm/hot, its because the compressor is locked and getting hot. Thats a sign the start switch has failed. If you are having a problem with your fridge/freezer working and then stopping and then working again, its almost 100% chance its that start switch. Its stupid easy to test too, most compressors are made by the same company so you just need a known good working unit and swap that good start switch with your questionable one.

If your compressor is leaking oil.... well..... black friday sales are comming pretty soon, so you got that going for you.

(quoted from post at 19:37:40 11/07/11)

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What I said was for it if it was not trying to run at all I must of missed the other post. Good luck you really need someone to look at it that knows about these. This was two things that i descibe that happens. If it has any age to it your best bet would be find another one.

jmor is right on target, if you have oil running out the sealed system is toast, this looks like a warm wall unit, has steel condenser tubing which rots out over time.
better go shopping.
good luck.

don deere

jmor is right on target, if you have oil running out the sealed system is toast, this looks like a warm wall unit, has steel condenser tubing which rots out over time.
better go shopping.
good luck.

don deere

Well I plugged it in, it humms and you can feel it run, gets very hot and no cool air. Traced the oil leak to the coil where it enters the compressor. Guess I'll see if the neighbor can use it for feed storage- can't think of any other uses - any idea? 8' long, 4' wide and 3 1/2' deep, too small for a deer blind!