Tractor tire Ballast

I have a nearly new Kubota B2320. I am in the process of adding ballast to the rear tires and would like suggestions.
I live in NW Alabama and the tractor is stored in my basement. I do not need freeze protection so I am considering pure water in the tires.
Now here is my question----with pure water in tubless tires, I realise there will be corrosion of the painted rims.
Is there a product that can be added to water to slow down the corrosion?
I have googled this and all I find is "waterwetter" but, for the cost, I could use many other liquids even anti-freeze mixture or washer fluid.
Any suggestions :?:

The antifreeze would be good

Add 2 gal. of anti freeze to each tire. As long as the rim is completely covered(no air) it will be fine.

pure water shouldnt rust rim if you fill tire so water stays above rim itself...rust needs oxygen to work.

(quoted from post at 00:24:21 06/28/11) Add 2 gal. of anti freeze to each tire. As long as the rim is completely covered(no air) it will be fine.

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That's what I was thinking---The correct amount of water for each tire is 22 gal. Although I knew the freeze point would not be lowered by adding 2 gal. of antifreeze, and that freezing is not a concern, I figured there would be some corrosion protection with this weak mixture.
Having the water covering the top of rim makes sense.
In my particular situation, I just can't justify $200-$300 cost for installing tubes or having the tires loaded.
Also--I have more then enough water saved from my de-humidifiers to fill both tires. I save the water for house plants and for adding to cooling system of vehicles. I just figured this water would be purer then tap water.

Oxygen is part of the make up of water. It will rust even if the water is over the rim.
If rust is that big an issue, then you better start adding iron to the wheels.

I have heard that filling the tire all the way to the top with fluid makes the tractor ride hard. Bill

Here is what I was told by a tire store, and I bought it, not so sure it was the right thing to do. Bought a new 5303 jd, tubless rear tires, tire shop sold me on filling them to just over the rims with cal cloride, said without air no rust. and no tubes needed, $295. total, I like the extra weight, but that was 3 years ago, and the other day when I pulled the tractor out to put the mower on it, I noticed 5 wet spots between the lugs on the right side tire. kinda damp that morning, didn't think about anymore till the next day when I was going through the tool box looking for a certain wrench. wet spots still there, and a few drops had run down, not water, its cal cloride, and its seeping through the tire caseing. so I know before long I'm gonna have to have tubes put in.

Cat guy, this got me to thinking, which is dangerous! You are right about oxygen in water, otherwise fish wouldn't live in it. But would oxydation eventually use up the oxygen and then stop? It's just a wild thought I had. Would water straight from a well have less oxygen? By the way, my vote is for iron weights. The tractor will ride smoother and there will be no hassles with fluids. Had fluid once, it was good cheap weight that gave good traction, but it just seemed to turn tire trouble into tire TROUBLE. Jim

I was told recently that it is common now to add CaCl to tubeless tires. I had to break down a tire recently that had been loaded tubeless for about ten years. I could see that some deterioration to the rim had taken place, but not significantly. Then it all came to me. CaCl will accelerate rusting of rims. Rusting is Oxidation. O2 used up----no more oxidation. Leak in tire--- tube or no tube---reinflate---introduce more oxygen---more rust. So what it comes down to, is what I have always said, is CaCl doesn't rust rims. procrastination does. You will be OK as long as it doesn't leak. If you need to add air you better find out why because your rim is rusting.

this thing i beat to deat on here but here is my take,Been a Kubota dealer for over 30 years and what we use (MId Tennessee) Mixture of 1/3 Methanol and 2/3 water. We only fill to some where around 10 o clock or about the top of the rim. The other post is correct you cannot fill full or you have no room for the tire to flex. Over the years we haven,t had rustiong to be a problem. Hope this helps >> Jerry

I agree with 504, use a light antifreeze mix. It should slow down
corrosion.

I would NOT use CACl unless you are in a severe climate and need
it. I live in Iowa and plan to use beet juice.

Rimguard, would be my ONLY choice when putting ballast into a
rim. On a tractor that is almost new, Why not spring for the extra
cost.If and when you decide to sell it 1 it wont have any rim rot, and
2 the next owner would be more apt to buy a tractor with rimguard
then water.
The BEST solution

dealers around here are adding windshield washer fluid to tires.

I guess adding anti-freeze to water is nearly the same thing.

I don't know the origins of this story or why people believe it.
Please explain how keeping the steel rim surface INSIDE the tire covered with salt water prevents corrosion?
A tire/wheel is supposed to be air tight or they would have to be re-filled everyday.
The inside of the rin would rust until the oxygen is used out of the air and liquid inside the tire. Then in the absence of any new oxygen, how does corrosion continue?
b.t.w. how can people afford a tractor but can't afford a set of tire tubes when using liquid ballast?

This is topic with varying opinions.

Safe to say in an "ideal" world. #1 Liquid ballast would not be used and enough cast iron weights would have room to be mounted and the owner could or would pay for them.
#2 Salt water, in particular calcium chloride is a very chemically aggressive solution that attacks ferrous metals in particular.
#3 Somebody here always trots out the story that he, his pappy, his Grand Pappy and his Great Grand Pappy. All have each used calcium Chloride for 40+ years each in dozens of tractors. And nary a problem with leakage or corrosion.
Yet anybody looking at used equipment or touring a salvage yard find more rims rusted through than not.
#4 The best way to avoid or prevent an incident with a "potentially damaging situation". Is to eliminate the "potentially damaging situation". Or substitute the
"potentially damaging situation" with a less or non ""potentially damaging situation" . Common sense actually.
For all the difference in ballast weight between water/antifreeze, diluted windshield fluid or sugar water/beet juice. It's not detectable. Having the fuel tank near full or empty or changing operators from a light weight to a heavy weight will make as much or more difference in stability and pulling power.
#5 Stories about wear and tear on the drive train with different ballast types is just a coffee shop BS conversation topic.
#6 It's amazing how people can pay five and six figures on a project. Yet they scrimp on a few dollars and "sink" the entire affair.