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Gripping a chromed shaft to unthread

K

Ken Macfarlane

Well-known Member
The double ended ram on my MF's steering is internally threaded, I'm trying to remove a tie rod end from it while on the tractor.

I've used lead sheet with pipe wrench, vice grips, chain wrench etc but the lead slips. There are a tiny set of 1" flats but the only wrench I have slim enough to go on it just spreads the jaws when you try to turn the tre.

I've never heated anything chromed before that I cared about, hot hot can I get the steering cyl? Its out all the way on the side I'm working so I can cool the seals.
 
You might try a good strap wrench or if you can find them Vise-grips makes a few narrow type vige grips that might also work. I have a set of vise grips that is very narrow and they have saved me more then once. As for power steering cylinders yes there are a good number of them that can still be had. nnalert lists them in there catalog
 
Might try starting the tractor and turning all the way in the direction that exposes the most shaft, get the cylinder in a bind and then use your wrench with the lead or wrap 1/2 rope around the shaft to the left several tight wraps.
 
My strap wrench is too stretchy but I'll add that to the pile. I've got 6 sets of 8" vice grips on the lead wrap now such that they hit the axle when I unthread. Still slipping.
 
(quoted from post at 08:32:12 06/21/11) The double ended ram on my MF's steering is internally threaded, I'm trying to remove a tie rod end from it while on the tractor.

I've used lead sheet with pipe wrench, vice grips, chain wrench etc but the lead slips. There are a tiny set of 1" flats but the only wrench I have slim enough to go on it just spreads the jaws when you try to turn the tre.

I've never heated anything chromed before that I cared about, hot hot can I get the steering cyl? Its out all the way on the side I'm working so I can cool the seals.
Click to expand...

You might try heating the tie rod end instead of the chrome shaft. Usually the results are the same. Wrap some water soaked rags around the shaft if you think it is necessary.
 
Sounds like you have one of those rubber strap strap wrench instead of the belt type which are far better. Oh by the way just to motivate you more a new cylinder is only $334 LOL nice and cheap. Oh another idea for you. You said there is an area that has a flat spot for a wrench if you have an old pretty much junk set of vise grips grind the jaws down to just fit and give that a try.
 
Put something like a couple pieces of keystock in the wrench flats, then clamp over the keystock with the vise off of your drillpress ?
 
Just got it with one more set of vice grip chain wrench, the strap wrench and a 36"
pipe wrench on the opposite tre to keep it from turning.
 
drill a hole the same size as shaft through a 2x4 or larger block hardwood block.then split it ,place it around shaft and clamp it in a large vise.a piece of thin leather might help it hold. .
 
What about a chain wrench with something like a thin piece of rubber to keep the rod from being scratched?
 
the hole through the block of wood is on the right track, just buy some resin to put on the shaft to stop slippage,..talk to your local gunsmith he'll tell you about resin
 
They are a proper pr**k. Mabey I'll sound like a knuckle dragger... but what I have done and would do again... run the rod all the way out. Wrap a rag around the chrome in one layer and snug a pipe wrench on it. Put your other wrench on the flats... have at it. If it still won't loosen... and assuming that you're tossing the ball/socket... I would try to rig something up to keep the heat away from the chrome on the rod then heat the head of the tie rod end where it attaches to the rod. The heat on the head will expand the tie rod just enough to break it free of the rod end... then it should thread out.
When you're done file any burrs off the chrome rod, then emery cloth... then take it down fine with fine sand paper. Those things are more resilient than you realize.

Rod
 
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