2-135 hard clutch fix

2-135 hard clutch I know many who have a 2-135,2-155, and maybe even a 2-180 have a hard clutch pedal that wears your leg and knee out during the day if you use it alot. Several years ago I made the length of the fork just a little bit longer as you see in one picture, but was never happy with it, and I saw a post on yesterday s tractors and started doing some research and found everything on the later serial number tractors(so like the series 2) was the same except for the bellcrank. I thought I would order one if available to see what the difference was and if it would help. Well you can see putting them side by side what s different, and boy does it make a difference for pushing the pedal. Even leaving the bracket I put on the fork lever, it still disengages just fine to shift through all the gears, and is almost easier than the clutch on my 1850, easier than many pickups I ve driven. Now it s obsolete from agco, my dealer said no other dealers had it on hand, but they were able to get it from an obsolete parts warehouse. I made a tracing of it, and the overall length for scale if someone wants to make a copy of it for their tractor. I went from hating to push the clutch, to now if my 6 year olds legs were long enough, I think he could do it without a problem. It only took about 15 minutes to change, and that s only because my hands had a hard time getting in there to put the pins back in. Oh, I think it would be even easier if it had a pedal return spring that wasn t so tight.
 
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I wonder who the engineer was who figured out that little difference in the placement of that hole would make that
much difference? Somebody way smarter than me for sure.
 
(quoted from post at 22:50:07 01/25/23) I wonder who the engineer was who figured out that little difference in the placement of that hole would make that
much difference? Somebody way smarter than me for sure.

I wonder if they were worried about not having as much pull on it so it wouldn't disengage enough, because as you probably know, in order to have it easier, you have to move it farther for the same distance, just simple levers. They probably had too many complaints though and had to do something, but you would think that the new one would have subbed to the older tractors yet though...
 
I can see the difference but can someone show me where the bell crank goes? At a little bit of a loss and will admit I don't have one of those tractors. Well I do but it's a parts tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 00:33:50 01/26/23) I can see the difference but can someone show me where the bell crank goes? At a little bit of a loss and will admit I don't have one of those tractors. Well I do but it's a parts tractor.

I'm not walking out to the shop tonight at 10:30, but if you follow the rod coming from the clutch lever on the bell housing back, it's where it attaches right under the cab. The rod coming down from the clutch pedal attaches to it too.
 
Thanks, Now that I think of it, I have seen that on a number of the Olivers I have taken apart. Just didn't really pay much attention to it. Seems like an odd name and even more interesting is how the little
change can make such a difference.
 
I never thought of measuring before, but I walked out and pulled it with grandpa s old spring scale, and pulling from the side it takes about 40 pounds, but I would guess straight pushing from the seat it would be a little less, maybe 35. My Minneapolis Moline jet star 3 is about 32(much smaller tractor) and my 1850 is 38-40, so about the same as the 2-135. I just thought I would add this so it was some other information. Maybe someone with an early 2-135,2-155 can check to see what theirs are to compare? I m not going to put the old one back in as of right now.
 

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