2N Stalls during snow plowing - Carb???

When I start up my 2N it idles and runs fine if I slowly increase the throttle. If I increase it too quickly, it stalls out. If I quickly open and close the choke, it recovers most of the time. When I let it warm up and start plowing, it won't stall if the snow resistance at the plow only varies a bit, but even when warm, if I plow too deep, or if there is greater resistance due to heavier snow, it will stall out, but I can recover the stall again by quickly using the choke. I THINK, when the Gov comes on due to the higher resistance, that the engine all of a sudden is not getting enough gas. I checked the filters at the sediment bowl and at the Carb, and both are clean as a whistle. Before I dismantle the Carb that I rebuilt with all new parts 2 years ago, can anyone suggest what Carb needle adjustment I should try? As the engine runs fine when not under heavy load, I am loath to start playing with my adjustments which could affect how well the 2N starts and runs without a load. Thanks, Larry. P.S. I used to love show, what happened to me?
 
Open the main jet adjustment a 1/2 turn at a time. It is the one that point down at an angle. Sounds like it is running a bit on the lean side
 
Start with a cold engine and perform the Fuel Flow Test first. Get a 1-Pint Mason Jar and place in a coffee can, then position can under the carb. Loosen the 7/16 hex flare nut on the fuel line at the carb brass inlet elbow and gently slide the fuel line off to the side so it points down into the can. Open the Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve 2 Full Turns. Observe the fuel flow is a steady stream and it fills the can with 1 pint in 2 minutes. Any sputtering, hesitation, or failure to fill gas in the Mason Jar indicates the problem is upstream on the Sediment Bulb or in the gas tank itself. The brass fuel line elbow has a 3rd built-in screen too and often gets negleted when troubleshooting. If Fuel Test passes, connect the fuel line and repeat using the carb drain plug in bottom of carb. This is a NPT plug, tapered pipe thread; it's not a standard thread size, so do not try to use anything other than that to chase threads or replace. Often you see the hex head on the plug all rounded off from guys using pliers, vise gripes, channel locks, or simply the wrong size wrench to remove. Get the right tool. If Fuel Test passes, reset the drain plug, leave it alone, and move on -it's probably electrical. The carb may need ebuiding, use the OEM unit, do not buy a new part. Your ESSENTIAL MANUALS have chapters on the fuel and carb settings. I advise to only make short 1/8-1/4 turns in idle mix adjustment screws. You MUST WAIT when adjusting screws til engine speed catches up. I rebuild OEM Marvel-Schebler carbs, contavt me if interested.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR- MARVEL SCHEBLER CARBURETOR & SETTINGS:
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N FUEL FILTERS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
Every tractor has it's own personality when it comes to starting and responding to increased engine load. I use my 8N52 quite a bit from April to November and I am pretty familiar with what it's normal is. When it starts or acts differently I of course check all the things that others mention here but I also have gotten into the habit of removing the carburetor, splitting it and cleaning the inside thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed air. It is a pretty easy quick job and the engine always seems to return to it's normal!
 
Something to try. Cut a short piece fuel line slice one side so it will fit over the choke rod. Adjust so the choke is open +- half way. See if it helps. I ran an 8n for 15 years like that in the winter with no issues. It ran perfect in the summer without it and I didn't feel like taking the carb apart to correct. Good luck.
 
Thats not a fix that is a get you by for a LAZY PERSON WHO doesn't want to fix the real problem
 
Problem Fixed!!! The issue was super simple to fix. I adjusted the main jet one half turn out, and the stalling under fast throttle increase, and under load, is entirely fixed, without any impact on starting or idle performance, so THANKS to all who made that suggestion. What happened is last year when I did my carb adjustment just as described in the FO-4 Manual, i.e. turned until power loss, then open a bit to get smooth idle, had worked just fine in the warm weather, but now it is below freezing (and plowing is more of a load than just pulling trailers of firewood), I needed to richen the mixture, i.e. I was running it a bit too lean, and it only took a half turn outwards. So, Thanks to All, and if you guys don't mind, could you now please make it stop snowing. Larry.
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