1946 BN IHC
Member
Thank you fellows for all your assistance in solving why belts kept coming off mower.
>> not only were the hinge points worn egg which I created and had welded bushings on the outside of the 1/2 inch rails and installed 1/2 bolts with lock nuts. Bushed the other egg shaped holes for the adjusters at the back of the mower on the depth wheels. Bushed and bored out to 1/2 from 3/8 the hinge blots that held the rails to the attachment frame at the front and installed bushings in the rails. Further to this I readjusted the adjust blots at the back to near max setting [ they were turned all the way in].
>> ran the mower cut the neighbours lawn which is longer than ours >> the belt stayed on <<<
//// BUT I did see that the pully on the deck is still 2 inches and some below the mule drive pullies [ bottom edge] when the deck is in lowered cutting position; allowing the belt to still be bent down from the mule drive pullies.
>>>TO MY Way of thinking the belt should come straight off >or nearly straight off the mule drive to the mower driven pully when the deck is in cutting position.
///I also found that the bearings for the center drive which accepts the belt from the engine are questionable.
>>SO to make corrections here // After we cut the lawn next week I will take the center pully drive stack apart and send to our machinist to have a new /// longer shaft made and install new bearings in the housing and the driven pully raised by 2 inches plus. Will have the shaft made 2 and 3/4 to 3 inches longer so I can install a fine tread nut and a cotter pin and a square key installed rather than a 1/2 moon key allowing the driven pully to be vertically located better. Will also have the machinist make several shim washers of differing thicknesses to give vertical adjustment to the driven pully.
Thank you again for all your assistance in solving this matter.
Wm. from Thamesford Ontario Canada [ near London]
>> not only were the hinge points worn egg which I created and had welded bushings on the outside of the 1/2 inch rails and installed 1/2 bolts with lock nuts. Bushed the other egg shaped holes for the adjusters at the back of the mower on the depth wheels. Bushed and bored out to 1/2 from 3/8 the hinge blots that held the rails to the attachment frame at the front and installed bushings in the rails. Further to this I readjusted the adjust blots at the back to near max setting [ they were turned all the way in].
>> ran the mower cut the neighbours lawn which is longer than ours >> the belt stayed on <<<
//// BUT I did see that the pully on the deck is still 2 inches and some below the mule drive pullies [ bottom edge] when the deck is in lowered cutting position; allowing the belt to still be bent down from the mule drive pullies.
>>>TO MY Way of thinking the belt should come straight off >or nearly straight off the mule drive to the mower driven pully when the deck is in cutting position.
///I also found that the bearings for the center drive which accepts the belt from the engine are questionable.
>>SO to make corrections here // After we cut the lawn next week I will take the center pully drive stack apart and send to our machinist to have a new /// longer shaft made and install new bearings in the housing and the driven pully raised by 2 inches plus. Will have the shaft made 2 and 3/4 to 3 inches longer so I can install a fine tread nut and a cotter pin and a square key installed rather than a 1/2 moon key allowing the driven pully to be vertically located better. Will also have the machinist make several shim washers of differing thicknesses to give vertical adjustment to the driven pully.
Thank you again for all your assistance in solving this matter.
Wm. from Thamesford Ontario Canada [ near London]
