Kohler To Briggs wiring issue

I've swapped a Briggs into my Cub Cadet XT1 which had blown the original Kohler Courage 18hp engine. The Briggs is out of a Craftsman riding mower, it's a 15.5HP Turbo Cool model 28U707. It starts and runs but the fuse at the + battery post is blowing, so will not start again untill the fuse is replaced. So apparently I've got something wrong. The original wiring on the Kohler had the violet wire running to a rectifier-regulator which then had the two wires from the stator connected to it. The only other wires on the engine side that were connected were the fuel solonoid on the carb and the ignition module. The Craftsman with the Briggs had 4 wires on the engine side, the same fuel and ignition connections, but the wires from the stator went back into the harness back to the ignition switch. This is where I believe my error is. According to the Briggs schematic, there is an orange and red wire coming from the alternator/stator, the red with a diode inline that reads charging system output 3 amp DC. Supposedly an orange wire that is labeled, lighting system output 5 amp AC @ 3600 rpm/ 14 volts AC min @ 3600 rpm (lights off), but I have a red and BLACK wire coming from the stator. When the Briggs is plugged into the Craftsman harness the red wire from the stator is connected to an orange wire going back to the ignition. So my guess was to connect my violet wire to the red wire with the diode inline. I'm now assuming that was wrong. I did not visually verify if there was a diode and which wire it was on, only went by schematic. Tried to remove flywheel but wasn't having any luck. Will attach schematics, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Could possible be the Kohler key switch is not compatible with the Briggs engines electrical system.

Try using the switch that went with the Briggs engine.

It seems that Briggs never kept track of what charging system was supplied on what type engine numbers. Even the parts book makes the tech. figure out which one he needs. Also, if you try to install a higher output charging sytem, lots of the low amp charging sytems had smaller magnets in the flywheel and won't charge properly even if you install the larger stator. (At least I couldn't get it to work.)

If your Cub Cadet has an electric clutch, it probably will continue to blow that fuse. If your stator output is just 3 amps, the clutch takes that and maybe more and there is no extra for the fuel solenoid or to charge the battery. I am thinking it should just sit there and run and run with the clutch off and not blow fuses.

If you don't have an electric clutch, then the problem is elsewhere, of course. I am assuming your battery is good.

As far as I know the red wire from the stator is the output wire for the 3 amp charging system.

It seems that Briggs never kept track of what charging system was supplied on what type engine numbers. Even the parts book makes the tech. figure out which one he needs. Also, if you try to install a higher output charging sytem, lots of the low amp charging sytems had smaller magnets in the flywheel and won't charge properly even if you install the larger stator. (At least I couldn't get it to work.)

If your Cub Cadet has an electric clutch, it probably will continue to blow that fuse. If your stator output is just 3 amps, the clutch takes that and maybe more and there is no extra for the fuel solenoid or to charge the battery. I am thinking it should just sit there and run and run with the clutch off and not blow fuses.

If you don't have an electric clutch, then the problem is elsewhere, of course. I am assuming your battery is good.

As far as I know the red wire from the stator is the output wire for the 3 amp charging system. If the other wire is putting out AC, just disconnect it from the harness. You need to check it with a meter to be sure. (But don't let it short to anything, of course. You don't want AC current running all over the mower.)

New battery, fully charged. By electric clutch I assume you mean PTO? If so , both mowers are manual PTO. Thanks for the reply.

Did not think of that, just might give it a try. Come to think of it, I noticed that while I had it running, if I got off the tractor it would kill the engine. This never happened with the mower before unless you tried to get off while the deck was engaged. Thanks

Well, I was going to check the voltage coming from the stator while running, so I put in a new fuse and before I got it started I noticed smoke coming from under the flywheel. Pulled the fuse and tore it down to get a look at the alternator/stator. And found my error. When I connected the violet wire from the Kohler to the red from the Briggs I had to cut the red wire from the harness connector of the Briggs because the pin wouldn't work in the Kohler connector so I hard wired the violet to the red. Unknown to me, the diode was right at the connector and I cut just above it and leaving it out of my connection!! I had assumed the diode was inline up under the flywheel where I couldn't see it. So I have a stator coming tomorrow, this one had started to melt and I have zero confidence in being able to solder the diode back to the red wire. I assume the burning and or melting was from the 12 volt from the battery back feeding to the stator, does the inline diode prevent this as well? Thanks