John Deere 314 relieve valve stuck.

Mtjohnso

Member
Working on neighbors John Deere 314 Garden tractor.
He had tighten down the knob right in front of the seat so that he could move the tractor due to not starting.
After I moved the tractor to my shop I got the carburetor cleaned and the engine started.
I then moved forward/reverse lever to reverse and carefully backed the tractor out of the shop. The knob is still screwed down. I then move lever into forward position and the tractor did not move forward. So kept moving lever until tractor did a wheelie all of a sudden. The tractor would still move backwards under power but not forward.
I used an excavator to move the 314 back into the shop by picking up the back end.
Did some reading online and then realized about the knob. Unscrewed the knob and tried to move tractor. Tractor would not free wheel with knob in. Not move with knob out under power.
Took back pan, fuel tank and metal cover over pump off. Found two things.
There are 2 1 inch nuts with a pin in the center under metal tab that gets depressed when knob is screwed in. Noticed that one pin was higher than the other. Sprayed liquid wrench on both pins. Should the pins pop up on their own when knob is unscrewed? Should the pins move freely up and down with engine off?
The sight glass was completely missing and hoses to the sight glass hard and brittle. Does JD still sell the sight glass for the rear differential?
Did I do damage to the pump or transmission by trying to move tractor forward while the knob was screwed in ?
 
Those 2 pins should come back up on their own. But being that is not something that gets regular use and in the dirty conditions they will stick, but a little work and you can free them up. Not sure if the sight glass is available but you can also use clear plastic tubing for a sight tube
 
those pins are supposed to pop back out on their own. But that tractor is probably 30 years old and they may have not moved in a long time.

If this is the type hydro I think it is, I think if you remove the 'nuts', you will be able to use a small punch from the bottom and push those pins back up so they seal off the bypass holes.
 

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