1974 Ford 3400- Hydraulic Filter Replacement

Going to be doing a "drain & change" on the 3400's hydraulic system next weekend. How many filters are there? i see part number C5NNN832B in my parts book. Should I order a new washer (81800801) and 2 seals (E82GF9) or are they reused? Also, I see a listing for a filter & pipe assembly (C5NNN994M). At $167 tell me it's just a screen that I can clean somehow and not have to replace it.

Second part of my project, how do I get at the filters? Can't really tell by the parts blowup, I assume they are under the seat somewhere. Anything I should watch out for when getting at them?

Thanks.

(quoted from post at 00:10:12 01/02/12) Going to be doing a "drain & change" on the 3400's hydraulic system next weekend. How many filters are there? i see part number C5NNN832B in my parts book. Should I order a new washer (81800801) and 2 seals (E82GF9) or are they reused? Also, I see a listing for a filter & pipe assembly (C5NNN994M). At $167 tell me it's just a screen that I can clean somehow and not have to replace it.

Second part of my project, how do I get at the filters? Can't really tell by the parts blowup, I assume they are under the seat somewhere. Anything I should watch out for when getting at them?

Thanks.

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The suction filter isn't meant to be replaced.. just cleaned. It's a metal screen, the one you show as $167. I was able to remove mine after removing the PTO shaft (easy) but even then it's a tight fit. Mine was really gunked up, but a little soaking in diesel/ATF mix and a little compressed air cleaned it right up. It it's not too bad you may be able to clean it up in place.

The replaceable paper filter on the return is easier for sure. I did replace the seals first time but it didn't seem necessary. Either way they aren't much money, but if you're pinching pennies the filter is likely all you need.

Hope this helps -- once you get the lift cover off you'll see what you've got. The pipe for the metal screen suction filter will bend "just a little" and that seemed to be the key to getting it out and back in.

Greg

Just spent some time perusing through the service manual and operators manual. Got a good laugh (cause sometimes that's all you can do).

Operators manual says (basically) suction filter needs cleaned and paper element filter needs replaced. Send to the dealer to have it done.

Service manual says, tractor is equipped with a screen that needs cleaned and a filter that needs replaced. They are located at the bottom of the housing.

That's it! lol Guess this will be a "learn as you go" experience!

Thanks for the help GW. That'll be a good guide to get started.

(quoted from post at 04:27:07 01/02/12) Just spent some time perusing through the service manual and operators manual. Got a good laugh (cause sometimes that's all you can do).

Operators manual says (basically) suction filter needs cleaned and paper element filter needs replaced. Send to the dealer to have it done.

Service manual says, tractor is equipped with a screen that needs cleaned and a filter that needs replaced. They are located at the bottom of the housing.

That's it! lol Guess this will be a "learn as you go" experience!

Thanks for the help GW. That'll be a good guide to get started.

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I should have mentioned.. on my 4000su with the independent PTO (where there's also a gear-type pump in the center housing) you actually have to split the tractor to replace that replaceable filter :roll:

To remove the metal screen inlet filter on my 3000, I had to undo one bolt, gently wiggle the non-filter end out of its socket, and then free up the filter end. There's a metal tab on the back end of the filter that can hang up in the housing and make it not want to come out. With the PTO shaft removed you can look in from the rear and free it up if necessary.

I had to gently bend the tab (where the bolt was removed) to get the whole apparatus out and back in, but it's do-able.

Lug, before you open your hyd system, what is the symptom you are having w/the hyd system?

A filter change is well and good, but sometimes isn't necessary. be prepared before you remove the lift cover....

and yes, they are somewhere beneath the seat, :lol:

sl

Actually, I don't have any problems. Just doing a fluid change since it's a new to me tractor and don't know how long the fluid's been in there. I've got all week to contemplate the reprecussions of not changing vs changing but I ordered it anyway so it'll be here next weekend if I get brave (and access to a garage).

Have fun, there is plenty in the forums (archives) about your tractor's features.
You might want to read up on the lift cover and it's related components before opening it up.

Did you get the bands adjusted on the SOS, or are you waiting for the garage?...sl

(quoted from post at 16:34:15 01/02/12)
Have fun, there is plenty in the forums (archives) about your tractor's features.
You might want to read up on the lift cover and it's related components before opening it up.

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I'll second that. If the lift is working properly, but you're unsure of the history of the fluid, you could start by simply draining it into a clean container. If the fluid was really nasty, you could remove the inspection plate on the left hand side of the tractor and that (plus a light and maybe a mirror) would allow you to get a glimpse of the filters.

A shop crane is really handy for removing the lift cover. It weighs a fair amount, and it's very difficult to manage (though it can be done). I don't think I'd remove the lift cover unless something was amiss though.

If you do remove the lift cover, then you might as well replace the various o-rings while you're in there. But that probably goes beyond normal "preventative maintenance".

Hope this helps -
Greg

(quoted from post at 11:34:15 01/02/12)
Did you get the bands adjusted on the SOS, or are you waiting for the garage?...sl

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Not yet. Ran out of time last weekend and I'm out of town all week again. Hoping for this weekend. I've got all the fluid sitting their and filters ready to go. The more I keep reading about opening up the hydraulics, I think I'll just go with a drain and refill. I have the filter and such sitting here if I ever do need to open it up (if something breaks) but I think I'll leave well enough alone with that part for now. I figure a good couple hours working around the farm will get the fluid good, warmed up and stirred up to get the most crud out.

Thanks for the help guys.

There are (2) seals, on on each side of center, on the differential for the brake rods. Are yours leaking? If so, it's not required, but its a good time to replace them...when you have the fluid out.
be safe on the road.
sl