1966 Ford 3000 with SOS shifter questions and part request

The fitting on my SOS shifter where the shift cable connects has disintegrated. Would anyone know where I could get a replacement or maybe the whole shifter at a reasonable price? This all started when the SOS shift handle lost all tension. It seems the upper and lower cable became disconnected from each other. I took the transmission cover off and it has been a bonefied b%*#H to get the cables reconnected (PTO and SOS) I mean, good Lord, could they have made it any harder to get those hard cables connected to their respected locations?

Also, if anyone could tell me or show me what "Park" looks like in regards to the control valve assembly I would be extremely grateful. I have read that the control valve automatically goes to park when the engine is off which means all 6 valve spools are in the "Out" Position. Can you manually turn the shaft with a screwdriver all the way to one end or the other and be get the valve in the "Park" or "Out position? When all the valve arms were evenly lined up and the "buttons" (for lack of a better word) are all "out", I don"t think it is in Park because the shaft can still be moved into other detents. It would seem that "Park" would be all the way to one direction.
Thanks again for any help.

I think I may have purchased a doozy of a first tractor. The more I read the more I wish I had gotten a manual transmission.

Welcome to the forum.

Now for the bad news: if you took the transmission cover off without any prior knowledge of proper procedure, you shot yourself in the foot.

Replacing the cables in the top of the transmission is no big deal if you follow procedure. If you did not, everything is likely now out of adjustment.

The position of the trunion shaft on the control valve really has nothing to do with whether or not the transmission is in park when the engine is not running. There is none of the residual hydraulic pressure left in the transmission that is required to release bands two and three. One or both of these must release hydraulically for any other ratio than park.

Now then, the trunion shaft must be in park to enable proper adjustment of the transmission shift cable. The trunion shaft will rotate beyond park but not very far. The best way to tell if it's in park is to view the safety start switch, [b:f898e6b0a4][color=red:f898e6b0a4]which it better have and it better be connected and working properly for your own safety as well as that of anyone else who may operate it[/color:f898e6b0a4][/b:f898e6b0a4]. There is a pointed cam on the trunion which will contact and depress the ball in that switch when in park. It does this at no other position of the shaft.

As to parts for the shifter, I may or may not have some at the farm. I'd have to look and know exactly what you're looking for. I will not be there until Monday.

(quoted from post at 03:18:53 04/22/11) The fitting on my SOS shifter where the shift cable connects has disintegrated. Would anyone know where I could get a replacement or maybe the whole shifter at a reasonable price? This all started when the SOS shift handle lost all tension. It seems the upper and lower cable became disconnected from each other. I took the transmission cover off and it has been a bonefied b%*#H to get the cables reconnected (PTO and SOS) I mean, good Lord, could they have made it any harder to get those hard cables connected to their respected locations?

Also, if anyone could tell me or show me what "Park" looks like in regards to the control valve assembly I would be extremely grateful. I have read that the control valve automatically goes to park when the engine is off which means all 6 valve spools are in the "Out" Position. Can you manually turn the shaft with a screwdriver all the way to one end or the other and be get the valve in the "Park" or "Out position? When all the valve arms were evenly lined up and the "buttons" (for lack of a better word) are all "out", I don"t think it is in Park because the shaft can still be moved into other detents. It would seem that "Park" would be all the way to one direction.
Thanks again for any help.

I think I may have purchased a doozy of a first tractor. The more I read the more I wish I had gotten a manual transmission.

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Luke,

My SOS is a little older (1960), but the cable connection to the aluminum "gear selector" should be a pinch connection where the cable is clamped to the gear selector. What has disintegrated there?

As far as the cables coming apart, did the connection tip break on one of the cables, or did they just come apart? I assume you have an owner's manual. If you use the short cable from the gear selector in the PTO slot while putting the top cover back on it's not too horrible, just takes a little patience.

Larry NCKS and others will be along shortly and may have a replacement shift selector/cables, but they typically run $100 + and aren't easy to find. From your description, I am not sure if a replacement is necessary or if you can service and continue to use the one you have.

Yes, the valve body cam can be turned manually through the respective "gears". However, when folks refer to the transmission going to "park" with the engine off, it is due to the lack of hydraulic pressure, NOT the control valve cam location. If the tractor is shifted to 5th when turned off, the control valve will be in the appropriate location for 5th, but without hydraulic pressure, the springs applying pressure to the bands will keep the tranny in "park".

If you are confident that all valve spools are "out" in park (I don't recall), you should be able to move the valve body cam to that position and start from there. As I recall, the owner's manual has you remove the top plate with the tractor in "park", but you have to shift to 10th gear ([u:65d9ddcf0b]selector only[/u:65d9ddcf0b], not the valve body, after separating the conduit from the top plate) before separating the shift cables as it is necessary to get the "cable connection" out of the conduit. Once the two cable are clasped together correctly when installing, they are pulled back into the conduit which should keep them together.

Lastly, I would say it is a little early to "jump ship" on the SOS, they can be fantastic trannies and fun to operate. If these old tractors were still seeing heavy use plowing, etc. maybe the SOS tranny wouldn't be ideal, as repair parts can be scarce and not many mechanics want to tackle them. But, for the small use (100-200 hrs/yr) many of us put on these tractors, and most if it light duty, they will last as long as we do.

If I didnt' like the looks of the older "red and gray" tractors so well, I would be looking for a 3000 or 4000 with the DDC Select-o-speed tranny for myself. Best of luck and ask questions, as the answers are here (mostly from other folks who know a heck of a lot more than me ).

Chris

PS - [color=red:65d9ddcf0b]Good morning Larry, it sure looks funny when I reference you in my reply while you are aleady replying, but I guess that is what happens when I get too windy. Have a great day and BLESSED EASTER!![/color:65d9ddcf0b]

You have received good advice below.

Late model S-O-S transmissions like that in your 3000 are nearly bullet proof if properly maintained.

Removing the transmission top cover without reading and understand the proper procedure in a proper service manual is very unwise and can result in damage that is expensive to repair. If you do not have a proper service manual, get one before concinuing.

Installation/adjustment of the selector and PTO cables is straight forward once you understand the procedures.

Many, but not all, S-O-S parts, including some selector and cable parts, are still available from CNH but some are very expensive.

Dean

The trunnion shaft with the cams for the different spool valves is a 6 sided hex and a 5/8" wrench will fit on it and turn it. I'm pretty sure it's a 5/8" wrench that fits it but you get the idea- turn it with an open end wrench.

Below you will find photos of my dilemma. The 3rd pic is of the selector. You will notice the broken fitting in the photo. The other photos of the valve assembly show what I believe is the “PARK” or “OUT” Position. You will notice in one of the photos with the safety switch that one of the cams appears to be depressing the button that someone stated was evidence of the valve being in the park position. If this is indeed “PARK” will adjustment be difficult. The manual states that with the cover on the lower selector cable should protrude 2-3/4 inches in order to facilitate the synchronization of the selector to the control valve assembly in the “PARK” position. It then instructs me to shift the selector to 10th speed. Therein lies a problem. From the pictures you will see that the selector is disassembled and damaged. The other thing that is aggravating is that the clearances with the conduit are so tight that working with the cables is difficult. That was one of the causes of the damage to the selector. If I put my head to it I might come up with a way to repair the shifter instead of dishing out bookoo bucks for another one........That is if I can even find another one. Anyhow any suggestions as to how to proceed would be appreciated.
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I see part of your problem, or at least I believe I do. That shifter needed to be freed from the dash before attempting to take it loose at the transmission cover. Likewise with the PTO control.

We've said it before, and while I really hate to continue to harp on it, this is clearly a case of tackling a job without the knowledge of how it should be done.

Shifting the shifter to 10th is not a problem at all, if it's disconnected from the dash. The whole shifter body and conduit will then move up the cable, the splice will be exposed and easily connectable or disconnectable as the case may be. The transmission shaft must remain in the Park position to get the proper dimension on the cable stub.

None of these procedures are difficult if approached properly.

I will look for the housing part when I get back to the farm Monday.

My email is open on the modern view of this forum.

God bless!

(quoted from post at 07:34:26 04/22/11) PS - [color=red:99d797d285]Good morning Larry, it sure looks funny when I reference you in my reply while you are aleady replying, but I guess that is what happens when I get too windy. Have a great day and BLESSED EASTER!![/color:99d797d285]

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Hi Chris,

I sent you a facebook message, but think this needs to be said publicly as well. Thanks for the greetings.

What a great thing we celebrate tomorrow! He died for a wretch like me! And indeed for all who believe or will believe. Wow! How amazing! How gracious!

Blessed Easter to you and to all!
Larry

I look forward to your trip to the farm on Monday. Does the valve assembly look like it is in the PARK and OUT position? Happy Easter everyone!

The pictures do not define the valve position for me. However, if the point on the safety starter switch cam has the ball depressed in the switch, it's in Park.

I'm not sure what you mean by "OUT" position.

Blessed Easter!

Luke 61, I do have the shifter housing you need. Sorry I forgot to look sooner. If you're interested drop me an email and we'll talk specifics. My email is available on the modern view of this forum.

(quoted from post at 10:06:14 04/27/11)
Luke 61, I do have the shifter housing you need. Sorry I forgot to look sooner. If you're interested drop me an email and we'll talk specifics. My email is available on the modern view of this forum.

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Thanks Larry. I found one and have it installed. It is actually better than the one I had on it. Shifts like a champ and everything is lined up. Turns out the guy I bought it from had it adjusted incorrectly with too much tail out of the conduit. With one problem solved another will make itself readily available. The PTO cable snapped off at the handle. I have another one ordered already because the threads were stripped anyway. Finding one has been difficult due to all the tornadoes last week but I managed. I'm sure I paid a premium for it. Anyhow, do you know if the PTO handle and cable is an integrated assembly or can you dismantle the handle and reinstall the cable? Another worrisome discovery is that he had bypassed the safety switch altogether by splicing the leads together about the transmission cover. That is the next thing after the PTO I plan to tackle. Anyway, thanks for the help and information. I am sure we will all become fast friends before it is all said and done. After the cussing is done a stoic determination not to be outfoxxed by a hunk of metal descends

PS...The transmission oil light on the shifter....I know one wire goes to the sensor under the transmission cover. Where does the other wire go. My wiring diagram is somewhat vague on that.....