12 volt conversion

Good evening all,

I am finally getting around to my 12 volt conversion on the 971 (currently 6V). From following past threads it seems I need the following pieces and parts:

- 37 amp, 3 wire alternator from NAPA $45 + $10 (core charge)
- new 12 volt battery
- step down resistor for coil or a new 12 volt coil
- new termianl block (currently no terminal block present)
- preferably new battery cables (old ones are automotive)
- misc. washers, spacers, etc. to make it fit and line up right

Thanks to John I have a wonderful wiring diagram. I do have a couple of questions.

1) The salesman at NAPA said the step down resistor would not protect 6V headlights adequately. I had previously looked into wiring in series, but with the one arm bandit on, I only have one 6V light to wire. Easiest to replace with 12 V headlight, but I hate fixing something that isn't broke. Comments?

2) It seems the NAPA alternator is going to come with a pulley set up for something smaller than a 1/2" belt that I need. Will the pulley off the stock generator typically transfer?

3) NAPA doesn't have a replacement terminal block per se. They do have some fuse blocks (set up for pop in bus fuses) that looked like they would work fine as a termianl block. Just don't put the fuse in and get the type with screws on each end. Any luck finding a more typical terminal block somewhere else?

4) Lastly, I have some 12 guage wire on hand, but I expect I should have something heavier for the power line from the alternator, 8 guage? Will the 12 guage work for the other lines?

Any comments appreciated, thanks for the help.

Chris

forget the resistor.. justr get a napa ic14sb 16$ 12v coil...

DO get the real 12v lamp

12 or 14 awg wire is fine on the tractor except for the charge wire which I'd like 10 minimum or 8. A 'pair' of 12awg would 'work'.. I've been in a pinch and had to do that before.. not ideal.. but works.

terminal block?? if you have a 2 post ammeter, just use it.. the electrons don't care.

all loads (lamps, ignition, etc )and charge wire on one terminal, other terminal to battery.... that's the easiest net charge/discharge wire diagram there is.....

soundguy ( who has his 850 wired up with 2 strands of 12awg on the alternator charge line working perfectly.. )


soundguy

O'reilly's alternator $35 plus core life time warranty to boot. As for wiring it kick me an e-mail and I'll give you my phone number and explain it to you and it is so easy that a 5 year old could do it. Now if you where close to Columbia I could even help you do it since I'll be up there Feb 19th

For goodness sake, go with the 12V (IC14SB) coil and eliminate that misery right from the start. You're buying a coil anyway. Buy the right one.
Get a new 12V headlight.
Wire the alt with minimum of 10 AWG wire. I've used as heavy as 4 AWG on long runs with higher output alt's but 10 should be fine for you if 8 is not easily available.
The starter relay should function plenty well as a terminal block, as it does now if that's all you need. Personally I'd probably go with a bus type fuse block and fuse the lights and anything else you might add through that...

If the generator pulley won't fit, take the alt pulley off and go to a machine shop with a new belt and have them spin the pulley out to size for 1/2" or 5/8" that you need. Cost you about 20 bucks...

Rod

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the comments and will let you know how it goes.

Chris

Watch what alternator you buy. Do not get a 3 o"clock. The wires will hit the block. I use a 12 o"clock alternator. If you do not under stand that let me know and I will explain.

I use the stock belt pully and a replacment belt on my alternator. The belt rides a little low in the crank pully but it works fine.

You can see how I mounted my alternator <a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y137/johnLA/enginedatecode1.jpg">Here</a>
with nothing more than a piece of all thread rod and some nuts and washers.

Forget the resistor. Do it right the first time and get a 12v coil and light bulbs.

Automotive battery cables work on 12 volts not 6 volts. If your cables are good enough for 6 volts they will work on 12 volts.

Use your 12 gauge wire on everthing except the charge wire. Get a small roll of 10 gauge for this.

Tell the kid at Napa to learn his job. They list terminal blocks as "junction block".
<a href="http://napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHJB3113_0000999999">terminal block</a>

Now one question...........
Since you have a 901 you do plan to use the dash warning light.
This is the way this alternator was set up to work.

Well that link for napa did not work so lets do it this way..........

JUNCTION BLOCK
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part # ECH JB3113
$2.99

(quoted from post at 09:32:41 01/20/10) Well that link for napa did not work so lets do it this way..........

JUNCTION BLOCK
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part # ECH JB3113
$2.99

&lt;img src="http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/103468.jpg"&gt;

Click to expand...

Thanks John,

Yes I will be using the charge indicator lamp (no ammeter), though I have an ammeter guage I could install if I desired to and wanted to remove my non-functioning fuel guage, I don't.

Thanks for the correct NAPA terminoligy. This was an old timer helping me, I'm surprised he didn't find that. I have some type of replacement wiring harness and no terminal block currently. I think as little as there is, I will get the terminal block and rewire all together. Thanks for your help.

Chris

John,

Thanks for the photo on your tractor. I see NAPA has a 3 o'clock and a 9 o'clock, so I will opt for the 9 o'clock (2134010B). Your point of getting a new belt makes sense as well, though I will look into swapping pulleys first. Thanks again for all the help.

Chris

what's the part number to the alternator

Don't know the part number but if you ask for one that fits a 1980 Chev 1/2 ton pick up NO POWER any thing you will get the one I'm talking about

I think the Chevy truck Old is refuring to uses a delco 12si alternator set at 3 o'clock.
Will work but not your best choice because the wires are up against the block.
While you can get a lifetime warrenty in that alternator it is a little more than $35 more like $45


If I were to recomend a alternator I would stick with a Delco 10si in the 9 o'clock or even better the 12 o'clock version.

For the 9 o'clock version ask for a alternator to fit a 1979 Buick Regal, 8 cylinder 4.9L (301W) engine, with air conditioning.
Orielly part # 01-0041X
Comes with a 1 year warrenty and cost $39.99 + $15 core.
The life time warrenty is part # 01-0041 and cost $49.99 + core.

For the 12 o'clock version ask for a alternator to fit a 1977 Pontiac Grand Prix, 8cylinder 5.7L (350R) engine, with air conditioning and rear window defrost.
The Orielly part numbers are
01-0043X One year warrenty and 01-0043 lifetime. Same price as the one above.