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Clutch information

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Michael

01-11-2001 18:48:03




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I have a 1951 TO-30. When I crank the tractor and push the clutch all the way in, I have trouble getting it into gear and when I do get it into gear, the tractor takes off even with the clutch pushed in. I've adjusted the clutch several times which takes care of the problem for a small amount of time. Also without a bushhog hooked up, the clutch will not disengage until the brake is pushed in. Then the clutch will disengage. PTO is stuck in the on position. Is this part of the problem? Does anyone know what type of clutch the tractor takes? I was at a parts place, and they said there were two types of clutches, and the type of clutch depended on the shaft size. How can I find out this info without breaking the tractor in half? Thank you.

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Dave

01-13-2001 04:38:26




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 Re: Clutch information in reply to Michael, 01-11-2001 18:48:03  
Three things I have seen that cause the same reaction. First is a oil soaked disc, there can be a lot of oil leakage from the bell housing before this happens, so it is not the most likly. The next two happen quite often if you live in a humid climate. The clutch input shaft gets very rusty and even with the pressure plate pulled away from the disc, the disc is bound up on the shaft and is not free to float between the plate and the flywheel. The other happens when the metal webbing of the disc actually rusts to the plate or the flywheel. The disc has got quite a lot of metal in it to keep the friction material from tearing appart under high friction conditions. In my Triumph sports car ( same clutch, same engine as TO20...) it would happen each time I would wash the engine then put the car away for a week or so. With the car I would put it in 3rd gear, start it and drive it around with the clutch pushed in, jerking it until the clutch broke loose ( remember, cars dont flip easily, tractors do!). With a rusty input shaft, tape a couple of wands together and spray WD40 on the shaft.A little on the clutch wont hurt anything, and will burn off quickly so get it sprayed good. If I remember correctly, there is pretty good access to the shaft through the starter switch. Do you live in a humid climate? When we lived in Mn. the above things were fairly common place.
Just some thoughts, Dave

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dennis

01-12-2001 09:13:04




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 Re: Clutch information in reply to Michael, 01-11-2001 18:48:03  
If you need to replace the clutch, it's a job - you gotta split the tractor. I was surprised when I split mine 52 TO30 that the clutch disk used in the Fergy is actually the exact same one the Ford used in all it's cars starting in the late 1928 Model A and right up into the early 1950's. My clutch alignment tool for the Model A worked fine. It's a very available disk.



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Ray,IN

01-11-2001 20:35:59




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 Re: Clutch information in reply to Michael, 01-11-2001 18:48:03  
When I first aquired my TO30, the clutch was sticking. I eased up to a tree and slipped the clutch until it started working. I had to do this 4-5 times, Then with regular usage, it worked fine-still does.I assume rust had formed on the flywheel. I figured if it didn't free it, I hadn't lost anything. Sure beat splitting the tractor, that was 10yrs. ago.



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