IH 484 Incredibly Slow Hydraulics (Front End Loader)

I have an IH 484 with a Bush Hog 2400QT front end loader. The lift cylinders were leaking really bad to the point that I lost enough fluid that the brakes stopped building pressure. I finally broke down and rebuild the lift cylinders. When I put them back on and topped up the trans/hydraulic fluid I have to run the engine wide open to get any lift at all on the loader. They brakes are still spongy so that tells me there is still air in the system. I'm going to try bleeding brakes tomorrow. Is there a good way to bleed the hydraulics? I cracked the lines at the lift cylinder till the oil flowed out, but still super slow.

Also it was slow compared to my neighbors loader before, but now it barely moves at all. I'm sure it's just air, but not sure the best way to get rid of it.

Thanks for help!
-Josh
 

The loader cylinders should self-bleed. Cycle the loader cylinders full stroke both ways a number of times. May sure the fluid level stays up during this time to avoid introducing air.
 
@old, I'll order a new one and try swapping that out.

@Jim.ME, I'll give that a go as well. Are the brakes on the same hydraulic system or do they have a separate reservoir I can't find?
 
Is this a loader that has been on this tractor for some time? It worked find and than just started to act like this slow?
First thing I would check is fluid level and than as old said change the filter. I was also told to dead head the remotes it could be
a stuck valve in the MCV.
 
@Oldiron29, Yeah it worked until the seals went. Just rebuild the cylinders. Started acting slow after reinstalling them. I topped up the fluid.
 
Hello Josh welcome to YT! The brakes use hydraulic
fluid pumped up to to the master cylinders for use.
Some of the models had the reservoirs shown in the
link. You can get to all the parts diagrams from the link.
At the top left just click on your tractor model next to
the ..Home symbol. If by chance you do must of your
surfing with a phone, I would strongly suggest to use a
PC for the CNHI parts site.
CNHI IH 484 online parts diagrams
 
Change filter as said then fill to level with appropriate oil. run till up to operating temperature which if it is real cold out you might not be able to do. Once warmed up put a gage and coupler together and plug into your hydraulic coupler at PTO engine speed and come back with the pressure reading should be in the 1800-2500 range if not then it could be the MCV or a possible pump failure. You really need a flow rater to measure the pump flow and pressure to the best of accuracy. That takes pressure gauges and a flow meter. IT could also be done with extra pails of oil added then run a hose from coupler to a 5 gallon pail, with a timer or larger container like a small barrel. Run for a given time like for 30seconds or 15 seconds then measure the oil quantity to see what the output is with a valve in the hoes and restricted to the operating pressure of the system you will then know if the pump is bad or not. they can pump plenty of volume at no or low pressure or just a small amount at a higher pressure both will be inadequate for the job. I don't know what your friend neighbor has for a loader but you only have about a 9-12 gallon per minute pump and if he has a 20 gallon pump his will be faster. As for the brakes it is the same oil and reservoir as the hydraulic. There should be a bleeder for each side. Open and let bleed till you get solid oil with no bubbles,then close. Brakes should be good not spongy.
 
@catepillar guy Thanks for the info! I'm going to look into the pressure valve after a few other things.

So today, I bled the brakes and ran the lift through it's paces. It did get faster than yesterday but still very slow. The pump is pretty loud as well.

Before I finished the cycles I noticed fluid down by my right foot. Turns out my brake master cylinders are leaking as well. So I'm ordering a hydraulic filter and rebuild kits for the brake master cylinders tonight. Once I have the cylinders rebuilt, and filter changed, I'll see how that works out. If still having slow lift, I'll start looking into measuring pressure.
 
Okay! Just an update for you guys!

I got all the parts in to rebuild my brake master cylinders and brake equalizer. I also changed the hydraulic and fuel filters. Got the tractor fired up and it works better than it ever has!

The filter was awful clogged. Thank you all for your help! I videoed the process for anyone interested. I should have all the videos up by the weekend. I'll post them here when they are in case anyone would be interested!

Thanks again,
Josh
 
For what it's worth, I did video some of this process.

In this video I rebuilt the brake master cylinders:

https://youtu.be/U_cHkq0WDJM

In this one, I changed the hydraulic filter, a few hoses, fuel filters, made a mess, and cleaned out the air filter:

https://youtu.be/1E6iT4F3UIA

This one, I rebuilt the brake equalizer only spending about $30 by cross referencing the parts actually needed in the $250 rebuild kit. Part numbers listed in the video.

https://youtu.be/z8o7cUHHQto

And in this one I get it all buttoned up and working!

https://youtu.be/p1wuptsimmo

I am not an expert, nor do I claim to be one, so keep that in mind. I'm having fun tinkering and if I can help someone with my struggle, great!

Hope y'all like the videos. Thank you all for your help!

-Josh

p.s. not sharing the videos for promotional purposes, just so that if someone is having similar issues they can see how I fixed them.
 

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