Super M muffler

All red tractor people lend me your hearts and minds please. I've got a small problem. I put a new muffler on this tractor and it has 3 slits made into it I guess so it will slide down on the manifold. My problem is that exhaust is coming out around these areas and allowing it to smug up my hood. I'm wondering if I've got the wrong muffler or what. I put the clamp as close to the top where the slits start but cannot clamp it tight enough to stop the exhaust leak.

are u using the actual band clamp that they came with ? , and not the automotive muffler clamp. is it 2 1/2 inlet on the muffler? and is it a
tractor muffler? and also your manifold pipe can be thin from the years of heat that it wont seal. so measure your inlet and if it is 2 1/2
then thats what you need. so its one of the above situations.

I believe the exhaust pipe out of the hood is 2 inch schedule 40 pipe. that is 2.375 OD or smaller if rusted some!! Jim

it takes a 2 inch tap for the manifold threads, but muffler inlet is 2.5 inches. on these m's and w6's. w9 uses 3 inch inlet and w4 and h uses 2 1/4 inlet , my finding and i dont have leaks when clamping them. it is getting confusing.

Well they make a muffler/ Pipe clamp that will not leak , They are stainless steel wrap around total seal . They come in all sizes , i first started usen them on my semi as between the heat , road salt the U type clams rotted away in a year or so and nothing is more aggravating then having your exhaust system falling off five hundred miles from home either on a nasty cold snowy night out in the middle of nowhere or during a flat rocken rainstorm. . NOW they ain't cheap but they do seal as i run one on my S/MTA . also they ain't pretty as they are BIG

Common problem with some mufflers. If pipe is good a 2-3/8 ID inlet fits. Places now list aftermarket ones with inlets of 2-3/8 and bigger for a M and SM. Will list two or three different inlet iD sizes for mufflers for the same tractor. This site shows some 2-3/8.if they have the ID correct in listing. Worn pipe or inlet to big, try thin metal like a can to bush fit.

I have gotten longer schedule 40 pipes, maybe 3 inches longer,for most of M's and use band clamps, it doesn't get on the paint anymore !!

The slots are there to allow the muffler to crush down and seal over the pipe.

First thing the muffler needs to go down over the pipe far enough to completely cover the slots in the muffler inlet. If the muffler is hitting the manifold before that can happen, you need to replace the pipe. That can be a challenge because the pipe is usually rusty and the threads in the manifold need help. It's 2" NPT, which you can get at any hardware store or Home Depot. The tap for 2" NPT is expensive to buy so if you need one you need to find someone to borrow it from. Hopefully you know a good plumber.

I tried cleaning the threads in mu H Farmall,dint work very good, and the tap was brand new ,sharp, i had a 10 foot cheater on it,i could about tip the tractor over, cut very little, a waste of time sorry, that was my experience! i had to buy a new manifold for that one !

Pipe length can vary (how much is sticking
out of the hood). This of course depends on
if the pipe in the manifold has ever been
replaced, and if it was cut to factory
length or just left at some other length.

That said, how much manifold pipe you got
sticking out of the hood for muffler
instalation might vary. You might have 3
inches to work with, or you might have 6.

You might play around with some aluminum
from a pop/beer can. Cut the ends off and
up one side. Use side wall of can, to go in
between the muffler pipe and manifold pipe.
This will add a little diameter to the
manifold pipe, and may also shut off some
air flow to the slits. You might also play
around with muffler clamps (different
styles).

I have had mufflers rust themselves on to
the manifold pipe so bad that they had to
be torched or chiseled off. All because
they were put on the manifold pipe about as
far as they could go. The end of the
muffler inlet pipe clear down to the hood.
So if I ever install one, I only put the
muffler on so the top of the slits is just
below the top of manifold pipe because of
this reason. But, ... I'm not trying to
protect the hood from some minor exhaust
leakage. But just be warned, if you are
installing the muffler so its on as far as
it can possibly go.

its a very slow process to get the threads recut. you need lots of rapid tap oil and you can only go in with maybe 1/4 turn then back it out clean up the tap and just keep redoing this. that carbon in there is way worst than just threading metal. i spend a couple hrs just to clean up the old threads. i was using a 36 inch pipe wrench with a 3 ft snip on it. biggest thing is to get the first thread started. i was more worried about breaking the manifold.

Had the same problem. I cut a piece of asbestos paper like duct work used to be wrapped in and worked it between the pipe and muffler. Ellis

(quoted from post at 23:29:38 01/05/23) are u using the actual band clamp that they came with ? , and not the automotive muffler clamp. is it 2 1/2 inlet on the muffler? and is it a
tractor muffler? and also your manifold pipe can be thin from the years of heat that it wont seal. so measure your inlet and if it is 2 1/2
then thats what you need. so its one of the above situations.

Click to expand...

Thanks everybody for the ideas.

you need a new pipe coming from the manifold the old one is rusted away enough so the new muffler is not a tight fit not uncommin
just replace the pipe and your troubles will be over just place the muffler on a new pipe and you will see it fits