WD45 continued.

Got the fan hub all loosened up and working good. Put a new fan belt on and all new rad hoses. New alternator as well. Running good with no leaks although Im
concerned about the rad. May have to change it out. Time will tell. Grandson was down on the weekend and grampa took him out to the garage to show him his surprise
and was he ever excited and happy. Grampa finally has an orange tractor. His favorite color. Every thing seems to be working good but Im not sure about the belt pulley.
The pto works fine but the belt pulley does not turn. Cant find a lever or way to engage it. Maybe there is something wrong internally ??

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The set screw is removed and the whole assembly is slid in until the gears mesh. There are a series of holes for the set screw in the engaged position to allow for proper gear lash. Typically you just slide it straight in, and the hole will come into view. Then the pulley will be live, and will only stop when the engine clutch is disengaged.
 
To engage the belt pulley, there is a set screw bolt with a nut under it, should be on the top behind the pulley, that you loosen and push the pulley in towards the frame. You may have to rock the pulley to align the gears, then tighten the setscrew bolt. For safety do this with the engine off!
 
As Bob said below you have to find the hole in the belt pulley housing that gives you good engagement, just a little backlash or play. Rotate the housing to find different holes for more or less engagement, moving the housing in or out for more or less engagement in the different holes. Gears are lubed by the hydraulic oil so it should be up to the full mark. If you remove the belt pulley hydraulic oil will run out the hole. There is a stamped sheet metal plug that blocks the hole if you don't want the belt pulley in. For loaders it may cause interference. It does with the AC Freeman loader according to the manual for the loader.
 
Dad used to have the tube which was the storage for the pulley. The tractor plug was stored in the end of the tube when the pulley was mounted on the tractor. I recall reading somewhere that when the correct hole was located, a puncture wound punch mark should be made so the correct hole wasn't lost.
 
Thank you Bob. I read something in my diesel WD45 manual that talked about the dealer making marks to get proper alignment. Ill check that out.
 
No problem, I like what you are doing with the 45. You might also want to check and possibly change the oil in the final drives. Many don't think of them and sometimes the oil is ancient and thick and nasty. You need to remove the pan to change it but there is a level/filler plug where you can fairly easily check it.
 
When my dad traded in our WC for a WD, the dealers mechanic took the old belt pulley from the WC and set the mesh to the WD, and made scribe marks for us to use from then on.
 
When I drained the other oils out of the tractor I checked the level on the final drives. They where down a bit but the oil looked pretty good still. I will be changing them as well at some point. I pushed the belt pulley in and it meshed with the gears good and worked fine. Can I assume that its okay to pull it back out to where it was when not using the belt pulley so that it is not turning all the time when using the tractor. Next step is to get it to town and put it on a dyno to see how good the engine is and power wash it and wait for the first vintage tractor pull in our area. Thank you to all the people on this site for the helpful posts so far on this project. It is appreciated. This picture just showing damage from a front end loader as suggested by a post on this site.
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Yes, you can disengage the belt pulley again. Maybe want to make a mark where it is to make it easier to put back into gear in the future if you wanted. I see you have wheel weights. You might want to know if the rear tires are loaded and if a scale is nearby weigh the tractor before you go for the pulling so you aren't surprised at weigh in. Then it will come down to balance, how much weight you may want one the front to hold it down. Keep us informed whey you do get to pull.
 
Hi 4wdtom. Thank you. I figured that would be okay. When I have the tractor in town I will be weighing it on a certified scale. I also plan on changing out the rear tires for the ones on my spare parts tractor before I do that. They are in better shape. If theres fluid in them I will get rid of that to. You wouldnt happen to know how much the weights weigh for these tractors. Thanks again.
 
I don't know the weight of the wheel weights but rear wheel weights usually weigh around 140 lbs. On the chipped belt pulley, probably not form the loader as the chips are broken from the inside of the pulley. Maybe from trying to pry it out with a bar? Who knows. And at this point it doesn't matter.
 
You can remove that belt pulley completely and install a steel cover to block off the hole. I think I have one on a parts tractor with a bad motor.
 
Hi Mark. I have that cover on a parts tractor here as well. I might put it on but kinda like the looks of these old tractors with the belt pulley on. Thanks.
 

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