I need to split my D15 to do the engine clutch. At least I think it's the engine clutch and not the shuttle clutch (if anybody has a good diagnostic test that would rule out that possibility I'd love to know that too). I am going to need to build a splitting stand for the front end, and supporting the side rails doesn't look like it would be hard to figure out, but Im not sure about how to also support the engine. I do have an old engine hoist if it's easier to pull the engine. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Pete
 
Do you really have a shuttle clutch, and not a power director? Do you have a PTO? If the engine clutch is slipping to where you can stop the tractor, the PTO will stop also.
 
(quoted from post at 14:44:31 01/17/23) I need to split my D15 to do the engine clutch. At least I think it's the engine clutch and not the shuttle clutch (if anybody has a good diagnostic test that would rule out that possibility I'd love to know that too). I am going to need to build a splitting stand for the front end, and supporting the side rails doesn't look like it would be hard to figure out, but Im not sure about how to also support the engine. I do have an old engine hoist if it's easier to pull the engine. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Pete

Before you do anything, make sure you have two inches MINIMUM of clutch pedal freeplay !!! Adjust the clutch pedal rod inward !!
 
(quoted from post at 16:19:08 01/17/23) Do you really have a shuttle clutch, and not a power director? Do you have a PTO? If the engine clutch is slipping to where you can stop the tractor, the PTO will stop also.

I don't know what it's actually called i guess. The handle is on the left side, push it forward to go forward, pull it back to go backwards. There is no pto, and the loader hydraulics run off of a front pump.
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:29 01/18/23) Is that 2 inches measured from the bottom of the pedal? Thanks
Two inches of free movement where your foot rests on the pedal. Two inches of FREEPLAY !! That gives you about 1/4" distance between the throwout bearing and the three pressure plate fingers inside the bellhousing. You can see that thru a hole on the bottom.
 
I replaced my clutch 1 year ago. As far as the shuttle clutch, it is my understanding there is a forward shuttle clutch and a also reverse one. If tractor under load goes forward and not reverse or vice versa then the shuttle clutch is the problem. If the tractor slips in both directions it the primary clutch. Replacing the clutch is very involved because you have to drop front axle and power steering box and fluid connections.

I built a platform to support the engine on a 3 by 4 foot dolly with heavy metal casters. I put the back half of the tractor on four jack stands and slid engine forward on the stand. My thought was that using this method would minimize clutch/center hub spline and input shaft alignment issues. From memory the front side rails bolt to bell housing and come off.

I would gladly talk to you about the clutch replacement. My D15 has a Henry backhoe and loader. There is a commercial clutch available (NOT cheap) that is for heavy duty use. I kind of wish I had spent extra for that.

Check your flywheel teeth, you can buy a new aftermarket ring gear. The ring gear only goes on the flywheel one way it cannot be reversed. Find an automotive/truck machine shop that grinds flywheels and have them true the flywheel and they can change the ring gear. You don't want to do the clutch job twice.
 
I should have stated that my D15 has a gas engine. Radiator and all front sheet metal has to be removed as well.
 
Thanks for the response. I'm in the process of welding together a splitting stand on casters to support the side rails and engine at the bell housing. I'm sure I'll have other questions once I get it split.
 

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