If you have a junction box in the system, just unhook them all, then run a test lead with a light fuse or circuit breaker in it, and put power to each leg out of the junction box til you find the one that is drawing too much amperage. You can use a multimeter, but the one I have is only rated for 10 amps for X seconds every so many minutes, as I imagine all but the very top-end units would be.
If you have room in the J/box I would also run a hot lead back to it, stick the lights on a relay, and then the relay would be the only thing that your brake switch would power.
Also, what kind of plug do your lights have? Check the 3-way plug on the back of your lights if it has the sealed lights like semi-trucks run. I have had a connector corrode and feed power between the tail lamps and the brake lights.
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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