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Update on my MIG issues

B

Bret4207

Well-known Member
Some weeks back I posted about my trouble learning ow to MIG weld and getting things to work right. Well, I got the job done and learned a few things along the way.

I changed to .024 wire from .035. That made supporting an arc without burn through on sheet metal easier. I discovered MIG needs DEAD CLEAN metal to work nice, at least in this case. When welding new sheet to new sheet I got real nice welds. When welding new sheet to old metal, even though it was ground to clean metal, the arc was different sounding and quality not so good. MIG sucks with rust, just useless. The CO2/Argon flow at the recommended 10lt/min wasn't enough, or my gauge is wrong. Getting a good weld on sheet with MIG appears to be a game of tiny adjustments with the material I was using. A little more wire speed here, a little less there. This was with my Cebora MIG unit. I'm getting the parts together to put the Miller 172 back into operation, but I don't think it's the welders problem, I think it's getting this old dog to learn new tricks!
 
glad ya got it figgured out. best advice i was ever given with mig, is if it sounds like eggs frying in hot bacon grease.......you got it set right!!!!.. hhmmmmmm......makes me kinda hungry for breakfast!!
 
ground makes a big difference make sure its on clean metal or it will pop and sputter like there is no gas flow
 
My Hobart MIG welder has a chart inside the access door giving recommendations for various wire sizes and settings for any given thickness of metal. I found my welds improved greatly when I followed the recommendations on the chart.
 
When I was putting a set of rocker panels on my son's 2001 Silverado I spent a lot of time practicing on some junk doors from a '98. I went from the .035 down to a .023 which required new feed rollers for the welder. That made a huge difference. I found it could be done with the larger wire but it was better for me with the smaller. Then I started welding on the truck and was blowing through constantly......the material used in the '98 panels I was practicing on were slightly thicker than the ones on the '01. A few small adjustments and I was good to go!

My first failed attempt...

mvphoto15567.jpg


And after adjustments and a new piece made...



mvphoto15568.jpg
 
we have been doing the adhesive bonding on rockers, cab corners and bedsides. seals the seams so it doesnt rust thru
 
I imagine that would be a whole lot quicker than fitting and welding. You must have to overlap the panels I'm guessing, I butt welded these ones. I did spray a lot of fluid film into the cavity once it was all done and plan to make it a yearly application. I've got too much work into it to see it rust again too soon!
 
TIG also requires dead cleanliness. I used acetone while welding 308 Stainless in the Nuclear Powerhouses. You needed to clean the SS welding wire with a Scotchbrite, than use a lintfree rag with acetone to clean the rod. Also acetone on the weld area.
 
Sounds like a wire or gas issue to me. And
the metal does NOT have to be perfect, I've
welded tons of steel and clean is better,
but you can weld trough quite a lot if
everything is set right. There is a lot of
difference in wire brands and for thin
stuff like body panels that is especially
true.
 
If you want to do mig welding, but don't have the experience look into the Miller AutoSet mig welders. Set one dial for the wire diameter, and set the other for the thickness of the metal you are welding (it sets the wire speed, and amps so you don't have to).
 
I started with a wire feed in 1985,for a pit owner I worked for.I was used to a Lincoln motor driven welder,and the welding rep asked if I felt I was capable of unlearning what I had always done.I've barely picked up a stick since.He did drive the clean metal thing into me,instead of just melting through the junk.After using a couple dozen 44 pound spools of wire I can melt through rust and paint,but it is much easier to clean first.I developed the habit of hitting all my joints with a little hand held sandblaster first.It just makes life so much easier,and helps for a pretty weld.I run .045 wire on most equipment welding,and .030 for general around the shop use.I keep a little welder setup with .025 for the thin stuff.The big welder is a Linde Migmaster 250.I can't get away with any contamination welding thin stuff.
 
For tig welding, the cleaner the steel you are welding is the easier, and better it welds, the same goes for mig welding. Paint, mill scale (like what's on hot rolled steel), slag left on after cutting with a torch, and any rust will mess up a weld. If you want to weld something that has some paint, mill scale, slag, rust, and if you don't want to grind it all clean stick welding it with a 6011 rod is your best bet.
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:12 04/26/18) what wire are you running.? we use ER70S-6 here at the body shop. also works on hsla steel too.
Click to expand...

It's Lincoln brand mild steel, not sure on #.
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:12 04/26/18) what wire are you running.? we use ER70S-6 here at the body shop. also works on hsla steel too.
Click to expand...

Any particular brand?
 
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