1936 case cc

Swarty1973

New User
Just picked up our 1936 case cc from our farm in SW Iowa and brought it to S Texas where I live now. It's been in our family since it was new and still runs fine. I plan on freshening it up and I'd like to pull a few local events once in a while and figured I would build a little performance into it. I'd like any suggestions from you guys concerning the work I should do to the engine. I don't want an all out pulling tractor but I'd like to put a little giddy up in it. One guy said I should put a DC cylinder head # 5576A and 4" high compression pistons out of a DC or bore block and put 4 3/8" pistons, later model dc carb or 800 series carb and get the cam reground.
 
First: I am not a big fan of reground
cams unless you're going to be turning
30% or more over stock rpm. Maybe
degree it in with a bit more advance
than original to benefit from another
200 or so rpm. Specs on that engine
shows 4.88-1 compression. Getting it
on up around 8 or so to 1 will be a
huge benefit without destroying "field
driveability ". Bigger pistons,
higher dome, head and manifold
cleaning will all help. Just depends
on how hot you want it and/or how much
your willing to spend. Good luck.
(Also: should go to some pulls and
watch, look, listen and even ask a few
questions. Have seen more than a few
folks that did no "homework" before
coming out and got embarrassed enough
to not come back. More to it than
engaging the clutch and holding on) .
 
Thanks for the info. This tractor will just be sitting in the garage, field days are over now I have it. Maybe parades and some pulls, just something to play with. Figured since I'm fixing it up, I'd massage the engine a little, not all out pulling though. Would like to keep it looking stock. Pretty sure I won't be using the hand crank if I up the compression but that's ok, I can pull start it if I have to (it has broken 2 arms in its lifetime anyway). Hopefully someone who's build a cc or dc can help out with a very descriptive build, I'm not looking to do trial and error, this is the first tractor I've ever restored.
 
Thanks for the info. This tractor will just be sitting in the garage, field days are over now I have it. Maybe parades and some pulls, just something to play with. Figured since I'm fixing it up, I'd massage the engine a little, not all out pulling though. Would like to keep it looking stock. Pretty sure I won't be using the hand crank if I up the compression but that's ok, I can pull start it if I have to (it has broken 2 arms in its lifetime anyway). Hopefully someone who's build a cc or dc can help out with a very descriptive build, I'm not looking to do trial and error, this is the first tractor I've ever restored.
 
Another you thing you could do Swarty, is look at the rules for the pulling classes in your area. They might have max tire sizes and hitch placement guidelines to keep in mind. Typical rules for hitches would be 18" back from the axle and 20" above the ground. Moving the hitch up and close like that helps for traction. I don't pull a Case but you're on track with what you are thinking.
 
If you're keeping stock tire size
and stock draw bar and your engine
is in good shape u will not need
more power. Get the 4" bore kit
from Don Livingston on eBay a dc
head won't be bad idea. Been
pulling DC's for 17 years in
factory class to 5500lbs not run
out of power yet.
 
what's the difference between the engine/drivetrain of a dc and a cc? Higher compression? Better head design? Different gearing?
 
Cc case has a slightly higher 1st
gear. And a different low
compression head. I just pulled my
tired DC yesterday with a short
draw bar at 20" with 18.4x34
tires. Good all fuel head 4" bore
that's pretty weak in one
cylinder. 5500 pounds. And still
spins out.
 

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