Manifold Nuts

I bought new brass nuts and heavy flat washers when I replaced the intake exhaust manifold on my tractor.

torqued them per the manual specifications.

that was a few years and so far the tractor still runs good.
 
Yep, like Bruce said, 7/16-20 brass hex nuts torqued at 27 ft/lbs and use steel lockwashers. Here's a link below and for five bucks you can't beat it. Torque wrenches must be used properly too. Torque sequence is properly done in three steps. Thus, 27 divided by 3 equals 9. First setting at 9 ft/lbs. 2nd attempt at 18 ft/lbs, and 3rd attempt at 27 ft/lbs. Run tractor up to operating temperature -good and hot. Let cool and retorque at final 27 ft/lb. setting. It doesn't hurt to check every so often either. Never use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners as this decreases its life. Be sure you are reading the correct scale on your torque wrench. Often they have more than one scale. My Armstrong wrenches all have ft/lbs; in/lbs; and Newton Meters. Always take the backlash out of adjustment lead screw by backing off setting and slowly turning in one direction up to desired setting, then lock in place with the locking mechanism on wrench.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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Manifold Nuts & Washers
 
I have the hood off for the leaking radiator--as it turned out it was the lower hose that leaked. Radiator test came back tight. (Not the water pump as there is no obvious weeping distorting the dust/grease from around it.) Anyhow, while I have the hood off, I am replacing the plugs, plug wires, and belt since some of them are about ten years old and it is much easier with the hood gone. What was interesting is that I noticed the ignition coil (IC 7) had a good deal of corrosion in the top where the distributor wire comes snaps in.

Is there a decent way to clean it up, or just toss the coil and put in a new one? FYI, I have noticed no problems with the spark or starting.
 
I use mineral spirits a lot for cleaning parts and greasy, dirty tractor areas. I keep a plastic spray bottle filled and hit external areas to be cleaned but make sure the runoff isn't going to contaminate the ground or shop floor so I use a large galvanized wash tub as a drip pan underneath. The tub collects the runoff and can be used to soak parts too. After spraying dirty areas like the distributor I use my air gun to blow off the loose crud. If you have a jug of charcoal lighter fluid around you can use that too as it is 100% mineral spirits.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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