Lost fire at points

to30man

Member
My flooding from the new carb I think came
from no fire. With the switch on I have 12
volts all the way to the resistor. One side
has 12 the other 7 and then on to the coil
first side has 7 and the other 0 and 0 at
the coil. Should it be 12 at the coil. When
I figured out it was not firing I went to
clean the points and the copper strap just
came right off and I replaced it with a
small wire with two ends. Me and this
tractor have not been getting along to well
this past week
 
I will check in the morning. If voltage is
right what would cause no spark at all
thanks for the help
 
The voltage is the same with the points open. I can remove the wire coming from the coil to the bottom of the distributor and can get 12 volts and out it back in and get nothing. The wire inside that goes to the points what keeps it from grounding in the case
 
Sounds like you have something touching the case inside.
One point of failure is the insulator that goes through the
side of the distributor. That can break and ground out.
With a wire installed recently I would suspect the wire may
be touching where it shouldn't first.
You could run the wire from the coil straight to the points
as a test. I wouldn't leave it that way for long.
 
8N, right?

Confirm that you have voltage to the coil. Battery voltage, points open. About half that if the points are closed.

Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? (with the points open, put one probe on one side of the points & the other probe on the opposite side of the points) Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler gauge blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. As Royse said, that is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.
75 Tips
 
Thanks the piece between the wire I intalled
was shaped lol a L and it broke at the bend
it looked like a copper piece to be but it
must be made out of some type of insulated
product
 

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