35 Axle seal

Changing axle seals and need to know how to get outer seal retainer off axle. I tried to pry and hit with hammer but thought I may break housing. Richard what do I need to do? Ask Tony. LOL Sent picture if needed.

The heat shrink bearing collar must be drilled/split, then the collar and bearing removed before the seal retainer housing can be removed. New collar is heated and placed against the bearing on reassembly.. Not a fun job, especially if the collar is not hot enough and sticks to the shaft too soon before it's against the bearing before it shrinks in place.

Do I need to replace the outer seal? I have the seal, replaced inner. It looks like the inner seal would keep oil from reaching the outer seal.

I got tried just thinking about dieseltech's instructions.
If you didn't put any oil in there, none will leak out! That's easy enough ain't it?
One or two of these models had a? 'grease between the seals'? Sort of thing? I think that was my diesel 35, one seal kept dirt out, other kept oil in, grease was inbetween for the duration. When I'm done with my nap, I will look it up...

I'll wait until you get here and we both can learn something. LOL

Manual instructions are to grease bearing your talking about every 1000 hrs. Have you keep yours greased? Bet mine has the original grease along with all other tractors. LOL

Hi, that's ok, take a bit longer with your nap.
The outer seal is to keep dirt, debris and water out. The inner one is to keep the oil on the diff side. The inner
ones are cheap and easy to replace using a large socket or suitable piece of tube. In the UK the original grease used
was a dull yellow in colour and must have been good stuff as even now I remove an axle shaft on a 35 and find the
yellow grease. Of course it might have been replaced by a dealer....who knows?
Before the seals are replaced the axles should be set up for end-float. This is done by removing or adding shims
between the axle casing and backplate. When the bolts are tightened there should be end-float on the axle shafts of
2-4 thou. Any more and the shafts will start to bang over uneven ground.
The easiest way to se them up is to fit one rear wheel and arrange your jack so that it is slightly lower on that
side. The wheel and axle will tend to 'fall out' so that when the opposite side is set up you will know that the end
float you have is true. Remove the axle shaft and fit the new seal. It is a bit of a pain but it will eliminate
damage to the new seal by removal of the shaft several times.

DavidP, South Wales

The grease in mine was yellow color. I just thought it was old and had water in it at time to time. LOL

If this is of assistance great. If not, welllllll have great day.
Bob..

What a way to wake up from a nice 14 hour nap.
What a can a worms!!
I know I fixed one or 2 axles seals over the years, and I know I didn't go thru all of that. One on a 30, one on the 35, which is now on a 202, a long story...
I know the bearing race would be a bugger, but that is in the hub right? I never mess with races unless they are scored- but just the seals? I thought I just needed small pry bars?... but then again... I probably wasn't awake at the time I did it...
I usually take pictures of jobs like that, but most old ones in the computer are gone, but I might find them on a disc, if I knew when to look- seems like 2012? I'll take another nap and try to remember when it was.... did I post them on here? They'd be in 'archives'???

Be nice to have all the tools that is being used. Most farmers had hammer, bigger hammer, screw driver and pliers. LOL Thanks

You didn't have a crow bar? You musta been poor folks. We were rich Yankees, we had 2 crow bars... well, my momma jumped out of the car to pick up one in the middle of the road, so maybe just lucky Yankees...