4010 seat shakes..raddle. ..rolls

My 4010 seat wobbles from side to side. Checked
and could not find anything broke. What could
be causing this.

The bushings are worn out, probably has never been re-built...50 years of rocking around wears them out..

Where are the bushings located? I appreciate your help... I am no expert... just my first project.

There are several bushings involved and some if they wear through the bracket can be pricy,, and I'll bet yours are worn through, Darn it, they can be ornery to re-build if it's your first time, I will post some pictures of it..Brackets #18,#28, bushing #'s25,24,16, and shock and spring #14,10 for a start, I rebuild them here if you want to remove the cushion and send it to me, you can unbolt it and roll the upper cushion frame off ..leaving what you see in the picture..

What kind of cost... to have you rebuild? And where are you located?

About $150 plus parts and the parts are an un-known, I could work you up an est. on the parts latter,, I'm in Central Ohio

Ok... I go to Columbus from time to time. Could drop off. Yes ..a parts estm. would be great.

I'm 45 miles South east of Columbus, here is a est on parts
Total Price* Hold
Delete
AR31977 Link - LINK,SEAT SUSPENSION,WITH BUSHING ADD 44.16 USD 88.32 USD
R51648 Washer - BUSHING ADD 8.16 USD 65.28 USD
R26880 Nut - NUT, SPECIAL ADD 3.73 USD 14.92 USD
RE62234 Shock Absorber - SHOCK ABSORBER, SEAT ADD 118.77 USD 118.77 USD
R125989 Washer - WASHER, RETAINER ADD 11.04 USD 11.04 USD
R26877 Spring - SPRING ADD 32.72 USD 32.72 USD
R26832 Bushing - BUSHING,RUBBER ADD 6.25 USD 25.00 USD
R26436 Roller - ROLLER,SEAT RAIL ADD 2.66 USD 10.64 USD
Parts are currently not in stock at this dealer.
Ordering preferences are on the "Availability" page. *Subtotal 366.69 USD
*Total 366.69 USD

I am sure Tim could make it like new.I would probably find a good one off a salvage tractor and make it an easier process.Its funny you see some tractors with little wear for their age and some wore out at 5000 hours.Operator size makes a difference.I have seen some aftermarket suspension kits that some people really like and ride better but just aren't original.The factory JD suspension as you can see by the diagram has a lot of parts and wear points.Rollers are the first to wear then all the rest follows.

Yes Larry ,it can cost a bit to re-do them but every one I have done the customer says he didn't know why he waited so long to have it done. When they are worn bad they tilt forward and the seat "bottoms" out on every little bump, which tires you out quick and kinda packs your a$$ up around your ears..the price varys on the repair,this est has the linkage arms figured in but not the upper frame, if the holes are worn badly the new bushings won't work out in them, I have built the holes up with weld and repaired them but it takes a lot of time to do. I have been thinking about making a holding fixture and getting a few from a salvage yard to get an exchange program going on for a quicker turn around. With more people starting to re-store new Gen's a whole new area could open up to supply re-man components for them, to go along with the Hydraulic components that I am already doing...

I have rebuilt a few of these myself. It is amazing every time I get a tractor to restore, how terrible the seat suspension is. Aside from the worn bushings, many of them are so rusted and siezed up that they no longer retract or adjust properly. I too have taken a few to a machine shop to have holes filled and re-drilled because they have gone so long that the bushings wear and egg out the holes in the the arms. Like Tim mentioned
the shock absorber plays a huge role in cushioning the ride. Not only on the down swing, but it slows the up-swing motion too, which stops the bucking action. I have only seen 1 or 2 absorbers that were still in good shape after 40 years. In other words, they almost always need replaced. Yes the cost of that unit is hard to swallow, but it is worth it. Steiner actually carries a complete shock/spring unit that is ready to install and that entire unit is cheaper than deere's shock alone. So that is route I go now and then I don't have to mess with the spring under tension. Last time I tried to remove the spring from around the shock, I about broke my knee.

Once I have all the adjustments freed up (most times requires a torch) I put never-sieze on weight adjusting bolt and the rod for the slider on the height adjuster. I also put some on the ears where the plastic rollers go, which makes the seat retract really nice. If this is a tractor I am restoring, then all those parts are blasted and painted first and then once re-assembled so it looks like a new seat assembly right off the line. Hook the cable back up and set the retract tension. These seats do work really nice when kept in good working order. Much easier on your back too.

I have rebuilt a few of these myself. It is amazing every time I get a tractor to restore, how terrible the seat suspension is. Aside from the worn bushings, many of them are so rusted and siezed up that they no longer retract or adjust properly. I too have taken a few to a machine shop to have holes filled and re-drilled because they have gone so long that the bushings wear and egg out the holes in the the arms. Like Tim mentioned
the shock absorber plays a huge role in cushioning the ride. Not only on the down swing, but it slows the up-swing motion too, which stops the bucking action. I have only seen 1 or 2 absorbers that were still in good shape after 40 years. In other words, they almost always need replaced. Yes the cost of that unit is hard to swallow, but it is worth it. Steiner actually carries a complete shock/spring unit that is ready to install and that entire unit is cheaper than deere's shock alone. So that is route I go now and then I don't have to mess with the spring under tension. Last time I tried to remove the spring from around the shock, I about broke my knee.
Once I have all the adjustments freed up (most times requires a torch) I put never-sieze on weight adjusting bolt and the rod for the slider on the height adjuster. I also put some on the ears where the plastic rollers go, which makes the seat retract really nice. If this is a tractor I am restoring, then all those parts are blasted and painted first and then once re-assembled so it looks like a new seat assembly right off the line. Hook the cable back up and set the retract tension. These seats do work really nice when kept in good working order. Much easier on your back too.

I have seen some after market seats complete for $550. It is always costly. Tim, I will need to know how to contact you when ready... first up is new clutch. It came with loader.. selling it .. to pay for clutch repair

We've rebuilt quite a few of those seats and A&I carries most of the pieces needed to rebuild it.